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hubs fit now- results of install

Monster Man

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dang! sourced some 3 1/2" ID pipe, got her cut, cut out the old centers of the hubs, tacked on the new pieces, made some end plates, figured I'd better fit it up before welding and the dang things are just a tad too small! It clears the bearing nut no prob, it's that little tab with the fold down edges that's hitting it <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_angry.gif" alt="Angry">

looks like 4" ID would be best.

here's what I'll try first:
<img src="http://www.buschandbusch.com/flange.gif" border="0">

since the pipe wall is so thick, it's eating up clearance, I'll weld in an intermediate spacer of strap around the base, which will give me another 1/2" inside clearnace. Will keep you posted.

I'll draw up some nice diagrams of exactly how much clearance you need, and whatnot so others can save a lot of hassle. Otherwise don't be cheap like I am and just torch your stock flanges!
 

Monster Man

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Originally posted by Recovry4x4

Lance, why not try a piece of exhaust pipe? Its thin and easy to weld!
<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_clown.gif" alt="Clown">thin and easy to weld are two things I don't associate with each other! <img src="emoticons/icon_smilie_bitchin.gif" alt="Bitchin">

All my training is in SMAW, so whenever I do something I go for the thickest materials available for the rather large amounts of filler metal and amps I run through it! I never got good at thin metals, the thinnest I've done is the gas tank on our t-bucket and that was 3/32" with stick- not an easy task.
Don't get me wrong, if I blow a hole in thin metal which I frequently do, I can patch it up but I prefer not to at all <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_rotfl.gif" alt="ROTFL">
I have a Lincoln Square Wave TIG Pro, but it's used exclusively for DC+ stick at the moment- I do intend to learn TIG though, soon.
But just be sure not to suggest upgrading from SMAW, there's nothing wrong with it!
 

Desert Rat

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MM;
TIG is a Godsend! Once you try it you'll never work with anything else! I learned Tig when I was 14 at my dad's shop in Maine. I made some rather interesting mods to my 8 hp Briggs and Stratton go-cart in those days....... But I loved working with the TIG to make it all happen. I just don't want to know how much the bill was for all that metal......
 

Monster Man

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well, I whipped them up this weekend and they look like my drawing.

BUT, I really noticed no difference at all? <img src="emoticons/icon_smilie_bitchin.gif" alt="Bitchin">

all that time and effort and material and $$$ filler rod and I noticed no drop in RPM at any given speed, no difference in acceleration, no difference in turning effort, no difference in safe top speed- haven't checked mileage yet.

About the only difference I might have noticed was that it seemed to want to slow down less for me, those axles must have been providing some drag and helping me stop.

In all honesty, I think I'll put the stock flanges back on, swap on my airshift and be done with it.

Did I do something wrong? I couldn't of, I'm just surprised I noticed no difference, I was expecting it to run quiter and smoother. I know when I have the hubs on my measley K10 locked it REALLY drags the truck and makes lots of noise. I just couldn't tell they were unlocked <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_shrug.gif" alt="Shrug">
 

Recovry4x4

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Well I can honestly say that the only time you will notice a drop in rpm is when there is a proportionate drop in speed. I've never really noticed a big difference but I know that it costs something to turn that front diff assy.
 

Monster Man

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well, that's encouraging- maybe I'll keep them on and do a MPG check

catch you later <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_dork.gif" alt="Dork">
 

Monster Man

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that's what I modeled mine after- well, orginally I used only a 2 inch pipe to clear the axle, I didn't know about the bearing nut cause I made them before I had the truck :( Anyhow, they're done now using mostly scrap metal and they don look TOO bad <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_approve.gif" alt="Approve">
 
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