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How do I test the Glow Plug Controller?

cucvrus

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That is a tough question. So many possibilities. i would recommend getting into the notes here and checking ovr everything from top to bottom of the glow plug system. Have you checked the glow plugs them self? I mean remove them if you have to but you must make sure they are not burnt out. They will not even activate the system if the are burnt out.
 

The Swamphare

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I did replace the glow plugs, this morning but they're not cycling. I don't know how to test the controller card, or the glow plug relay...
 

doghead

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You test everything except the controller card. All covered in the -20tm.

Is your temp sensor connected?

Has your glow plug system ever functioned?
 

cucvrus

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I hear you. But I don't even know where to start to tell you. Test I never knew how to test a circuit card. It either worked or it didn't. I guess I tested it by changing it. I guess you have to get to reading the diagnostic section. I can't help from this point. It would take forever. One thing. Is the 20 amp engine controller fuse good? Check all your fuses in the fuse box. Over on the left side about mid way up a 20 amp. Check it out. Wish I could point you in the right direction but it could be a multitude of things.
 

The Swamphare

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I was an 11B until I was an NCO. By the time I was in a unit with vehicles/motor pool, I didn't always make it to motor stables, like I should. Now I'm paying for my lack of vision...
 

Tinstar

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Follow the Troubleshooting in the TM.
It will help you find the issue.

Do you have a Digital Multimeter?
 

The Swamphare

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I do have a multimeter. I downloaded the TMs. Does the 1009 have a glow plug controller card? On an unrelated note, does it damage the vehicle to drive with the lockout hubs engaged, when not in 4 wheel drive?
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
Leaving the hubs locked in adds excessive wear on front differential, front u-joints (axles and propeller shaft), and most likely some wear in the transfer case since that transfer wasn't designed for full-time 4x4 (even if not put in 4x4 in transfer case. I used to have a civy full-time 4x4 square body Chevy and the front parts wore fast and gobbled gasoline. Probably best to unlock hubs.

The '09 has to have the controller card as well being it is the same engine. Definitely want to dig into the TM. There are also threads on this subject that are very helpful and can be found using the search bar.
 

The Swamphare

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Leaving the hubs locked in adds excessive wear on front differential, front u-joints (axles and propeller shaft), and most likely some wear in the transfer case since that transfer wasn't designed for full-time 4x4 (even if not put in 4x4 in transfer case. I used to have a civy full-time 4x4 square body Chevy and the front parts wore fast and gobbled gasoline. Probably best to unlock hubs.

The '09 has to have the controller card as well being it is the same engine. Definitely want to dig into the TM. There are also threads on this subject that are very helpful and can be found using the search bar.
Thank you.
 

Tinstar

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A quality DMM (Digital Multimeter) is a must have item for any CUCV/MV owner.

Unlock hubs as already mentioned.

The GP card should be to the right of the accelerator pedal somewhere up and behind dash.
The GP card holder is about the size of a pack of cigarettes.

A good cleaning of the contacts and a thin film of NO-OX-ID electrical grease works wonders.
Of course the card has to be working......
 

The Swamphare

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Hey, thanks Tinstar! There seems to be a number of folks that advocate a bypass operation with a button installation... What are your thoughts?
 

Tinstar

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Hey, thanks Tinstar! There seems to be a number of folks that advocate a bypass operation with a button installation... What are your thoughts?

I personally would not.
A properly maintained stock system works great as is.
A lot have had success with it.
But I like the stock setup.
No need to fix what's not broken.
That way the TMs still apply and you will get more help here on SS.

Mine starts right up even when it's 3 degrees out side.

Plus your truck will retain more value leaving it stock.
For the purists like me anyway......
 

The Swamphare

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Well, it may be that the newly installed glow plugs just needed a break-in period. I allowed the truck to sit for two hours, in 20 degrees, without plugging in the block heater; it started though I did not hear the relay cycle. I repeated the exercise again, after a ninety minute cold interval. It started... Am I just wishfully thinking?
 

cucvrus

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Are you checking if voltage is passing thru the firewall mounted relay and to the glow plugs? It is just that simple. Use a test lamp or a voltage meter. Report back.
 

cucvrus

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I would say watch the voltmeter. that will tell a lot. Sometimes I watch the voltmeter over the wait light. It will still be getting hot after the wait light goes out. I know its supposed to. But it does help sometimes. Even when the wait light does not come on after it is a bit warm. You can see the volt meter leaning left to show glow plug activity. I don't hear clunking either. Led Zepplin drowns out the clunking with a whole lotta love. :)
 
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