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Is it worthwhile to have a spare regulator as a backup for the 60 amp alternator

scootertrs

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My deuce Fire truck would start well and showed borderline green, but during a night response to a fire with all of the spots running as well as the emergency lights, even at a high idle, they got dimmer and dimmer until my battery voltage was under 18 Volts. Truck kept running... gotta love a deuce and the mechanical fuel shutoff... if it had been a 5 ton, I am afraid I would have been dead in the middle of the ordeal. Afterwards, I took the alternator off and while looking inside, the alternator looked like someone had placed an IED inside the regulator back.

I am curious though, is it worthwhile to have a spare regulator backup for an alternator or usually when the alternator goes south, all of it needs rebuilding. I am going to try posting as a new thread to see if it merits having a spare regulator. In other words, if I had carried a spare regulator back for my alternator that night, how likely is it that I would have been able to replace it and keep on working. Same goes for fixing a core, etc. I don't have a test bench to test alternators, nor do I have the knowledge... Best I can do is... burned armature ... no good... blown diode... no good... noisy bearing... no good... etc. etc. etc. Oh, and I can check voltage with a voltmeter.
Thanks
 

cranetruck

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The alternator will need to come off for the regulator replacement, so I'd say if you want to carry a spare, bring a complete and tested alternator.
Once off the truck, the bad regulator can rather easily be replaced with a new one...
 

Bill W

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I changed out the voltage regulator on my 60amp and its been running fine since., I 've heard/read that it ( VR ) fails the most ( as compared to bearings or armature ). but as mentioned better to carry a complete alt
 

cranetruck

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When a regulator fails, be concerned about your cable connections to the battery. If they are loose and break the continuity while charging (=engine running), a so called load dump is generated, which can easily ruin the regulator components and other electronics hooked up and turned on at the time. That's one reason for this decal (image below), but some things can't normally be disconnected, such as the regulator and the new digital light switch.
Edit: Added image of typical load dump (12v system shown). For a 24 volt system voltage spike(s) will reach 100 or more volts.
 

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scootertrs

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miami/florida
I just found out about the existence of 100 ampers. I should have known, but I was doing the math and added up all my "consumers" and they do not add up to 50 amps... so I should be OK... I guess... 4 50 (200W) W spots, 2 50(100W) watt wig wags, 2 50(100W) watt high beams, 2 50(100W) watt bulbs in bubble gum machine, 10 led strobes at 2 amps each (50W), 100W electronic siren, 100W mechanical siren, 2 100W (200W) scene lights = 950 or 1000W at 24V = 42 amps approx... still have a margin (or so I think) or am I too close?

What does a 100W alternator run-moneywise? May be better to be judicious in power consumption... in other words, scene lights and spots will probably never be running when bubble gum, strobes and sirens are going...

Why dont you upgrade to a 100 amp genny? Same mount, same wiring, but 40 more amps.
 

willy

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well having a spare reg. means you can fix it in the field that is if the reg goes out. with normal wear you should also need brushes at least dress them up
Now you are talking about a rebuilt reg so 6 off and one, and half dozen of a other.
Take your pick i have a spare reg in my spare parts box and new brushes with holder and bearing.
But than that is me.
Willy:)
 

emmado22

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I will post it tomorrow. It had a big squareish regulator on it, and no I'm not talking about the dual voltage ones either.
 
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FASTNOVA

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That does not look like it would bolt in to the deuce, by the diagram you would need an external regulator and some other cables.
 
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