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M1008 starting problem when warm?!!

dozenjeeps

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forestville, wisconsin
I recently bought a M1008 with 60000 miles........she starts good in this Wisconsin 20 degree weather but twice after driving 20 miles or so, I shut it off and it will not restart........turns over great but no fire..........wait couple hours and away it goes again........I am new to a diesel although I have a 2007 Dodge diesel dually, this is my first 6.2 in a old military truck, most of my experience is with gas MV'S..........Do I need a new relay or new Glow plugs??I have been on SS forums for about 2 hours and have learned alot about what to use but no idea where to start......I talked to two different repair garages today and both thought if its starts when its cold it should start easy after its warm..........well guess what?? mine does not...........will appreciate any advice I can get, I am not much of a mechanic but if its pretty easy will try to do it.......thanks
 

doghead

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You may have a bad IP. No start when hot, is a sign of that.
 

cpf240

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I agree with Doghead. One thing to try is to poor some water over the IP when hot and see if it starts. Could be the fuel shutoff solenoid doesn't work when hot. Could try to see if you can hear it click when the key is on... disconnect the pink wire, and see if it clicks when reconnected.
 

dozenjeeps

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forestville, wisconsin
thanks for the reply, now I need to know what a IP is and where..........should be able to find in one of the manuals....if it is it does anyone know where to buy a good one and not some knock off junk.....?? really like driving the beast, but not starting is a little embarassing ....thanks again
 

sschaefer3

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I had the same problem but after a shop installed an rebuilt IP. My issue was that they slid the connector on the pink wire on to the tab, but the tab was not in the connector just next to it, cold it was fine but in some temperature ranges it would not start. Got the connector slid on correctly and it seems to be fine now.
 

Warthog

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thanks for the reply, now I need to know what a IP is and where..........should be able to find in one of the manuals....if it is it does anyone know where to buy a good one and not some knock off junk.....?? really like driving the beast, but not starting is a little embarassing ....thanks again
You are joking right? You drive a couple of diesels and have never heard of the term IP? It is the Injector Pump. The part that supplies fuel to the cylinders.

Not many Chinese knock offs for the Stanadyne DB2 unit that is on the CUCV.

The part of the "IP" that may over heat is the Fuel Cutoff Solenoid that is on top of the pump. The "pink" wire plugs into it. With the key on, 12v energizes the solenoid allowing fuel to flow. Key off adn fuel flow stops.

Sometimes, usually in the summer, not winter, the coil will overheat and not work. Pouring water on it helps cool it and allow it to energize properly.

Being that this is the middle of winter, more than likely it isn't the problem, but it could be.

Spend the $400-$500 and have your "IP" rebuilt. It is 25+ years old and no telling what condition it is in.
 

dozenjeeps

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Location
forestville, wisconsin
Thanks Warthog, yeah I know IP is injection pump but I thought that it must have been something else, she starts great when its cold and was sitting for a week in the ice and snow and then runs great for 45 minutes all over.......turn it off and she won't start........firgured there must be some other meaning of IP......Oh well, now I have something to try to fix....Funny how it starts some of the time or I should say most of the time but once in a while just will not start..........let her sit and always starts after a few hours.....thanks again for the help.....
 

dozenjeeps

Member
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Location
forestville, wisconsin
I have decided to replace the IP, where is a good place to buy the stanadyne DB2, also do you know the part number?? I checked with a guy on epay and he said my core would not be any good ...so I guess my best bet is a dealer that just sells the IP without a exchange.........anybody have one thats good to sell??
 

antennaclimber

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I have the same problem with my 1008. Starts great when cold or hot. When it's warm it was very hard to start.

One time when it was warm and didn't want to start, I took a jumper wire and manually closed the glow plug relay for about 10 seconds, started right up.
So I suspect that the temperature sensor to the glow plug card was giving a resistance value to tell the card that the engine was warm enough to start without heating the glow plugs. When it's warm and hard to start, I did not get a Wait light indication.

I recently replaced the temperature sensor, but have not driven the truck since to see if this fixed the warm start issue.

You may want to try closing the GP relay the next time you experience a warm hard start and see if it helps any.
Karl
 

dozenjeeps

Member
173
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Location
forestville, wisconsin
Karl, I was out in the woods the other day making firewood, its aobut 15 minutes away.......parked the truck worked for about a hour and no start...............threw some snow on it and tried it and she started, not sure if that is what did it but it did start........left it run for the next hour and drove it home..........I just don't know what to do......I did notice the wait light did not go on.............only had the truck a little while and I do not know much about it.......thanks
 

truck1

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Ditto to others 2cents. I experienced same problem with my 1028. Replaced fuel shutoff solenoid in IP and problem solved. Part was about 110$,200 installed.I also replaced all GPs with ac60g's,new controller card ,GP relay,temp switch all from Cucvelectric,also did resistor bypass.All work done by me with lots of reference from threads and stickies on SS! Truck has been very reliable since. Cycles glow plugs fine,starts on one crank in all weather. Search here on SS.This is my first diesel and after 2 years of maintenance and upgrades I feel I have a basic understanding of this engine.Thanks SS for all the help.Would have been a lot more expensive and frustrating with out this site. OP you can also with help from the knowledge on this site and the TM's achieve the same reliability. Go through the systems of operation of your engine and your truck should be a reliable runner also.It can be done.Good luck.
 

Monkeyboyarmy

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Kingsville,Oh.
The thing to look for when it doesn't start is to see if there is smoke coming out of the tail pipes. If there is, most likely the IP is somewhat good. Engine may be down on compression and not be making enough heat to light the fuel. Try to manually cycle glow plugs and see if it starts.
 

epartsman

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Jacksonville/Florida
I have decided to replace the IP, where is a good place to buy the stanadyne DB2, also do you know the part number?? I checked with a guy on epay and he said my core would not be any good ...so I guess my best bet is a dealer that just sells the IP without a exchange.........anybody have one thats good to sell??
When its not starting crack an injector line to see if you are getting fuel at the injector and if not you need a new pump or bare minimum a solenoid. If it runs at all your core is good. Forget epay. See if you can find a local shop that has a good rep like I did and have yours rebuilt or make sure if for some strange reason they cannot rebuild yours you get the latest military revision which i believe for our trucks is a 4502 which I am using in mine. If you need to go long distance there is a great shop I used here in Jax. You can check out my post http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?90047-Pop-went-the-weasel-Any-ideas . Parts
 
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dozenjeeps

Member
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Location
forestville, wisconsin
I have found a Stanadyne DB2 4502 ip, is this the correct pump for the M-1008 TRUCK?? Did not take mine off yet, but decided to replace it and start fresh as I like the truck.......thanks
 

chevyCUCV

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How is your cranking speed?

And try to pour warm water over the ip when it wont start, then start it up. If it starts then you have a worn ip.
 

ranchhopper

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south elgin illinois
Had the same problem went to a manual push button GP system and that solved the problem it gets to a point where its still to warm to activate the GP system but to cold to start so I added the push button start. When it wouldnt start five or ten seconds with the GPs activated and it started up every time now I convert all my glow plug systems to manual push button after buying a new truck.
 

dozenjeeps

Member
173
3
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Location
forestville, wisconsin
cranking speed is great, have two new batteries........I have a 4502 Injector pump coming, one person on SS said that was ther correct one....hope it is............decided to keep the truck and just start replacing the IP, GLOW PLUGS etc, just to have good starts and the truck is old.............
 

biggrizz51

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york,me
i had the same problem with mine. its the temp sensor for the glow plugs. theres a tsb from gm for this but the new sensor does the same thing. the 6.2 needs the glow plugs to come on more often when warm when they have some mileage on them. if you unplug the sensor which is on drivers side of the intake at the back of the engine your glow plugs will automaticlly come on for about 20 or 30 seconds and the light will go out and the engine will fire right up. i cut one of those wires and ran it to a switch i mounted in cab and then back to the sensor. when the truck has been off for 40 minutes to a hr or more just flick the switch for 10 seconds and shut the switch off and she will fire right up. mine has been this way for years with no issues. just dont forget to shut the switch off or you will fry your glow plugs
 
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