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When I picked up my ex-fire dept. M1010 the electrical was the usual mess with wires and switches all over. They could not figure out the drain on the batteries so they installed a switch on the 12v side and one on the 24v side. They also had a fairly large harness of wires running to lights/sirens etc. Luckily they did not cut or splice anything, they just unhooked and added. Somehow when it was jump started by them it also fried the glowplug card and all the glowplugs were bad.
First thing I did was remove all of the extra wiring and get back to original, next removed the DUVAC box and taped off the connections. The top alternator was already gone so that saved me a step, taped off the wiring there as well. Next I made mounting brackets for the Vanner battery equalizer and mounted it next to the rear battery. I made the mounting points captive to make it easy to remove if necessary. Installing here shortened up the leads and made for room for the washer bottle in it's original location. I used the fusible link wire from the DUVAC for the equalizer and it works quite well. It took a couple of days for the batteries to equalize and the green led to go out when not in use.
Next was the steady 12v draw on the battery, it was the A/C pump pulley energized all the time. While installing the negative battery terminal and watching it arc I noticed the pulley going in/out. Traced it back to the relay under the bench and found the relay to be closed all the time. Took the relay apart and found a fried diode passing the voltage through.
It does take some time with these 1010's but with some help here from SS you can figure it out. It now works correctly with no drain or any need for disconnect switches, the way it should be. Thanks Lavarock and Keith_j for the extra help. Next hurdle is to get rid of the red paint!
First thing I did was remove all of the extra wiring and get back to original, next removed the DUVAC box and taped off the connections. The top alternator was already gone so that saved me a step, taped off the wiring there as well. Next I made mounting brackets for the Vanner battery equalizer and mounted it next to the rear battery. I made the mounting points captive to make it easy to remove if necessary. Installing here shortened up the leads and made for room for the washer bottle in it's original location. I used the fusible link wire from the DUVAC for the equalizer and it works quite well. It took a couple of days for the batteries to equalize and the green led to go out when not in use.
Next was the steady 12v draw on the battery, it was the A/C pump pulley energized all the time. While installing the negative battery terminal and watching it arc I noticed the pulley going in/out. Traced it back to the relay under the bench and found the relay to be closed all the time. Took the relay apart and found a fried diode passing the voltage through.
It does take some time with these 1010's but with some help here from SS you can figure it out. It now works correctly with no drain or any need for disconnect switches, the way it should be. Thanks Lavarock and Keith_j for the extra help. Next hurdle is to get rid of the red paint!
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