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M1008 wont start

mikeyd

New member
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Spain
Hello,

I just acquired a 85 CUCV M1008 which wasn't running. I was told it needed a new starter, got one replaced it and it worked fine for about 2 days. Went to start it and the vehicle started and the starter stayed engaged. Towed the vehicle back. I attempted to start her up and would get the buzzer and wait light, but then when I went to turn it over it would click once. Turn it back off and it would continue to click. charged the batteries, swapped out the 2 relays under the dash, nothing.... Swapped out the starter relay ( 4 post terminal on firewall) with a known good one. Now the buzzer doesn't go on and I blow the 20 amp engine control fuse.
I'm at a lose of what to do next... Any ideas?
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Check out the helpful threads stickies for the one with fusible links. They often burn as a result of a starter run on. Likely, that will turn up the issue. Good luck.
 

royalflush55

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Reydon, OK
It sounds like your starter drive could still be engaged in the flywheel and didn't release when it started. This starter could possibly have been damaged with the run on and may need to be replaced again.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
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Hello,
Swapped out the starter relay ( 4 post terminal on firewall) with a known good one.
There is no starter relay on the firewall.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
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Location
Virginia
Swapped out the starter relay ( 4 post terminal on firewall) with a known good one. Now the buzzer doesn't go on and I blow the 20 amp engine control fuse.

Known good.... but how is it grounded? does it ground through the body?


And the "2 relays under the dash" that you swapped out - do you know for sure they are electrically compatible? Or do they just look the same?
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
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Jonestown Pennsylvania
[h=2]
Starter relay[/h]
Starter relay is located inside the cab up behind the radio plate. It is held in place by the 3 -7/16" hex head 1/4" bolts above the gas pedal. remove them 3 bolts and drop the angle bracket down. The silver metal rectangular box is the starter relay.It is held on by one 7 mm headed screw. Make sure you have good strong batteries that have been fully charged and load tested. Also check and make sure the starter is not in need of a shim. It could be stuck in the flex-plate and cannot become disengaged. These are also know for that issue. Is the starter support bracket in place. That can cause a lock up in the flywheel and starter if the starter were to twist on the front main bolts. Not every starter failure is caused by the starter relay. The starter relay is easily replaced and you just plug a new one in or just begin cutting wires and redesign the relay. The choice is yours. PM me I will help you thru this issue. I have never had any issues that a new $15. relay did not solve. Good Luck and don't be discouraged. It is a good truck but at this age a few things need to be addressed to make it better. And please no cutting wiring and by passes. IMHO it will work fine exactly the way it was built 30 + years ago. No design changes needed. Have a great day.
 

PJL

Member
140
6
18
Location
Way south of Seattle, WA
After you swapped the glow plug relay you lost the engine control fuse. I suspect the black/pink wire that goes to the GP relay is now shorted to ground. For your convenience I have attached the glow plug system troubleshooting guide. Read up on it, correct the shorted wire issue then with CUCVRS's generous offer of help the truck will be running again in no time. View attachment CUCV_Glow_Plug_System_Diagnosis_and_Troubleshooting.pdf
 

mikeyd

New member
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0
0
Location
Spain
Okay, so I've looked through a lot of the threads and I still cant crack this problem.

Right now the current issue is as follows...

as soon as I attempt to move the ignition to on, it blows the 20 amp fuse for ENG. CON... I've replaced it a few times, and it just keeps blowing them.
where do I go from here???? any suggestions....

I can't get past the part to continue troubleshooting the starter issue. Or is this all tied together? Is a bad starter causing this?

Thanks!
 

Haoleb

Member
197
6
18
Location
Raymond, Maine
Okay, so I've looked through a lot of the threads and I still cant crack this problem.

Right now the current issue is as follows...

as soon as I attempt to move the ignition to on, it blows the 20 amp fuse for ENG. CON... I've replaced it a few times, and it just keeps blowing them.
where do I go from here???? any suggestions....

I can't get past the part to continue troubleshooting the starter issue. Or is this all tied together? Is a bad starter causing this?

Thanks!
If it were me I would find out what items are connected to the ignition ON circuitry, And start disconnecting those items. I would probably either disconnect all of them. Or start with the most likely ones (depending on how many fuses you want to blow)

Then you should be able to turn the ignition and and no fuse blown since there is nothing connected. Start hooking things back up one at a time. Eventually you will plug one back in that blows the fuse. Now you know where to focus your attention.
 

richingalveston

Well-known member
1,715
120
63
Location
galveston/Texas
sounds like your starter run on burned up some things in the fuse box or elsewhere. Look at other starter run on threads and it may help, some people had to swap wiring harness, some had to replace fuse box.

starter run on can do some bad things that is why the doghead mod is so important.
 
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