M1009 Floor Pan Replacement

[donalloy1]

Ok, time for the tough project in my mind. SS'ers, please help me with proper way to replace floor pan in M1009! I am very good with working steel, but have not done much auto body work. Have replacement sheet metal, welder and all power tools I should require. Would rather take my time and do it right than hack it! ALL hints, procedures, processes etc... etc... WILL be appreciated. Thanks, DMLII sends...

 

[hndrsonj]

Replace only what you have to. Just because you have a big replacement panel does not mean you have to cut out that big of a piece. Measure twice cut once. Are you going to leave a little overlap or try to butt the pieces together?

 

[donalloy1]

i like your advice. instead of cutting out material to facilitate replacement piece. just cut out what is damaged and fabricate patch panels? should be able to accomplish that. plan on overlapping. rather it not look like a quilt when done though. pretty extensive behind, underneath and on door side of both seats. dml2 sends...

 

[DXTAC]

I have the same issue. I have about 3 maybe 4 areas that I need to replace. I have a good friend that owns a body shop and I brought it to him and he said cut out what needs to be replaced and use epoxy to fasten it back in. No shops really weld panels/floors on/in anymore with a few exceptions and for aesthetics in some areas. He told me to use 3M Automix Panel Bonding adhesive. HERE is a great video. This is what I'm gonna do - eventually!!

Thanks,

 

[Boss Doug]

Take before and after photos!! For you and us.

 

[donalloy1]

great advice will check out 3m product. do they use plasma cutter to remove damage or other?

 

[donalloy1]

will take many pics of before and after. wife does not care for paint job ( woodland camo ). finally got her to drive it though yesterday. pretty much have completely gone over service issues. feel comfortable w/her driving now. cannot wait to finish removing cancer. dml2 sends...

 

[rnd-motorsports]

I agree for a small repair! 3m makes a great product. But are for the cars of today,parts are lighter some plastic and most are assembled that way , For larger area's I would still weld the panel.

 

[DXTAC]

He uses a cutting wheel most of the time as fuel lines, brake lines, frame rails, unibody etc. run beneath the floors. I guess if you're sure nothing is under the area you are cutting use the plasma cutter.

Most of the repairs I am going to be making over the winter will be shoebox sized or smaller but he uses it for larger pans as well. I asked him and he said he's never had a complaint or had to re-repair a job due to the epoxy letting loose. He said it unbelievably tough stuff and when done right the areas around the epoxied seams will give before the epoxy itself. I'll post pics as I do mine but that's gonna be a while.

 

[mr.travo]

Keep us updated on your progress. I need to do some floor pan work myself in my 1009.

 

[DXTAC]

After a visit back to my buddies body shop I have decided to just do the small repairs myself. I went to a Rhinoliner and Line X shop and I will be going with the Line X as it is MUCH thicker and will be better in the long run for sound deadening. The Rhinoliner was just TOO thin. Also, he said he can build it up in areas to slope to the doors for drainage and leave some plugged drain holes for easy cleaning!! All for $600.00!!!!!! I just have to have everything out of it except 1 seat.

Thx,

 

[mr.travo]

Need pictures

 

[Milkman357]

3M adhesive...

It looks pretty slick...

but

I am pretty confident in my metal skills (A&P Mechanic) so I think I will weld..

Did you get your floor panels from LMC?

Good advice.. only cut out what you need to cut out.

Any Pictures yet?

Looks like for around $350 I can get a new floor.. and extend service life another 20 years! lol

 

[camoyj7]

Replacing the whole floor is a big job and a pain in the a$$. I did the full floors on a 71 Challenger and I don't think it worth the time unless you are building a show car.