Looking to lift my cucv

[cucvdonk]

Looking to lift my cucv. Being able to only run 50ish is killing me. So any ideas or suggestions for the best lift/tire combo to use. Dont want to go to extreme but need to do something due to having 4.56 gears in this thing.

 

[Cucvnut]

look up lifting a M1008 there are a few threads that explane it pretty well

try the search function

 

[Recovry4x4]

To help you decide what you need for tires, I use this! Gear Ratio Calculator

 

[DesertDutchman]

A CUCV is just a K2500/3500 platform, so any lift for a 73-86 solid axle GM/Chevy. It's been a while, but I had a 79 K2500 Suburban and 4" and under is just a new set of leaves 94) or leaves front blocks rear. After that, a drop pitman arm/steering linkage comes into play..Then there is the way I set it up..4" lift, 3" body. I had cutout flares and ran 40's EASY...4" will make plenty of roon for 35's....if you're going off road, lose the 16.5' or get beadlock wheels or Staun internal beadlocks....
My 2 cents!!!

 

[4bogginchevys]

i'll bet that 35's/4-inch would fit the bill

 

[Cucvnut]

if u lift it do cross over steering.

 

[acesneights1]

I did 4 inch with 35's . I can run about 65-70. Oddly enough I checked the speedo against my GPS and it is within 2 mph. It almost seems more accurate now.

 

[4x4 Forever]

Assuming a M1008,

There are several companies that have the complete kit. If you decide to use blocks, use blocks on the rear only. I personally would use all leaf springs for a lift. Dont forget to get dropped steering arm / possibly shocks / extended brake lines. Here is shortcut for 4" skyjacker lift:

Product Search - Skyjacker

They also have a good lift / tire chart:

http://www.skyjacker.com/image/catalog/pdf/Wheel and Tire Chart.pdf

You can also look through the posts and see what others have done and pick the best for you.

Good Luck!!

 

[acesneights1]

Be mindful, Skyjacker will tell you thier kit will NOT fit a CUCV. Most of it will.

 

[cucvdonk]

Yea the main thing is being able to run 65/70 in the thing. and yea its a m1008. i am looking to use springs in the front and drop hangers in the rear to keep the heavy springs cause i haul alot of stuff. I will prob take all the corner bolts out of the bed to help with flex some. But if can get some input on the best place to get a cheap lift would be helpful.

 

[4bogginchevys]

Lift options

Yea the main thing is being able to run 65/70 in the thing. and yea its a m1008. i am looking to use springs in the front and drop hangers in the rear to keep the heavy springs cause i haul alot of stuff. I will prob take all the corner bolts out of the bed to help with flex some. But if can get some input on the best place to get a cheap lift would be helpful.

Dodge used 3.5-4" lift blocks stock in a lot of trucks, junkyard price 10.00
U-bolts for front/rear w/ center pins 45.00
Drop steering arm new 65.00
brake line extensions at napa 40.00
Junk yard score on front lift springs 40.00
Front driveline rebuild for length(if necessary) 75.00

Getting to work on time going 65.....................Priceless

 

[spink7124]

I don't think that I would take bolts out of the bed to help with flex...when you get good and bound up these frames will flex!!

If you are handy and comfortable with some light fab, do a homemade shackle flip in the rear using the stock hangers. Might be a bit shady but lots of guys run theirs that way. Search pirate4x4 or Colorado K5 for pics.

For the front you could easily do a junkyard 52" spring swap for next to nothing. Use your stock hangers and move them to fit the spring (again go to pirate4x4 or Colorado K5 for a writeup), a zero rate from DIY4X4 to keep the axle from moving to far forward with the different center pin location, and some junkyard 1/2 ton chevy rear springs and you're set.

If you keep the front axle articulation in check, getting the front driveline lengthened a bit would probably work. When I did my shackle flip in the rear the pinion angle was close to perfect and the driveshaft bolted right in.

Some extended brake lines (I had mine made locally to my specs in rubber for $70 for all three) and longer shocks and you're set.

Another thing is I would pay close attention to an rpm calculator before you make any commitments because larger tires probably won't lower your rpm's as much as you think.

 

[4bogginchevys]

I just remembered that a very wise man told me that the u-joints/yokes need to be +/- 5 degrees of the same plane....it's not important that the rear yoke point up toward the transfer, but rather they are parallel! If at all possible of course