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M1028 Alternator upgrade????

Recovry4x4

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Unless you have a specific requirement for more juice, then no. Are these Powermaster alts isolated grounds? If you have a need for winch power, a 24V winch is a great choice. It all depends on your needs.
 

Sharecropper

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A Mile Marker hydraulic winch uses no electric power and is driven by the power steering pump.
 

Drock

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I have bin thinking about ah winch ,and maybe ah light bar in the future. I've used power master alt's for my hotrods, and they've worked really well. Especially on car's with under drive pulleys (at idle). They'll make them for almost anything.
 

Drock

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Well I figured ah good warn winch, which I have no idea how much power one pulls? And one of those box style LED light bars on the front. And perhaps some sort of swiveling work lights on the roof. As a side note I'm also considering one of those arc welders that bolt to the engine in place of one alternator. Maybe not but I can dream ;)
 

Keith_J

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Definitely go 24 volt for a winch, you can use the NATO port up front. Remember, power is current x voltage, doubling the voltage halves the required current.

You only need properly functioning 100 amp alternators for any 24 volt winch you can find. You need good batteries too.
 

Csm Davis

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Is there any benefit to upgrading the alternators to ah higher amp? For instance (Power master) 200 amp?
Do they offer a isolated ground unit? I think there is no such thing as to much available amperage if the units can be easily fit to the engine but there is a point around 200 amps at 24v that you can get enough draw to shut the engine down which can be a pain in the wrong situation.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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I think there is no such thing as to much available amperage if the units can be easily fit to the engine

Electricty from alternators isn't free. Every alternator puts some load on the engine, which is paid for in fuel. Putting in a huge alternator when you'll never use all the juice is just throwing money away.


but there is a point around 200 amps at 24v that you can get enough draw to shut the engine down which can be a pain in the wrong situation.

That almost sounds like too much available amperage. ;)
 

Skinny

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The current draw will take horsepower but the alternator only takes so much current for the fielding circuit to keep system voltage at a set point. In other words, the alternator isn't consuming horsepower all the time, only when it's pumping electrons which is under load.
 

Mike929

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In regards to the alternator upgrades, what about the Dual 100A/50A - 24v/12v set ups if you were planning on adding a 12v circuit? I was thinking this would be perfect until I saw the price, now I am backing away slowly. I think the one I saw was over $1700 just for the alternator. Wondering if adding a separate 12v alternator would be just as good.

I most likely have a burned out regulator in my present 60amp alternator, so I was looking at options before investing in parts for my present unit.
 

Csm Davis

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Electricty from alternators isn't free. Every alternator puts some load on the engine, which is paid for in fuel. Putting in a huge alternator when you'll never use all the juice is just throwing money away.
As stated above only pulls extra hp when pulling an electrical load.
That almost sounds like too much available amperage. ;)
Yeah almost so far only have shutdown my 1010 at idle slaving off 5 tons, if I have someone to help by keeping the idle up it doesn't kill the 1010, so not quite to much.
The best setup for the OP maybe to add only one high amp alternator in place of the one that supplies the 12v for the truck as it doesn't have to be an isolated ground alternator.
 
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Keith_J

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Depending on the alternator, most designs utilize output from the diode trio (not the 6 diode bridge main output) to drive the field. At idle speed, most are only capable of putting out 60% of rated current before the voltage drop in the stator limits field strength which prevents overloading the engine.

With good batteries, you shouldn't worry about stock 100 amp 24 volt dual 27SI alternators on jump starting anything. For one, even 25 foot NATO cables have enough resistance to prevent bogging down the system. But if you have weak batteries, it can cause the fuel shutoff solenoid to trip due to low voltage.
 

Csm Davis

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Depending on the alternator, most designs utilize output from the diode trio (not the 6 diode bridge main output) to drive the field. At idle speed, most are only capable of putting out 60% of rated current before the voltage drop in the stator limits field strength which prevents overloading the engine.

With good batteries, you shouldn't worry about stock 100 amp 24 volt dual 27SI alternators on jump starting anything. For one, even 25 foot NATO cables have enough resistance to prevent bogging down the system. But if you have weak batteries, it can cause the fuel shutoff solenoid to trip due to low voltage.
These are not Delcos on a 1010 and it is 2 100 amp 24v alts with good batteries and cables and it will stall the truck not shut it off. The little alts on a 1009 or 1008 won't do this as they are 2 100 amp 12v and not nearly as strong, in fact half as much amperage as the 1010.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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As stated above only pulls extra hp when pulling an electrical load.
Not true.

There's a difference even at idle. The difference is small, but it's there. A higher capacity alternator needs heavier components. That directly translates to more fuel to turn them.

The big difference comes when a load is applied, of course, but you still pay a small price in fuel for a larger capacity alternator, even if you never use the extra capacity.
 
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