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M1008 not starting

pb1185

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So i have a m1008 i got from gov planet the does not run. Long story short i have replaced the injector pump, glow plugs, glow plug relay, glow plug card, new batteries, new fuel filter bled the system and of course new diesel. Any suggestions?
 

cucvrus

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So i have a m1008 i got from gov planet the does not run. Long story short i have replaced the injector pump, glow plugs, glow plug relay, glow plug card, new batteries, new fuel filter bled the system and of course new diesel. Any suggestions?
First off. Is it getting fuel to and thru the injection pump and out to the delivery nozzles? Lets get that resolved first. the glow plugs and proper operation of the glow plugs can come second. You can burn out a new set of glow plugs cranking the engine over with no fuel present at the delivery nozzle. Open all the nozzles with a 3/4"/19mm wrench and crank it over get the nozzles wet. Close the nozzles and check and see if you have operational glow plugs. if you have fuel and glow plugs it should start. Did you ever hear it run before you changed the injection pump? Please report back. I am sure you can get it going.
 

pb1185

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Yes, i have bled all the injectors. The glow plugs are working properly, and no it was not running when i picked it up. It just turns over without starting, I'm very confused, thank you for your help.
 

richingalveston

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compression, fuel and heat. those three things in any one cylinder and you will get the motor to sputter.

you are missing one of the three in all cylinders. It is normally not compression especially in all cylinders.

most likely fuel or heat so I would definitely triple check all that
 

scottladdy

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Just a suggestion, but have you started with the troubleshooting section in the -20 manual? Page 88 is where no start conditions begin.

You will need to follow a process of elimination to find the issue, and there may be more than one. Take it one step at a time and PROVE that the system being checked is good and functioning well enough.

These engines are compression ignition. They rely on the heat of compression of the air to ignite the fuel when it is injected into the combustion chamber. These engines use pre-combustion chambers. They require more initial heat when cold to ignite the fuel since they are "indirect injection". They need a minimum cranking speed and supplemental heat from the glow plugs in order to start reliably.

WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT USE ETHER (AKA STARTING FLUID) TO TRY TO START YOUR ENGINE AS YOU CAN CAUSE CATASTROPHIC DAMAGE.

You state you replaced the injection pump. Did you time it properly AND ensure that the lines are properly connected to the proper output on the pump and correct injector?

If you can, please take a video of you trying to start it up. Anything coming out of the exhaust? If someone else cranks it, do you hear audible puffs coming out the exhaust (indicating at least some compression).
 

Tinstar

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Are you stepping on accelerator pedal as recommended in the manual?
If you don't, it will not start like a more modern Diesel.
 

cucvrus

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Are you stepping on accelerator pedal as recommended in the manual?
If you don't, it will not start like a more modern Diesel.
I start mine every day with no throttle. I do not like to wake a sleeping engine with RPM's. And if it has fuel present at each nozzle and glow plugs that are working it should start. Pull the glow plugs and crank it over real good and get all the air out of the fuel system. And like mentioned. Triple check the glow plugs and fuel system front to back for leaks. I use starting fluid when it is below zero and never had any issues. I just give it a wake up call while someone else is cranking. Never hurt any vehicles I know of. That is what they make the stuff for. The disclaimers are there because some guys spray paint the entire intake with starter fluid. I have seen plenums blown of power stroke Ford engines already. Pulling the glow plugs and bleeding the air gives the starter a break and bleeds the air out faster.
 

someoldmoose

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Just a suggestion, but have you started with the troubleshooting section in the -20 manual? Page 88 is where no start conditions begin.

You will need to follow a process of elimination to find the issue, and there may be more than one. Take it one step at a time and PROVE that the system being checked is good and functioning well enough.

These engines are compression ignition. They rely on the heat of compression of the air to ignite the fuel when it is injected into the combustion chamber. These engines use pre-combustion chambers. They require more initial heat when cold to ignite the fuel since they are "indirect injection". They need a minimum cranking speed and supplemental heat from the glow plugs in order to start reliably.

WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT USE ETHER (AKA STARTING FLUID) TO TRY TO START YOUR ENGINE AS YOU CAN CAUSE CATASTROPHIC DAMAGE.

You state you replaced the injection pump. Did you time it properly AND ensure that the lines are properly connected to the proper output on the pump and correct injector?

If you can, please take a video of you trying to start it up. Anything coming out of the exhaust? If someone else cranks it, do you hear audible puffs coming out the exhaust (indicating at least some compression).
Wait just a dog goned second !!! You mean there are resources that one can look up and use BEFORE getting on here and starting ANOTHER thread about something that has been covered many times ? Holy pfefferneuse !
:deadhorse:
 

Tinstar

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I start mine every day with no throttle. I do not like to wake a sleeping engine with RPM's. And if it has fuel present at each nozzle and glow plugs that are working it should start. Pull the glow plugs and crank it over real good and get all the air out of the fuel system. And like mentioned. Triple check the glow plugs and fuel system front to back for leaks. I use starting fluid when it is below zero and never had any issues. I just give it a wake up call while someone else is cranking. Never hurt any vehicles I know of. That is what they make the stuff for. The disclaimers are there because some guys spray paint the entire intake with starter fluid. I have seen plenums blown of power stroke Ford engines already. Pulling the glow plugs and bleeding the air gives the starter a break and bleeds the air out faster.
Neither do I, but since it's not running and all the things done to it so far, he might want to follow the GM recommend starting procedure.
 

scottladdy

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Neither do I, but since it's not running and all the things done to it so far, he might want to follow the GM recommend starting procedure.
At minimum, press and release the accelerator after turning the key to the "on" position (wait light is on) to set the fast idle and ignition advance for easier cold starting.

But I agree, aside from the above I do not need to hold the pedal down halfway to start the engine. They both pop in under 3 seconds +/- down to -10F.
 

Tinstar

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Yes
forgot about fast Idle
Mine kicks in even in summer.



When we first brought my M1008A1 back to life after years of sitting, after replacing/repairing lots of things, it would not start.
Cranked like a monster and had fuel, etc. New GPs, the whole bit.

Finally remembered to depress throttle a bit during start (GM recommended) and she fired right up.
Been running like a champ ever since.
 

pb1185

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Jacksonville, FL
Thank you again for all the advice, I have attempted many of the suggestions posted so far without luck. I have also researched before I posted and gone through the troubleshooting section(someoldmoose). I'm at the fire station the next 48 hours but will post a video as soon as I get home of the engine turning over.
 

drewzee87t

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MO ozarks
it's pretty funny, I forgot what the procedure was for priming fuel system. My 1028 has been offline since January as I was in hospital and holed up in a wheelchair until a couple weeks ago. The first thread on here always seems to be how to get fuel. The filter had lost prime. I just disco'd the solenoid and bled the filter. She then fired right up! Not sure if you even really need to crack injectors if you are getting fuel to the IP in order to get air out.

Thanks!!
 

Ando427

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San Diego, Ca
Are your resistors fully operational? When I first got my 1009 I installed all new GP's, replaced the relay and did the card bypass with a momentary on switch, I poked around with a multimeter and thought everything was good to go yet she just wouldn't start unless it was really warm and sunny out, and even then it required a lot of cranking. I installed a new fuel filter and bled the system, and contemplated replacing the injector pump since it was dribbling fuel. After banging my head against the wall and rechecking the GP system for the umpteenth time I realized my resistors were not resisting and I was just blowing out my glowplugs. I decided to bypass the resistors (there's a thread on that somewhere on here) rather than try and find new ones. Once I did that, she fired right up! Why I didn't catch it the first 20 times when following the TM troubleshooting guide I'm not sure, I swear I ran the same tests a million times, but oh well.

As a side note, my typical starting routine involves depressing the pedal while the key is on and glowplugs are warming, but not holding down the throttle during cranking. This method seems to be reliable for me in starting the old beast, even when she was buried in snow this winter, and it seems to effectively set the idle once warmed up.

Sidenote 2: During this whole startup issue I did resort to using starting fluid twice. My method was to spray the diesel starting fluid on a rag and have someone hold the rag in front of the air filter opening while I cranked the engine. Both times it worked, and caused no problems. Both times I was stuck out in the middle of nowhere with no other real options for how to get home so I deemed it was worth a shot. I disconnected the GP relay both times before attempting, not knowing that they weren't doing anything anyways.
 
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