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M101A1 axle/wheel replacement and dump conversion

stanward

New member
6
0
1
Location
Keaau, HI
Hello All,

I have a M101A1 trailer and want to convert the axle over to electric brakes as well as changing the hubs to 6x5.5. I am hoping I can reduce some of the overall weight by doing this, as well as add some safety too.

I also was wondering if anyone have plans on adding a 12V pump and hydraulic ram to convert this trailer into a dumper? I believe a new subframe will need to be welded as well.

Thanks,
Stan
 

aleigh

Well-known member
1,040
52
48
Location
Phoenix, AZ & Seattle, WA
The axle swap is easy. Just call up a company like Dexter and tell them the length you want (face to face).

As for a hydro dump, I've never seen anything like that, but anything is possible. But be aware the dump feature was never a dump feature. Really the trailer is supposed to fold so that it can be stowed using less square footage. This is illustrated on the data plates if you still have them and they are legible although curiously not covered in the TM IIRC. In any event since the trailer was not intended to dump, or dump with a load, some re-enforcing may be required.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
4,524
816
113
Location
Virginia
Welcome! :beer:

I'm quite sure you can make a dumper out of it, but not with the existing pivot points. As mentioned, the are there for dropping the tongue so that trailers can be 'nested' close together for shipping and storage purposes. The alignment isn't right for dumping, and many people have broken their trailers by dumping with them.

And.... others have dumped with them for years and had no problem. Go figure.

I think if you can weld you can build a sub-frame with its own pivots and have a full on dumper, but that's quite a project. It's not just adding a cylinder and a few reinforcements.
 

11Echo

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,225
92
48
Location
CT W. R.
Hello All,

I have a M101A1 trailer and want to convert the axle over to electric brakes as well as changing the hubs to 6x5.5. I am hoping I can reduce some of the overall weight by doing this, as well as add some safety too.

I also was wondering if anyone have plans on adding a 12V pump and hydraulic ram to convert this trailer into a dumper? I believe a new subframe will need to be welded as well.

Thanks,
Stan

A couple pics of a site members build in 2008.
Maybe something similar would work for your model trailer.
 

Attachments

wvu dodge

Member
42
3
6
Location
Fairmont, WV
I turned my m101 a1 into a dump trailer a couple years ago. I did just what you are describing. I built a subframe from 3 inch channel and mounted the bed to that.

I chopped the factory frame off right behind the factory rear spring hangers and added a new crossmember with the hinges.

Bought a 12v hydraulic power pack and battery and jack. Used 1.25 sch 40 pipe and 1.375 inch round rod for hinges...fit perfect.

I sized it to dump 2 tons, and I've done it a few times. Problems are it sits too high, and I made it sit 3 inches higher, so made it worse. Also, tires sidewalls want to fold over around turns at even a mild speed with a 1 ton load. And no brakes. All of those things could be alleviated if I buy a new 7k drop axle with electric brakes and some dodge truck tires

I spent exactly $1050 doing all of the above, keeping the same axle. And I bought every piece of steel and component I used. Even the tongue mounted toolbox

So yes it can be done. I did it just for a project, didn't have a real need for it, and haven't touched it in at least a year. It dumps at 47 degree angle. I drew it in auto cad and played with the geometries to find the right lengths and mounting points for the hydraulic jack, and did all the math to make sure it would actually dump 2 ton + 25% with the geometry I had
 

wvu dodge

Member
42
3
6
Location
Fairmont, WV
Also the springs aren't really stout enough for heavy loads. Shortly after I built it I filled it up with firewood stacked above the factory wood sideboards. Don't know the weight but it was a lot of wood. It sat loaded like that for a month at least with the springs at a negative arch.

I was able to dump it out without destroying anything, but the springs have never recovered. If I were to change the axle, I would buy new leaf springs for it. That was just too much, for too long on the 40yr old springs
 

stanward

New member
6
0
1
Location
Keaau, HI
Also the springs aren't really stout enough for heavy loads. Shortly after I built it I filled it up with firewood stacked above the factory wood sideboards. Don't know the weight but it was a lot of wood. It sat loaded like that for a month at least with the springs at a negative arch.

I was able to dump it out without destroying anything, but the springs have never recovered. If I were to change the axle, I would buy new leaf springs for it. That was just too much, for too long on the 40yr old springs
Thank you so much for your response!

Would you mind sharing pictures?
 

wvu dodge

Member
42
3
6
Location
Fairmont, WV
Are those pictures showing up? I can see them, but this is the first time I've been able to post pictures on this board. Would never work before, but now I have a smart phone so it's a little easier

I also cut 1.5 inches out of each fender well and welded back together, then patched the floor back in. Gives you 48.5 inches between fenders

If you can see those pictures, that is how she sits right now, I just took them
 

wvu dodge

Member
42
3
6
Location
Fairmont, WV
These are not very heavy built trailers like people think. If I were to do it again, I would do the same thing, but start with an M105, and figure on swapping the axle out for a 7k drop axle right off the bat

You would get more volume, and a better frame and springs. Then use 4 inch channel or 2x4 box tube for the subframe, and size the hydraulics appropriately to dump whatever you want to haul
 
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