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Looking at buying my first

GearSpec

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Interested in buying some vehicles for persona ownership and myabe to clean up and flip here and there. Very excited but nervous at the same time. I'm sure no matter what Gl's description, you have no clue if it will drive home or not, even if it says starts and runs or driven into lot, right?

Is it safe to assume most or all mil vehicles have been well taken care of and maintained by the motorpool?

I have been looking at some 6x6 m35a2's etc... is there a way to tell ho9w old they are by the vin? Are there certain models to look for that are preffered or to stay away from?

Any major changes that were a real plus starting with a certain model or year?

Anything else I should know?!?! Thanks you so much for your time!
 

mhodges

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90% of the trucks can be driven off the lot with a jump/fluid check, but it's a good idea to stop shortly after leaving DRMO to check everything over better for the long haul. Age is determined by the contract #- you can find this in the GL ad by clicking the NSN # at the bottom of the page where it says how much the truck cost the military. Later trucks have airshift transfer case and the really later trucks (85/86) have a split brake system. GunnersHusband has a few for sale with titles he got from GL late last year (GunnersHusband.com) He is who I bought mine from- Great guy to deal with. also, not far from you in NC- only about 30 min from stateline in Chesapeake, VA
 
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Welcome to the site. [thumbzup]

We just recently brought back a group of 2 1/2 ton trucks from a recent auction. We drove them from Indianopolis to Alabama. A 450 mile trip. Other then having to jump start them and put fuel in, we did not have any issues. Most trucks are usually very able to drive home. As others have said only about 10% are not going to be able to drive home. just do a good look over and check them out. Once you get one youll get bit by the bug. :D
 

GearSpec

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Thanks for all the great info so far! is one model better than the other models noticed there a few diff duece and a half models

Also curious about the 6x6 system how does it work, do these have lockers, auto lock, manual lock? etc etc thanks!
 

mhodges

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M35= cargo Deuce (Most common)
M36= lwb cargo Deuce (not common)
M49=Deuce tanker (less common)
M108= Deuce Wrecker (rare- find one, BUY IT)
M109=Shop van Deuce(pretty common)
M275= Deuce Tractor (rare- find one, BUY IT)

There are many variations when it comes to the larger 5 ton trucks (any M5X, M6X, M8XX, M9XX designation)

The general setup of most 2-1/2 ton Deuce 6x6 systems:
-5 spd trans- either direct or OD, coupled to 2spd (Hi/Lo) transfer case
-transfer case is manual shift Hi/Lo, shift on the fly capable/ works in 4x6 or 6x6, similar to aux trans- can be split shifted on the road.
-two styles of front axle (6x6) engagement in the transfer case- airshift switch on dash, or overriding clutch "sprague" style which is in the transfer case and sends power to front axle when rear axle speed differs from front= requires adjustment, and often viewed as problematic.
- these trucks have no hubs to engage- full drive flanges in the front, however aftermarket manual selectable hubs are available- and they can even be put on one of the rear tandem's to allow for tighter turning radius on pavement.
-lockers (detroit mainly) are available aftermarket, not standard equipment however- highly recommended! sure there will be more options in the future as these rockwells are becoming very popular in the 4x4 rockcrawling/ mudbogging realm.
-just a note- these trucks do not have power steering- gotta move up to the 5 ton for that- oh yeah 5 tons have lockers in the rear.
 

GearSpec

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great info, thanks so much for your time!

M35= cargo Deuce (Most common)
M36= lwb cargo Deuce (not common)
M49=Deuce tanker (less common)
M108= Deuce Wrecker (rare- find one, BUY IT)
M109=Shop van Deuce(pretty common)
M275= Deuce Tractor (rare- find one, BUY IT)


well i expect to buy a m35 and maybe a m109 at some point for me

as for flipping etc the m275 and m108's are a sure thing? what kind of value do you they have? is there any guide to value on any of these models?

I'm guessing 2k or less for any running model is a decent deal? that about right?
 

m16ty

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gimpyrobb said:
If you can't go inspect a truck you will be bidding on, bid as its broken.
That's how I bid.
Last truck I bought the add said "truck runs". Well they were right. The engine ran like a top but didn't have a sign of brakes. I've only driven the truck about 20 miles since I got it and I just got finished with replacing a steering u-joint and wheel bearings that was about to have a major come apart. I hauled it home but if I would have had to drive it 100 miles or so home (that's IF I could have gotten the brakes working at the GL lot) I think I would have had problems before I got there.
I did pay "parts truck" price for it though so I'm happy :D .
 

GearSpec

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could I get some pricing guidelines for the diff models as to what is a good deal and what's not for both personal ownership and being able to clean them up and flip them, i.e what's a going market price you can generally sell them for too

Love these things they are so cool! ;)
 

Bozor1000

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m16ty said:
gimpyrobb said:
If you can't go inspect a truck you will be bidding on, bid as its broken.
That's how I bid.
Last truck I bought the add said "truck runs". Well they were right. The engine ran like a top but didn't have a sign of brakes. I've only driven the truck about 20 miles since I got it and I just got finished with replacing a steering u-joint and wheel bearings that was about to have a major come apart. I hauled it home but if I would have had to drive it 100 miles or so home (that's IF I could have gotten the brakes working at the GL lot) I think I would have had problems before I got there.
I did pay "parts truck" price for it though so I'm happy :D .
Going atfer the big boys is pretty competitive? Sometime in the future I would like to get one, (if the wife let's me) what is the usual price range for a deuce? I really like to put some 53's on it and lift it. I've seen some very interesting deuces on this website. I really like the one that the guy grafted in an extra cab and some air ride seats. That was off the hook! If i'm not mistaken, you do have to have a CDL to drive one?
 

GearSpec

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Steve obviously I'm a noob, but from what I underdstand that is the great thing about the deuce no CDL required.
 

GearSpec

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Ok well I wasn't going to post it because I didn't want anyone else saying hey nice truck and bidding on it... but what the heck, I need your advice! And hopefully you guys will be nice and not bid on it haha

I think this looks like a really nice 85 truck, with the cargo cover too!
Let me know what you think.. i just hope it is driveable....., what would your guess be?
if not what kind of trailer would be needed to tow it home 5 hours?
http://cgi.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=1640942&categoryId=1004
 

builder77

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Re: RE: Looking at buying my first

mhodges said:
Age is determined by the contract #- you can find this in the GL ad by clicking the NSN # at the bottom of the page where it says how much the truck cost the military.
This is not actually correct. While the year is determined by the contract span it is not as easy as clicking on the NSN link. If that link was accurate then apparently every truck up for auction now is either a 1985 or a 1989 truck even the early 70s trucks.
 

GearSpec

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RE: Re: RE: Looking at buying my first

hahah oops maybe that's why i thought the above one up for auction was an 85! and idea what year it is?
 

builder77

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RE: Re: RE: Looking at buying my first

I hope this wreck of a M35 is a benign enough example of a "1985" truck as I don't want to post any listings people would get upset about having attention drawn to it. It is little more then rolling parts.
http://cgi.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=1639113&convertTo=USD
Anyways it is probably a 68 or 69 truck with its non-dropside bed, box seat, C-turbo, and lack of a manufacturer on the VIN plate. Of course it says 1985 by clicking on the NSN link. I have been noticing in this last batch of vehicles that there are a number of them that are listed as 1985 in the description, but I don't believe it for a second. In fact I informed GL about one that stood out to me as being wrong a few hours ago. They just started to give me the fine print junk about them not being responsible for errors in the listings. I know GL is making an effort to clean up some of its problems, but hidding behind fine print instead of fixing the problem makes it apparent they have work to do.
 

GearSpec

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GearSpec said:
Ok well I wasn't going to post it because I didn't want anyone else saying hey nice truck and bidding on it... but what the heck, I need your advice! And hopefully you guys will be nice and not bid on it haha

I think this looks like a really nice 85 truck, with the cargo cover too!
Let me know what you think.. i just hope it is driveable....., what would your guess be?
if not what kind of trailer would be needed to tow it home 5 hours?
http://cgi.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=1640942&categoryId=1004
and feedback on the above vehicle?
 

emmado22

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Thats the latest (1985) PROCUREMENT data that DRMS has. It is correct, as the NSN applies to ALL of that M35A2 truck series... If DRMS have the historical procurement data, you'd see all the prices they paid thruout the years for them.
 

GearSpec

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so you're saying it really is an 85? what about the condition, and how it's optioned etc... desireable?
 

emmado22

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No, it is NOT a 1985. When someone at GL types in that NSN, it brings up all that info. That info was last updated in 1985.

The NSN applies to ALL trucks with that NSN, no matter when they were made. The thing is with that partiulcar database they use, it only shows the latest version of data entered. In this case, 1985... There is another database that shows ALL the info, every contract, every price, every contractor, and a ton more details, but that database is not availible to the civilian public.

Look at other trucks with that same NSN...It will pull up the exact same info.

The best way to determine a build year is with the serial # and David Doyles article on decoding them.
 
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