• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Intermittently running poorly and wait light is now stuck on two days after

Volvo740turbo

New member
281
0
0
Location
St.louis missouri
My truck has an intermittent running issue where it seems like it is pushing air and after two days my weight light is stuck on and the voltage on my digital gauge reads less than normal but still above 24 volts:evil:
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,289
1,775
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
What model truck?
Is the glow plug system stock or modified?
What exactly is the DMM reading?
"less than normal" isn't helpful.

What does intermittent running mean?
Running rough and then smooth or engine sometimes quits and then starts?
 

Volvo740turbo

New member
281
0
0
Location
St.louis missouri
What model truck?
Is the glow plug system stock or modified?
What exactly is the DMM reading?
"less than normal" isn't helpful.

What does intermittent running mean?
Running rough and then smooth or engine sometimes quits and then starts?
I have a manual glow plug switch relay and a spin on fuel filter intermittently means intermittently it will go from running excellent to sound like it's pushing air to stalling to run an excellent again now my weight light is stuck on and the voltage is a couple of volts less than what it usually sees
 

Volvo740turbo

New member
281
0
0
Location
St.louis missouri
I arrived back at the truck today after 2 hours of sleep....pulled the drivers alt off and had it tested...it showed good so I reinstalled it and just pulled the gp card out I was thinking even with the manual switch it may have been causing some issues,,, volts came back slowly so I drove to get the batteries tested which turned out within spec so pretty much all I did was remove the card and it seems to be ok for now....
My gen light goes off on its own which it's never done before with out a bump to the throttle so I don't k ow if that's good or bad at this point....drive 15 miles home no issue....so I dunno...can the card cause issues even if bypassed for the switch?
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,259
1,769
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Sounds like you have several problems. Diesels are very simple. If they have oil in the pan, just add air and fuel. Then spin to around 150 rpm to make run. As long as the air and fuel flow, they will continue to run.

So, make sure you have a clean air filter. Clean fuel filter with no air leaks. Along with no obstructions in your fuel return system. Once started and warmed up, a 6.2 normally doesn't do anything but just run.

I was hesitant to reply to this because you gave such a vague description of the issues and exactly what you have. A spin on fuel filter does not mean the filter is clean or the lines are air tight. Nothing mechanical last forever or is failure proof.

However, if you mean lugging when you said intermittently. Then maybe your only problem is a messed up glow plug system. Is your system still 24 volts or has the resistor been bypassed so it is just a 12 volt system? Having both alternators get hit with that load will cause the engine to idle down some or feel like it is low on power when driving.

How is the manual glow glow plug button hooked up? Does it bypass the stock system or parallel it? We really need to know that to help you more.
 

Volvo740turbo

New member
281
0
0
Location
St.louis missouri
The glow plugs are in a manual switch with the card bypass the resistor had already been converted to 12 volts to glow plug relay is new the truck runs perfect 90% of the time which kind of tells me that both fuel pump and injection pump are working correctly I'm thinking more along the lines of crud in the filter or possibly in the gas tank.... I'm under the impression if air were in the lines that it would not be intermittent and it would be a constant failure on the fuel system side of things?
 

Volvo740turbo

New member
281
0
0
Location
St.louis missouri
Sounds like you have several problems. Diesels are very simple. If they have oil in the pan, just add air and fuel. Then spin to around 150 rpm to make run. As long as the air and fuel flow, they will continue to run.

So, make sure you have a clean air filter. Clean fuel filter with no air leaks. Along with no obstructions in your fuel return system. Once started and warmed up, a 6.2 normally doesn't do anything but just run.

I was hesitant to reply to this because you gave such a vague description of the issues and exactly what you have. A spin on fuel filter does not mean the filter is clean or the lines are air tight. Nothing mechanical last forever or is failure proof.

However, if you mean lugging when you said intermittently. Then maybe your only problem is a messed up glow plug system. Is your system still 24 volts or has the resistor been bypassed so it is just a 12 volt system? Having both alternators get hit with that load will cause the engine to idle down some or feel like it is low on power when driving.

How is the manual glow glow plug button hooked up? Does it bypass the stock system or parallel it? We really need to know that to help you more.
Truck just went 8 hours no issues...volts are 29.2 at speed and above 28 at idle...if this helps, it just hit a couple flat spots .....
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,259
1,769
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Air on the suction side of the lift pump would be where it just doesn't run. Air between the lift pump and IP is where it gets tricky. Since air molecules are smaller than diesel molecules. You can't see a small leak that lets air in. Most people have issues with this kind of leak if they park nose up. The engine will start, run for 5-10 seconds, surge faster and then die. 30-40 seconds of cranking will be required to get things primed again and all will be well until the next random time it happens again on cold start up.

Have you pulled the return line fitting from the IP? Standing at the bumper there is a black hose with a red squeeze clamp on the top of the IP running right at you. Remove the hose and use a 9/16" socket to pull the fitting. Look inside the fitting. There should be a glass ball with a spring behind it. You should be able to see through it. If there is any little black pieces in there, your IP is about to die. If the glass ball is gone, someone else already found something in there and knocked it out so the truck would continue to run for a while.

A general knowledge tidbit here. If the truck will not turn off with the key some day. Just use a pair of pliers to squeeze that black return line. The pressure build up will kill the engine without any harm to the engine.

If your glass ball is there and clean. Then, check out the return line all the way to the fuel tank. Make sure it isn't kinked or something somewhere. You can remove the fuel cap and glow very low pressure air through the line, 5-10 psi, with someone listening near the tank, not face in the fill cap.

One of my trucks had a restriction in that line. It blew the rear injector return caps off. I thought it was a return cap clamp problem. The engine would lug a little and when it started running better, I would know when I was blowing diesel all over the place and the cap was gone. I finally figured out it was the return line pinched near the fuel tank.
 
Top