Installed some used LED tails, lost my rear running/parking lights

[CanonNinja]

Well thats what I get for buying used... Installed a set of LED taillights, testing my hazards, worked, but one was much dimmer than the other. I verified the better one before I installed the dimmer one. I went to hit my parking lights to test, and I heard a quiet but noticeable whine/lazer noise coming from my push-button light switch... No tails now. Went to service lights... everything but the rear running lights came on. Swapped the bad LED for an incandescent, still got the noise when turning on Park or Service. Swapped both LEDs out for the originals, no noise from the switch, but no running/parking lights in the rear.


Yes, both LEDs were connected by number properly and grounded appropriately. Did I just fry my headlight switch with a bad LED?

 

[paulfarber]

LEDs by design use milli amps.. so I doubt that the LEDs themselves caused any problems.

You may have grounded something in the process, or miss matched something.

 

[CanonNinja]

everything was verified twice before testing, all wires were correct.

 

[CanonNinja]

either way, the LEDS are off the truck, and I have no rear running/parking lights... What do I need to check or is it to assume the headlight switch is done?

 

[CanonNinja]

this is a push-button switch that was working flawlessly for the last year. dont have another to test with, but I tried pulling the battery cable for about 20sec and tried again without the LED tail lights, and Im still without parking/running lights

 

[CanonNinja]

well I've narrowed it down to a wonky LED. I pulled everything off, and started back again. Got the taillights back, but no matter what I do, I cannot get the "bad" LED to flash properly, even when swapping side to side. Guess I'm going to be asking the seller for a refund on this light.

 

[Jones]

The LEDs still have some bugs in them so I'd try another LED taillight to see if it changes anything.

The early push button light switches would commit suicide and so some changes were made that improved them-- but didn't make them perfect.
One thing that's drilled into us is that the ground wire must be connected first; before a push button switch is even installed in the dash panel.

I think the way to make using one more dependable is to let the push button switch control Bosch (or similar) relays that in turn control a particular component or function.

I'm running one in the baby HEMTT but still carry a spare three-lever switch as a back-up.

 

[cranetruck]

I agree with Leonard and will add that "bench testing" does have its benefits.
Also, the push button light switch is an electronic device and like radios, should not be "ON" when the engine is cranked, so install an additional on/off switch for the bush button switch so that it can be effectively turned off when the engine is started....or go back to the original 3-lever switch , it will last a lifetime (human).

 

[paulfarber]

I know describing electrical issues can be a bit tough... but its even harder to help with the target is moving.
..

First you had NO lights, now they were on but dim, then only one was not blinking (hazard?)

1. "one was much dimmer than the other"
2. "No tails now."
3. "LEDS are off the truck, and I have no rear running/parking lights"
4. " I cannot get the "bad" LED to flash properly, "

The last issue noted does not agree with the previous statements.

I agree you should get a refund as they just 'didn't work' when bolted on... and LEDs are pretty simple .

 

[CanonNinja]

Well I had one LED light that works flawlessly, and then another that started causing issues. I'm almost positive one is shot, and just may not have been grounded properly.


But, I noticed this driving around that night. When on the brakes, I can see the one good light working fine, but then I noticed this.... Even tho LEDs should not be power-dependent, meaning they're either getting voltage and working, or they're not. Well, depending on how hard/far down I press on the brakes is directly related to how bright my brake lights are illuminated. I can press until I see the brake lights on, then if I keep pressing while coming to a stop, they get brighter as I push the pedal harder. Is this normal? Do I have a brake sensor that's acting up now?