Looking for eastern VA based mechanic familiar with 6.2 in M1009

[GreggVA]

Would appreciate some help if anyone knows a mechanic in the Norfolk/Virginia Beach greater area of VA. I have a guy but he just can't seem to finish the job. Most of the shops around here don't want to mess with vintage diesels. I appreciate any help.

 

[cucvrus]

I am 6 hours north of you. I 81 exit 90 in PA. What is it you need done? Have towbar. Will travel.

 

[Sharecropper]

Is it something you could do yourself with help from us on SS? Conveniently, everything is spelled out step-by-step in the CUCV Technical Manuals (free download in the Stickies). And for the most part, basic hand tools are all that is required to do most tasks. I am not a "mechanic" by any sense of the word, however I have enjoyed and continue to enjoy figuring things out as I progress through my M1028 build. Looking back on my 9-year rebuild project, I could not have accomplished what I have without the help and advice of helpful folks here on SS.

Let us know exactly what you are trying to get done. Unless it is an engine replacement or something of similar magnitude, I'll bet you have the hidden ability yourself to perform the work. And you will be much more proud of the end result.

I am here to help in any way I can.

 

[GreggVA]

I am 6 hours north of you. I 81 exit 90 in PA. What is it you need done? Have towbar. Will travel.

Pretty sure it is a head gasket issue. Was pressurizing the radiator and causing coolant to overflow. so replaced the water pump, radiator, and thermostat. Was still getting pressure in the radiator but not making oil (water past the gasket into the oil system). Oil has been clean with no signs of water (not milky). I have never worked on diesels and a little intimidated by the injection system and pump. I have rebuilt 4-cylinder engines (new rings, seals, bearings,...) but not that familiar with V8s. Took it to a guy to do the head gaskets. The guy fixing it is about halfway there but has taken close to six months and has some significant health issues. Looking for a backup plan to push it over the line. Truck was starting and running pretty well when I took it to him but didn't like idling when it was warmed up.

 

[GreggVA]

Is it something you could do yourself with help from us on SS? Conveniently, everything is spelled out step-by-step in the CUCV Technical Manuals (free download in the Stickies). And for the most part, basic hand tools are all that is required to do most tasks. I am not a "mechanic" by any sense of the word, however I have enjoyed and continue to enjoy figuring things out as I progress through my M1028 build. Looking back on my 9-year rebuild project, I could not have accomplished what I have without the help and advice of helpful folks here on SS.

Let us know exactly what you are trying to get done. Unless it is an engine replacement or something of similar magnitude, I'll bet you have the hidden ability yourself to perform the work. And you will be much more proud of the end result.
I am here to help in any way I can.

I am right there with you. This site has been great and appreciate all the support that you and others regularly give. From my purchase several years ago to date, this is the best resource hands down for MIL vehicles. I'm just at a point where I am looking for options if the guy fixing it can't pull it over the line. He's trying but has some significant challenges. I have some some competing priorities right now so me doing it isn't likely to happen.

 

[cucvrus]

Have you had the heads both checked out at a competent automotive machine shop? It is probably corroded metal head gasket seals at the combustion chamber. I have had that issue. Make sure the heads are properly machined. Get new head gaskets and head bolts. Good Luck. My offer still stands if you need help. I am quicker during off season which is now. Have a Great Weekend Be Safe and Stay Cool.

 

[GreggVA]

Have you had the heads both checked out at a competent automotive machine shop. It is probably corroded metal head gasket seals at the combustion chamber. I have had that issue. make sure the heads are properly machined. Get new head gaskets and head bolts. Good Luck. My offer still stands if you need help. I am quicker during off season which is now. Have a Great Weekend Be Safe and Stay Cool.

I appreciate it and will keep you in mind. Have a full set of new gaskets and bolts!

 

[cucvmule]

Do you have the cylinder heads, have they been checked for cracks between the valves? Maybe it is time to load up the parts in the bed and have cucvrus retrieve the truck and repair. You need someone with the knowledge of repair of the 6.2 engine. If cucvrus is willing to help out then I would Gladly retain Him for His services. He may even have any repair parts needed to help with the repair.

And cucvrus said now is a Good time.

Good Luck

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Oil has been clean with no signs of water (not milky).

Oil can look clean and still have water in it. That's why you just don't run any engine where you suspect a blown head gasket. Just don't.

 

[M1078MAN]

Im in SW Va, and unfortunately, some of my previous mtr sgt have said i know a thing or two. Semi-Retired from wrenches and working a new path, but willing to help anyway i can.

Don't be intimidated. With help from SS and the TM, you can do it all, and to boot, any excuse to buy tools or gain knowledge is a great excuse in my book.

 

[GreggVA]

Oil can look clean and still have water in it. That's why you just don't run any engine where you suspect a blown head gasket. Just don't.

Thanks for the info as I thought that was a sure thing.