Just bought a M1009

[NVMessner]

You fellas know anybody who wants to sell an m1008 or m1009 in CA nowish?

 

[NVMessner]

May pick this up tomorrow. Currently the odometer stop around 5-8k ago. The batteries are dead, said he jumped it and drove around for 20 mins no problem and something with the rear diff. He put a 2wd diff on....not sure. Those are the cons

 

[joshuak]

Greetings NVMessner, IMHO for $5500 there seems to be an awful lot of yellow crimp on connectors on the engine wiring harness. With him having to jump it, there may be a can of electrical gremlins hiding, added to the mechanical issues you mentioned. I may be mistaken and its a great rig, but I would keep looking.

You fellas know anybody who wants to sell an m1008 or m1009 in CA nowish?

Although, with that stipulation I usually end up paying more than what an item is worth anyway.

 

[richingalveston]

may be priced high but looks rust free and that brings a premium.

if he can jump it, most likely it has been converted to 12V. Unless he has another military vehicle

From the picks under the hood I would guess it is 12V with the resistor bypassed.

Everything can be fixed, If he can make it run and you can drive it and like it,
I will repeat, rust free is worth the premium.

rich

 

[NVMessner]

I got him down to 4k. I hate body work, but I enjoy work in on everything else. I appreciate the input. I believe he said it was still 24v.

 

[NVMessner]

So I picked up the 1009 and its got a good leak that is dropping off the oil filter. The filter looks new...I tried to tighten it but I didn't get anything. Granted it was running and hot and covered in oil. I'm not sure if it's the filter oring maybe or the rear main dropping off. Its not bad when it's off, but at idle it's a steady drip. I love this rig though. Also a button taped below the steering column...glow plug? He said block heater....I don't see a plug anywhere for one. Anyways I'm my way home adding oil every now and then.

 

[NovacaineFix]

Check the cooler lines that come off the block, they are located right above the filter housing. The fittings that go into the block are pipe thread, but over time they tend to work themselves loose. The cooler line nut also tends to work loose or could also have a bad O-ring.

The only thing above that that could leak oil is the valve cover.
The cooler lines are no longer made, so you can either by-pass them or have a hose place make a set for you, typically runs less than $100 if you take the line off and take them to the shop. The inner one is a bit tricky to get back in since it wraps around the backside of the exhaust manifold.

 

[NVMessner]

Awesome! I'll check that tomorrow. I plan on doin a rear main I just can't imagine it's this much oil.

 

[NovacaineFix]

Mine leaked like you wouldn't believe.

I haven't yet had a new set made, I went the cheaper route for the time being and bought high pressure oil resistant hose and cut the old factory hose off. Doing this, you'll have to use good hose clamps, but for me, it's just temporary.

You can see mine before I replaced those lines, just look under the master cylinder area when I had my fender off.

 

[NVMessner]

You're main seal leaked or the hoses leaked?

 

[richingalveston]

just curious to what hose is not made anymore? I replaced the rubber oil cooler lines last year on my truck and was able to buy them from Oriely's they were a perfect fit.

If you are talking about the metal lines then yes, they are not made anymore and you have to get a takeout or change to a hose.

Just trying to clarify, I bought hoses within the last 12 months. The hoses will fail quickly if you do not have the clamp that holds them to the inner fender. The clamp holds them still so they do not get a hole rubbed in them.

just trying to clarify what is not available any more.

 

[usabamaman]

Isn't the oil pressure sending unit located directly above the oil filter on top of the engine block? Could that be the source of your oil leak?

 

[NVMessner]

Thanks to whoever changed the title I appreciate it. When the rain clears I'm going to look at the above mentioned possibilities. I had to add 3 quarts during the 220 mile drive.

 

[cucvrus]

Isn't the oil pressure sending unit located directly above the oil filter on top of the engine block? Could that be the source of your oil leak?

The oil pressure sending unit is located on top left of the block back against the firewall. It has a brass angle adapter into the block. I had one leak already. Also check the vacuum pump I had one of them leak into the vacuum diaphragm itself and leak oil into the valley. I changed the rear main seal for the customer at his request and it ended up being a $150. vacuum pump that was bad. Not the base of the vacuum pump. The vacuum pump itself was leaking oil that traveled up the shaft and leaked out. Never seen that oil leak again at that same place.

 

[NovacaineFix]

Yes the oil pressure sending unit and the vacuum pump are located very top and top left of the engine and yes I guess they could leak enough to start dripping by the oil filter, but most likely they would start to drip down the back side of the bell housing. Not saying it's impossible, but more likely trom where he was mentioning the area of the to be the oil cooler lines and/or fittings.
Definitely a good idea to check all the area since once you get and oil leak, it looks like everything is leaking when it gets slung around.

As for the parts that aren't made anymore, I never tried O'Rielys for the rubber parts of the oil cooler lines, I'll have to check there, but yes the metal lines are no beuno

 

[cucvrus]

3 qts of oil is a conciderable amount of oil to be leaking in 220 miles. That should be easy to find. I am now on the rear main seal being part of the issue also. Anything is possible at this date.

 

[NVMessner]

It was the oil filter...The rear main is leaking, but not that bad.

 

[NVMessner]

They aren't rope seals are they?

 

[cucvrus]

Yes they are rope seals. I changed many. I never seen a red neoprene seal leak. Only when I put one of my first ones in.I removed this rope seal from my Mule last summer. This rope seal I removed from Terminus M1009 3 weeks ago. New seal. Rope seal is still available for you if you want to restore to exact standards. New seal in place. Replace the rear main cap and torque to specs. Easily done in one afternoon. Unless like me you must clean,sand and paint each part. Good Luck. Easy job.

 

[Another Ahab]

That's nice; looks real clean.