Kenlowe 24v Electric Radiator Fan

[Lieutenant Dan]

I snatched this fan off ebay it's brand new in the box never been installed. It has a adjustable tempurature control switch with a capillary that goes inside the radiator and it can be wired for push or pull from what I got from kenlowes website it is a 3000cfm fan.

Anyway I have a question. The controller has three wires. One is a hot from the ignition. The middle one is labeled NC (normally closed) and the third is labeled NO (normally open) now I'm assuming (cause the wiring instructions suck) that I would wire off the normally closed terminal? And then I could wire a switch off the normally open terminal so I can turn it on and off manually? Or just let the controller do it's thing and wire a switch into I turn it off for water fording?

I also plan on using two other electric fans with it and using a relay for each fan so the controller would just be a signal so no load is going through it.

Any suggestions?

 

[runk]

Usually NC would be +24V when the controller (really just a switch that actuates at a certain temperature) is below the set point (ie: switch is normally closed and conducting electricity) and then 0V when above the set point.
The NO is the opposite, 0V below the setpoint (switch is normally open and won't conduct electricity), and +24V above the setpoint.
Usually you would wire the fan to the NO terminal.

On our Triumphs we use these fans all the time (the 12V versions !), and usually put a 3 position switch between the fuse (which connects to the battery) and fan. 1st position is off (for when the themo switch fails closed), 2nd position supplies power to the thermostatic switch, and 3rd position supplies power directly to the fan (for when the thermo switch fails open). Note the emphasis on when the themo switch fails, they do fail regularly, usually in heavy traffic or when you walk away for lunch ! The relay is probably a good idea, maybe it will increase the themo switch's lifetime...

If it didn't come with the kit, a little pad of thin closed cell foam under the probe where it slips between the hose and radiator will help prevent leaks.

There was quite a bit of discussion a few years ago about adding electric fans, you might want to search them out. The consensus seemed to be the mechanical fan was more then adequate if the radiator, water pump and cooling passages in the block were in good shape and clean. That has certainly matched my experiences down here in Houston, the deuce is fine in the summer, and tough to get warm enough if it is anywhere below about 40F. Our Triumphs are completely overwhelmed by the heat here, even with bigger radiators, so the electric fans are a necessity if you want to drive the old sports cars in the summer.

 

[Lieutenant Dan]

Thanks I didn't even think of the switch working that way I was think open as in on not open = no contact and off

yeah I read all the fan threads I could find, my plan is to take the mechanical fan off and run just electric atleast in the winter time. When I rest drove my deuce it was 15* out and the truck never made it over 120* on the temp gauge so there was no heat.

 

[welldigger]

How thick is the fan? The water pump hub is pretty close to the rad.

 

[shenkmen]

Thanks I didn't even think of the switch working that way I was think open as in on not open = no contact and off

yeah I read all the fan threads I could find, my plan is to take the mechanical fan off and run just electric atleast in the winter time. When I rest drove my deuce it was 15* out and the truck never made it over 120* on the temp gauge so there was no heat.

Slap a pizza box on the front of your radiator (gimpy style) or get a winter cover.