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is there any power steering options for 2.5 other than ....

sweetk30

Member
315
6
18
Location
horseheads,ny 14845
i am planing to build a 4x4 bobed duece soon. and want real power steering that will turn big tires like 53" .

air-o-matic sounds kind of o.k. but wimpy.

in my state you are required to keep some kind of mechanic linkage from wheel to wheel. so full hydro wont work also as i plan on driving on the streets to and from play spots or work.

thanks for any info. i have looked and not found to much on this.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,804
113
Location
GA Mountains
RE: is there any power steering options for 2.5 other than .

I'd do a search on that topic, its been covered pretty well. M35-tom, devliman96 and Gerhard down in S America have all done the swap and posted pics.
 

tsmall07

New member
542
4
0
Location
Springfield, VA
RE: is there any power steering options for 2.5 other than .

Redneck Ram might be worth lookin into. I don't know if they make a system that can be adapted to the deuce.
 

Trango

Member
736
22
18
Location
Boulder, CO
RE: is there any power steering options for 2.5 other than .

Remember, you can always outboard your steering if you can cut and weld a ujoint yoke onto the existing steering tube(s), which gives you much better choices of boxes. I have posted plenty of times on this and I'd also be happy to take crappy cell phone pics and email them to you if you want pics of my setup (which I may have already taken and posted, not sure).
 

HeadWizard

New member
729
2
0
Location
Chantilly, VA
Air o matic seems to work fine with my 16.00 -20 XL's (52's).

Not as smooth as pure hydraulic, much easier to bolt on. No fabrication necessary.
 

DanMartin

New member
1,276
16
0
Location
Hillsboro, Oregon (USA)
I'm doing the M-35Tom approach on mine. Use a 5-ton steering column/shaft...it has the u-joint built in (plus a smaller wheel). Get the hydro pump off of a multi-fuel 5-ton, a reservoir (got mine off of a cummins powered 900 series), a Saginaw 710 box, some plumbing, welding (frame reinforcements), drilling, and mild cutting (radiator shroud, fender well panel), modify the drag link to fit, bend the pittman arm off of the 710 a bit, make up the intermediate shaft for the steering, and you're in.

Oh..and you will need the upper and lower column mounts from the 5 ton you got the column from (one mount under the dash, one on the firewall). Adapt to fit (drilling, etc).

See this thread for pics and ideas:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&p=149763

Hope that helps...
 

jimk

In Memorial
In Memorial
1,046
45
48
Location
Syracuse, New York
The v-100 uses a Ross system on the 'M35A2 type' front axle. It has some similarity to the 5T Ross system. The cylinder is shorter providing 4 inches of stroke (instead of 5T's eight inches). The movable end is mounted above the drag link with a 1-1/2" ball stud. The fixed end is hull mounted using a std tapered 5T ball stud( instead of the 5T's spring hanger mount). There is a control valve on the steering box. Various pumps were used. There is an auto type pump (B Block Chrysler) or an Eaton hydraulic pump. I can post pics of Eaton type pump on the engine, or a shortened 5T cylinder, if anyone is interested. JimK

p.s. the system uses 3-1/2 inches of the 4 inch stroke
 

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