Lifted 1008 brakes

[japickar]

I have had my 1008 lifted for a few months and a few miles now but I am still trying to pinpoint my brake issue. Whenever I get on the brakes pretty hard, the truck wants to pull VERY hard to the right. I can counter-steer the pulling but I don't want this to become a safety issue if I ever get in an emergency stop situation.

So far I have bled the brakes at least 4 times - twice manually (when I first lifted the truck), once with a vacuum bleeder, and today with a pneaumatic bleeder. Every time I have ended up with great pedal pressure. I always end up with the same issue though.

I have all new stainless flex lines and have checked and found no leaks. I have bled to I had no more air each time, but have not completely flushed the system. I am using DOT 5 fluid.

I am wondering if maybe I have a bad wheel cylinder on the left rear, or maybe just need to completely flush all of the lines to see if that fixes the problem. Perhaps this was a problem I have had all along, and the lift and big tires just exacerbated the problem. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Also, today when bleeding with the pneaumatic bleeder I accidently drained the rear brake reservoir. I filled it back up and bled the rear again. It seems everything is back to "normal" now, but did I create a new problem? As said, I have good pedal and it stops as good as it did before.

 

[doghead]

I would bet your front left pads are contaminated. Change them. I've had this happen more than once.

 

[12vctd]

caliper could be getting stuck, also you could have a worn steering componet causing this as well as what dog mentioned

 

[still standing still cyco]

have you done the kingpin bushing/spring replacement in the D60 yet? alot of times its what causes the deathwobble, and maybe at least contributing to this along with the steering components that 12vctd suggests... but also could be a simple fix like Dogheads suggestion, esp if it became a problem only after lifting. any possibility you had a bit of a brakefluid spill while changing your brakelines to the extended ones? also, check those new flex lines again. on braided stainless lines, sometimes you wont get a leak, but there may be a soft spot that causes it to balloon out under pressure, and can cause braking performance to suffer... seen it happen on street bikes with braided lines before... both of those are great suggestions they gave, and im not trying to downplay any of them. just want to help make sure you cover all your bases... try dogheads first, simplest and cheapest fix... if the pads are good, do the "shakedown" while jacked up to see what your steering is looking like. good luck in fiixin it!!

 

[japickar]

king pin springs and bushings are new as well as the steering stabilizer and draglink ends.

i would not have thought about contaminated pads, but will definately try this fix.

i have not seen any balooning of my stainless lines. i thought this was more of an issue with rubber lines. mine are kevlar lined as well. regardless, i will give everything anothr visual inspection just incase.

thanks for the replies.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Even a new line can be damaged. A simple crush could fracture the inner lining and cause a flap inside which could work as a checkvalve. A noticable pull when applying brakes is usually a front wheel problem. Caliper slides can contribute to the issue as well. It's going to require some close inspection to find the issue.

 

[Aurora]

I had the same issue with my M1009. I took the caliper off and pushed the piston in with a c-clamp. I no longer have the pull while braking.

 

[K10A]

I had the same issue with my M1009. I took the caliper off and pushed the piston in with a c-clamp. I no longer have the pull while braking.

That is a bad thing to do because if there is rust in the caliper you just pushed it all back in to the top of the brake system. Really bad for ABS equipped vehicles.
It is better to replace the caliper or remove the hose if you are going to reset the piston.