Looking for input designing a way to mount a very, very big window

[Nomadic]

I'm planning a camper build on or behind a BMY M925A2. The idea is to work in the country in a camper that is mounted to the bed of the truck or on a trailer. The idea I'd like help with is mounting a window to enjoy the vast mountain views while sitting at a desk in front of a computer in the camper.
I'd like to have the window so big that it starts at ankle level (or a knee high) and stops a foot or two below the ceiling. Then spans as far right and left as sensible. Aside from climate control problems, I plan to take the rig off road where there will be twisting and bending of the truck and maybe trailer (I don't know about articulating trailers). I'd like to prevent a big thick peice of glass (and my wall) from shattering to the ground, popping out or cracking.

A couple ideas come to mind to make this work and one is to build the window frame so strong there is no flex, like welding in I beams. Or having a strung window frame, but incorporate some type of buffer material that is designed to flex and that flex would absorb the structure twist preventing downforce/side-force on the glass. Or a combination of both. The flexing buffer materiel I'm thinking about in principal is what is used on double length busses. In Seattle they are Tunnel Busses but its a trailer that is fitted to the front, but it can rotate. There is a buffer material between the front and back that provides a seal and it allows one big long bus on the inside.

Any ideas on how to construct the header for the window and the sill to prevent problems off-road or does this sound like a problem waiting to happen?

 

[wheelspinner]

Make sure you build it just like our Uncle did; Box is STIFF, but mounted in order to let the frame flex below it. If you just mount it rigid all the way down, it will force the flex over to your box. Those buses are not using the gasketing to absorb the flexing, they have an articulation joint. And some of those bus windows can REALLY flex, but the polycarbonate ones are the best.

 

[Nomadic]

Interesting. How did your uncle mount the box in order to let the frame flex below it?

 

[wheelspinner]

By our Uncle , I mean Uncle Sam. The boxes are mounted with a spring loaded bolt system. If your cargo box is still on, have a look.

 

[CptSoftBelly]

Might be able to install a windshield or two. Wouldn't be an opening window, but would be strong enough for your purposes.

 

[TCD]

Howdy,

You may find this thread interesting:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?157575-Mounting-a-Craig-box-on-a-923-a2

YMMV...

tom n tyler

 

[Nomadic]

Howdy,

You may find this thread interesting:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?157575-Mounting-a-Craig-box-on-a-923-a2

YMMV...

tom n tyler

After seeing the articulation pics, the spring setup is certainly helping.

I've been wondering if I should do a box on the back of the truck or a trailer setup. Do you think a trailer with a special hitch that allowed 360 degree movement like the Hitch-Ezy (Australian) would prevent a need to buffer movement on a military grade trailer to keep it square?

 

[Nomadic]

Anyone?

 

[TCD]

Howdy Nomadic,

I must have gotten confused with my replies yesterday as I replied on my thread, bottom of the second page:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?157575-Mounting-a-Craig-box-on-a-923-a2/page2

tom n tyler

 

[Captaincarrier]

Sliding patio doors? Maybe?

 

[Nomadic]

Sliding patio doors? Maybe?

Awesome an idea.
I had pictured a custom piece of glass that flexes. Much like an office window in a high rise, they can flex a little.
But the slider is a beauty. It would serve two purposes, a killer view and exit/entry. If the camper is on a trailer, then I'd have room to store a wooden stair case w/small deck. Then but that deck/staircase up to the slider. I know as a kid those sliders (built in the '70's) are pretty darn tough!

 

[CptSoftBelly]

If you got it with hurricane glass you'd never have to worry about it breaking. Just buying it.

 

[TCD]

Howdy,

The following is just my personal opinion and YMMV!

My personal experience with small ocean going boats (both sail and power) is that large windows greatly weaken the structure of the boat and can lead to more flexing and the expected results. I have personally been aboard sailboats with small ports that have endured very rough weather for days with no damage and I have seen large power boats blow out sliding glass doors and large windows by powering over to Catalina Island on a "choppy" day. And a sliding/tilting opening window is usually weaker than a fixed window.

You will also give up a great deal of insulation with just about any window glass you can reasonably use.

Personally I am going to use several small sailboat opening ports with screens (opens into the space):



And a sailboat front hatch on my roof as a access/escape hatch (opens only from the inside if you wish). The pictured model has a solar powered vent which I like:



Happy Tails,
tom n tyler

 

[Nomadic]

The insulating issue is an easier fix than removing a bearing part of a wall and replacing it with a window. However, I think if the structure is built well with a strong header, sill, hurricane grade slider and a solid outside cover that overlaps the slider frame it may work. It does get windy in the mountains and lakes. At lake Isabella last winter, wind hit 80 MPH for hours. No tent in site survived that wind and I wouldn't want to be in a pop-up camper.

 

[Csm Davis]

I'm planning a camper build on or behind a BMY M925A2. The idea is to work in the country in a camper that is mounted to the bed of the truck or on a trailer. The idea I'd like help with is mounting a window to enjoy the vast mountain views while sitting at a desk in front of a computer in the camper.
I'd like to have the window so big that it starts at ankle level (or a knee high) and stops a foot or two below the ceiling. Then spans as far right and left as sensible. Aside from climate control problems, I plan to take the rig off road where there will be twisting and bending of the truck and maybe trailer (I don't know about articulating trailers). I'd like to prevent a big thick peice of glass (and my wall) from shattering to the ground, popping out or cracking.

A couple ideas come to mind to make this work and one is to build the window frame so strong there is no flex, like welding in I beams. Or having a strung window frame, but incorporate some type of buffer material that is designed to flex and that flex would absorb the structure twist preventing downforce/side-force on the glass. Or a combination of both. The flexing buffer materiel I'm thinking about in principal is what is used on double length busses. In Seattle they are Tunnel Busses but its a trailer that is fitted to the front, but it can rotate. There is a buffer material between the front and back that provides a seal and it allows one big long bus on the inside.

Any ideas on how to construct the header for the window and the sill to prevent problems off-road or does this sound like a problem waiting to happen?

Okay first off you really need to figure out what you want a motorhome or a cargo truck pulling a camper trailer. Both have advantages and disadvantages so you need to look at what you want to do and pick what works best for you. So what do you want it for and to do?

After seeing the articulation pics, the spring setup is certainly helping.

I've been wondering if I should do a box on the back of the truck or a trailer setup. Do you think a trailer with a special hitch that allowed 360 degree movement like the Hitch-Ezy (Australian) would prevent a need to buffer movement on a military grade trailer to keep it square?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Nomadic]

Okay first off you really need to figure out what you want a motorhome or a cargo truck pulling a camper trailer. Both have advantages and disadvantages so you need to look at what you want to do and pick what works best for you. So what do you want it for and to do?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I'm a freelance software developer and I'll be building software (tools) and living in it on public and government land like BLM and National Forests moving every 2 weeks. The trailer vs motorhome is hard because the motorhome would work better in dense forests and the trailer would work better in more open areas like the Nevada mountains where I am now.

A BMY 925A2 with a box on the back and a trailer or a cargo bed and a camper trailer would be what I need. The stays require lots of fuel and water. The fuel would power a generator for electronics to run all day every day. Ideally refueling/replenshing water tanks would happen every 4 weeks. The trailer or truck would hold the bulky heavy stuff like a drum or two of fuel, a large battery bank and a generator. The trade off would be staying out of tight forest roads and thats fine. There is plenty of country to enjoy outside places to camp that can only be reached by tight twisty roads.

 

[TCD]

Howdy Nomadic,

I am building my unit based on the assumption of 100% powered by solar which is not to hard or expensive today. I have room for at least 800 watts of solar panels on the roof of my box with room to spare. I plan on initially having a small generator (2000 watt) along but with the exposure to sun in the southwest I don't think I will need to use it very often. I may not even have propane on board.

Have you seen videos like this on Youtube?

http://www.gonewiththewynns.com/solar
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wGlA0wd43k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xCwLJdhngDE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VlJaAnG02s

Basically I am planning on using lithium batteries recycled out of large computer UPS systems (routinely replaced at 85% efficiency) which means they are sealed and can be built into the floor (and very inexpensive).

YMMV...

tom n tyler

 

[Nomadic]

Howdy Nomadic,

I am building my unit based on the assumption of 100% powered by solar which is not to hard or expensive today. I have room for at least 800 watts of solar panels on the roof of my box with room to spare. I plan on initially having a small generator (2000 watt) along but with the exposure to sun in the southwest I don't think I will need to use it very often. I may not even have propane on board.

Have you seen videos like this on Youtube?

http://www.gonewiththewynns.com/solar
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wGlA0wd43k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xCwLJdhngDE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VlJaAnG02s

Basically I am planning on using lithium batteries recycled out of large computer UPS systems (routinely replaced at 85% efficiency) which means they are sealed and can be built into the floor (and very inexpensive).

YMMV...

tom n tyler

That sounds pretty cool. Propane is pretty expensive so you'd save there.

I'd like to do solar too and would have enough space to stow panels and then set them out in the sun when setting up camp.

I haven't seen those videos, its hard to watch some of them were the video is so narrow its like you are walking around looking through a Christmas wrapping paper tube. Need the big picture.