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Installing back up lights on the Humvee

LouWon

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I decided to install back up lights on the Humvee
I got the switch that mounts on the shift assembly and did install it without removing the assembly.
Routed a wire to the back, I was able to buy the real 14 gauge from a supplier
Installed two Rigid lamps, they have two sizes to chose from, but I chose the smaller ones, they fit better.
They were easy to install, just used the template and had to remove a few rivets and cut the sheet metal below the lights with a cut off wheel on a grinder, you have to feel behind the light to check where to cut, that's why they are more on the inside.
They are flush mount, look good and the lighting is even better,even with the dirt they work well.
Plus no messing with an on/off switch

Back up lights 005.jpgBack up lights 004.jpgBack up lights 001.jpgBack up lights 002.jpgBack up lights 003.jpg
 

LouWon

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It's the switch that came on a M998 with the ambulance PKG
Looks like a safety neutral switch, about $50.00
It goes on the lower hole of the shift assembly, you can feel it trough the rubber cover
[FONT=&quot]M998 A1 HUMMER BACKUP LIGHT SWITCH
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[FONT=&quot]12338435, 5579050, 5930-01-212-3373
0.jpg[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]
[/FONT]​
 

LouWon

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Basically, I took power from the ignition switch, only when the key is in the ON position.
I did add a fuse closest to the ignition switch.
Then run the power to one side of the back up light switch, then to the lights, just follow the original wiring and tie wrap as needed
The Rigid light kit includes wires and relay if needed.
With the low amps being pulled by the lights , I just wired them direcltyhe shifter assembly.
It much better to add the back up light switch on the shift assembly , the back up lights work like on a normal car
 

LouWon

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You can feel the location with your finger, there is a bump on the rubber boot, use a razor blade to cut the hole for the switch, but don't cut it flush with the shift assembly, leave a rubber collar to cover the body of the switch
Once installed, install a tie wrap around the body of the switch to stop sand and mud from coming in
 

TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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I don't know if site vendors have this in stock but fleaBay has them.
 

rchalmers3

Half a mile from the Broad River
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Two lamps at 10 watts each, operating on 24 volts should be about 3.5 amps flowing through the switch, wiring it as you did.

Rick
 

papakb

Well-known member
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San Jose, Ca
When I installed the backup lights in my M996 ambulance I picked up power from the shifter legend lights figuring the wire was already there so I wouldn't have to run another one and the backup lights would be controlled by the OFF/DIM/BRIGHT switch on the master light control allowing me to leave them off if I wanted to (tactical). When I replaced the lamps with LEDs the DIM/BRIGHT made no difference because they drew such low power. They were always either OFF or BRIGHT.

You can spend $50 for the correct light switch or just use a neutral start switch or just go down to Kragen and buy a neutral start switch and add your own wires for about $15.

BTW P/E=I 20W / 24V = 0.833A
 
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McSpeed

Well-known member
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Palmer, AK
I've got those wires coming out of the boot now. Does that mean I have the switch already installed in the shifter?
 

JoeJrTheBarber

New member
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0
Location
Chicago, IL
I did the same thing to my 1988 M998.
I bought the same switch as the above but for whatever reason I already had one in my shifter ?
So I wired that to similar lights and bam we have backup lights.
Back1.jpgLift5.jpg
I also added a small (but super bright) light bar under the back bumper angled towards the street that comes on along with the two backup lights
when the truck is put into reverse (as well as the backup camera too). I did this on a old lifted Jeep Grand Wagoneer I had and I cant tell you how
easier it makes parking these trucks at night when you can actually see.
Should of been a AM General factory option !
RearLight1.jpgRearLight2.jpg
 
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