I Broke Steering Parts!!!

[CCATLETT1984]

I Broke Steering parts!!!

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Pics posted below

I sheared three of the four studs that hold my stock steering arm and the 2.5" block (came with the 6" lift from superlift) to the knuckle.

The studs are supposed to be grade 8, but I wasn't beating on the truck. Pulled out my buddies f250. I drove about 20miles home on the freeway.

Get home and turn the wheels to back into the driveway and hear a LOUD POP. When I turn the wheel the tires arent turning anymore, get out and see the steering arm held on by one stud.

I am wondering if the studs werent really grade 8. I am debating between going cross-over and just getting ARP studs. I dont really want to go cross-over yet, but if I am going to keep breaking the studs then I am going to have to.

What do you guys think?

 

[CCATLETT1984]

Here is a link to the cross- over kit I am thinking about buying.

http://www.northwestfab.com/dana60steeringarm.html

 

[acetomatoco]

return it all to stock configuration and it will last 100000 miles.. RAM

 

[73m819]

i can see why the studs broke, the extra 2 1/2 inches on those long studs, unless that block is dowaled there is nothing to keep the studs from trying to twrist no matter how tight thay are , that 2 1/2 makes a lot of leverage on those studs under a steering load, plus take into account the big tires, if the studs were not grade 8 thay most likely would have failed a longgggg time ago, if you go the cross over stile steering , you will be taking 1/2 the shear (twrist) from the studs, just my thought on this, good luck

 

[CCATLETT1984]

here are some pics of the carnage, as promised.

 

[OPCOM]

if the bolts were previously used, then they may have been stressed unduly by the tighening the second time as well as whatever was done with them on the ford. But I agree according to the images, the stresses on those bolts is unacceptable, you may wish to do as suggested and have dial pins installed, but that will take machining etc. Could you lower the steering arm-to-wheel joint to a normal position such as by using an arm the itself makes up the 2.5"? it might help. well i'm no expert but that block with 4 studs to do the job looks risky.

 

[Ambulancechser]

busted...

The short drag link on these gm's puts huge pressure on the studs when the front end is twisted and your trying to steer.the long studs (i have this same block on mine)are under really huge stress.the block is really only a bandaid for the crappy geometry that this particular style of steering arangement is known for.Even stock trucks used hard often suffer from frame cracks and lower tie rod failures,even shedding the entire steering box has been known to occure without warning.

Crosover is a higly recomended fix for the problem.I think that ram assist is the ultimate for a gm of this vintage running 38" plus tires,as this takes most of the pressure off the box and transfers it to the lower tie rod (which should be beefed as well).this is pricey however.

so that leaves crossover with a larger tie rod as the best bang for the buck.on a switch to crossover,the larger tie rod and a steering box brace are a must.the brace goes far to counteract the change in the direction of force on the frame,and the tie rod upgrades a known weak point at the same time.

try these guys WWW.offroaddesign.com

proven parts,and a lot of other goodies as well.one stop shopping.the prices might make you cringe from time to time,but imagine shedding your steering at freeway speed.Crossover is definitely on my list of must do mods.I have my 4 x 2 steering box already.IMHO,you'll (read both of us)just break again eventually...best take care of it as soon as it's practical.