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License Plate Mount for the Deuce

Tackettr

Member
287
1
16
Location
Edmond/OK
I do not claim to be a “Fabricator” but here is how I mounted my tag to my deuce.  I found a lighted mount (12 volts), on-line at JC Whitneys (Part# ZX889627W) for $10.99 then used the “Resources” link for the light bulb conversion.   Went to NAPA and picked up a 24 volt bulb (464) to replace the 12 volt (168).  Then used scrap angle iron to mount it to the deuce.  Below are pictures of the mount.  The first version was with no ground wire, which is how it came, but was not grounding properly resulting in it working intermittent.  The rivets were not grounding well so I soldiered the ground wire directly to the light mount.  The location may not work well for everyone.  It could be damage if you do a lot of brush busting but I don’t like drilling holes in obvious places.  Anyway I hope this helps someone! :D :D

PS: Sorry they are in reverse order, the preview had them opposite, so I painfully put them in backwarks to make them appear correctly, then the final versesion put them this way. :evil: :evil:
 

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2027Deuce

New member
436
1
0
Location
Laurel, Nebraska
That looks like the way to go. Thanks for the pics. In pic 13 it looks like you got yourself the little brass fitting for the brake master cylinder? I have found it is a good idea to keep an extra one of those around.
 

swbradley1

Modertator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
14,251
1,705
113
Location
Dayton, OH
Good looking setup.

The best thing about Ohio is that if you get historical plates you don't need t o mount a plate on the front or back.

You just have to paint the numbers nice and neat on the front and rear.

steve
 

Tackettr

Member
287
1
16
Location
Edmond/OK
Floridianson, I hate them too!!! :D

2027Deuce, I have a few of those brass fittings. They are for my WWII Jeep (FORD GPW) but work on the MC of the Deuce. It's funny how there are so many simularities between my Jeep and the Deuce. The Brake and Clutch pedal setup looks the same, only bigger.

SteelandCanvas, Part number is now added.

Kevin
 

tamangel

New member
1,406
19
0
Location
Nor Cal Coast
here's the section from the Ohio BMV:
Notwithstanding section 4503.21 of the Revised Code, the owner of an historical motor vehicle that was manufactured for military purposes and that is registered under this section may display the assigned registration number of the vehicle by painting the number on the front and rear of the vehicle. The number shall be painted, in accordance with the size and style specifications established for numerals and letters shown on license plates in section 4503.22 of the Revised Code, in a color that contrasts clearly with the color of the vehicle, and shall be legible and visible at all times. Upon application for registration under this section and payment of the license fee prescribed in division (B) of this section, the owner of such an historical motor vehicle shall be issued historical vehicle license plates. The registration certificate and at least one such license plate shall be kept in the vehicle at all times the vehicle is operated on the public roads and highways in this state. If ownership of such a vehicle is transferred, the transferor shall surrender the historical vehicle license plates or transfer them to another historical motor vehicle the transferor owns, and remove or obliterate the registration numbers painted on the vehicle.

from here:
http://www.hotrodder.com/caddy/BMVLAW.html

and the OHIO BMV form:
http://www.bmv.ohio.gov/pdf_forms/4853.pdf

Hole, I thought all states require rear plate illumination for night ops...not just your favorite one?

Mike

************
'By three methods we may learn wisdom: First, by reflection, which is noblest; Second, by imitation, which is easiest; and third by experience, which is the bitterest.'
Confucius
 

randyscycle

New member
467
3
0
Location
Rhoadesville VA (where!)
Floridianson said:
Looks good and clean. Nice tap. I don't like solderless crimps and those stupid blue fold over taps.
Crimp connections almost always fail and the blue things are called "Scotchlocks" If they even get damp they generally fail soon thereafter. Trailer manufacturers seem to be very fond of them.

Solder and waterproof heat shrink always!!!!
 
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