how to turn up fuel...in pictures?

chuck-10

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I figured out how to turn my fuel up with no fdc.It ran real good untill I took off my d turbo and installed a c turbo.The pyro goes up to 1050 max at 9 psi of boost.After I installed the turbo I lost alot off power.Should I play with the fuel again?
 

houdel

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C turbos do not seem to give as much boost as a D. From what I have read, most people report 10-12 psi max with a C versus 12-14 with a D. Mine only puts out about 10 psi & 1200F temp, although some C owners report higher boost. A max pyro of 1200F on a long uphill climb seems to be the recommended limit, so you have a little room to play with the fuel.
 
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Jesse6325

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Ok, This might be a stupid question, But why tap for the pyrometers before the turbo?
On the over the road trucks I drove the pyrometer was installed just after the turbo.
Admittedly only one of them was an old mecanically fueld engine, The rest were the newere electronic engines.
 

Kohburn

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more accurate temperature before the turbo - the temperature changes after the turbo and it is the pre turbo temperature that is the best indicator.
 

crazywelder72

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i figured it was something like that. I haven't had mine much out of the driveway yet as i just got it and been working the bugs out. I get a nice puff when i tap the peddle but i don't think i want it blowing smoke like a old locomotive. i am pushing my luck with this beast in my urban prius filled area. i also think Massachusetts has some law about any visible smoke but that may apply to normal vehicles.
 

crazywelder72

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This is my 5th time reading this thread form beginning to end and I have a few questions.

(1) If adding one pyro, What is the best cylinder to tap into ?

(2) If adding a second, where should that go?

(3) I just bypassed the FDC today and the truck will not hold idle under 1000 rpm unless I pull out the manual throttle 4 clicks. Is this a droop screw issue or a fuel pressure issue?

(4) recommendations for boost gauge?

(5) It don't think it matters but how do i tell what kind of turbo I have?
 

thehaas

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some of the later pumps when rebuilt eliminate fuel compensator .i just replaced my pump and new one had none.when i took truck apart i checked timing marks and they were off .that will make truck slow ,new pump truck is way quicker starts faster idle smoother even cold .i made video on you tube under bodyshop18336
 

SMOKEWAGON66

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So does anyone here have any baseline EGT readings for a non turned up motor? I turned up my fuel a while back, and recently installed and EGT and boost gauge, which I should have done before hand, but I didnt think about it. Yesterday I drove the deuce to work and coming back up the hill, the EGT hit about 1100 deg before having to downshift to 4th at the steepest part of the hill. Is that high for an LDT? Or is that around normal? If anyone can tell me what their average is for a stock setting on an FDC would be greatly appreciated.
 

barefootin

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SMOKEWAGON66, I can only answer from what I've read over the years.... Hopefully an expert will chime in here. Melting time is 1300F and others have stated 1150F sustained is a caution point. This also depends on where you are tapped in for your pyro (many opinions on that topic as well). Personally, I'm tapped in on the manifold runner at cylinder 2 and 5. Regardless, pre-turbo is going to be more accurate (only my opinion). I have not turned up my fuel, have light smoke, but it makes good power. I top out at 940-970F on the pyro's. I've attached a link below with some good reading. As a side note, it's easier to use a search engine on this topic and link back to threads on this site.


http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-...301-lds-465-1a-exhaust-gas-temp-concerns.html
 

crazywelder72

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I haven't touched my fuel psi because i dont have pyro's yet.

After seeing that pic i was wondering if turning up the Pressure would melt all 6 pistons or would one failed be more likely due to a combination of things like a bad injector also?
 

Floridianson

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If you don't want to waist fuel than get a boost and pyro keep 1200* and under and readjust droop screw if you have one. Your fuel might be to high if the main was brought up and the droop not lowered.
 

Clay James

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It could have been an injector that contributed also. The previous owner said when he got it it was turned up way too high. Luckily it's just a cheap project engine. There was piston slag all around the valves and down the exhaust ports. Really putted up the valves and seats which have to be replaced. The weird part is some of the pistons were fine and didn't show any signs of melting.
 

ICAT

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quick question and it may have been answered but I couldn't find it. When adjusting fuel, should the adjustment be made with straight diesel only or does it matter.
 

frank8003

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Thats all i want is a little low end power. I've driven my father's Deuces and laugh that they have no power (compared to a typical newer diesel truck) but mine has about half the power of his! I need to sell this truck soon, so i just want to make sure its tuned right. It was a LOOONG trip home from Kentucky when I would have to drop to 4th and even 3rd gear for even mild hills. I came over Killington in VT in 2nd gear IIRC. Its better after yesterday's adjustments, but still not right.

Jim
Please do engine compression checks before further action.
 
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