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M1031 PTO Gen.... Almost working.. Need some advice

TechnoWeenie

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After crawling under the truck and looking at all the safety switches....and realizing that privates painting trucks is a bad idea.. I decided to provide power directly to the controllers, bypassing all switches.

The generator is engaged, the idle raises maybe 100 to 200 rpm or so.... And... Nada... I can get the gen to work with soldier B but that's not gonna work...

I've looked at all the controller manuals and can't make heads or tails of it... I can kinda see what they're trying to do but none of the pots make any changes... Idle... Ramp speed... Nothing...

I don't wanna give up yet as $400 to b4thunder for the other controller wasn't in the plan, and I like troubleshooting...

What should I be looking for if the idle raises a little but not enough?
 

diesel583

Member
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N E Okla.
Make sure the switch on the shifter under the master cylinder is closing when in drive. The switch on the pto must be closed also
 

diesel583

Member
177
4
18
Location
N E Okla.
Mine is in the pto housing it tells the controller when it is in gear and lights a dash light. When the controller gets the signal and the signal from the shifter switch it tells the governor to increase rpm. The rpms should be adjusted to give 60 cycles on the meter on the control panel. There should be a wiring diagram on the control panel door, where you put diesel in the truck.
 

Skinny

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Location
Portsmouth, NH
First I would not bypass the safety switches. They are easily obtainable and really keep things from getting messed up. Spend a little time cleaning and adjusting here. As for the rest of it, my recommendation is stop wasting any more time with it and just spend the money for the controller. Check the speed sensor like mentioned above as you will need it along with the basic power inputs from the idle up switch. Gut the rest and get the digital controller. I got mine to work and then it would stop or act crazy. It would go away if you hit the box or pull on wires indicating a loose internal connection. It gets boring and you know its gonna leave you stranded when you actually need to use the generator. To me that isn't worth saving the $400.
 

rossbart

Member
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Location
Waurika, Oklahoma
First I would not bypass the safety switches. They are easily obtainable and really keep things from getting messed up. Spend a little time cleaning and adjusting here. As for the rest of it, my recommendation is stop wasting any more time with it and just spend the money for the controller. Check the speed sensor like mentioned above as you will need it along with the basic power inputs from the idle up switch. Gut the rest and get the digital controller. I got mine to work and then it would stop or act crazy. It would go away if you hit the box or pull on wires indicating a loose internal connection. It gets boring and you know its gonna leave you stranded when you actually need to use the generator. To me that isn't worth saving the $400.
I realize this is an older post but hoping someone can lead me to some help on obtaining one of the mentioned, new controllers? I just recently bought a slick, rust free M1031 with 32,000 miles. Tight truck but the generator is not dependable. Sometimes works perfect. Sometimes won’t govern at all. Sometimes won’t make electricity OR govern?
I’d gladly pay $400 (or more) to get it working reliably. Where does one go to get a modern controller, properly configured?
Thanks in advance for any assistance...
 

Skinny

Well-known member
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488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Funny that I happened to be on my tablet and saw a notification on this.

You want a controller from B4Thundr. Not sure if he is still selling them. Maybe try a PM. I know a lot of people gave him flac for trying to sell them which is just dumb. Try and track him down amd give him money!

Worst case you will have to get one and program it. Will probably need the tooth count on the gear in the PTO that the speed sensor reads.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
 

rossbart

Member
69
34
18
Location
Waurika, Oklahoma
Funny that I happened to be on my tablet and saw a notification on this.

You want a controller from B4Thundr. Not sure if he is still selling them. Maybe try a PM. I know a lot of people gave him flac for trying to sell them which is just dumb. Try and track him down amd give him money!

Worst case you will have to get one and program it. Will probably need the tooth count on the gear in the PTO that the speed sensor reads.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
Haha. Maybe fate working for me...
Thanks for the lead. I will message him. But, looks kind of like B4Thundr has been pretty silent since about 2017. But, I’ll give it a try.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
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Location
Portsmouth, NH
Good luck

His kit was turn key bolt in. Hope you get a hold of him. I'll see if I can find my paperwork. I coule swear his cell number was on it.

Dont feel bad if you cant get it. There are a ton of options out there.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
 

rossbart

Member
69
34
18
Location
Waurika, Oklahoma
Good luck

His kit was turn key bolt in. Hope you get a hold of him. I'll see if I can find my paperwork. I coule swear his cell number was on it.

Dont feel bad if you cant get it. There are a ton of options out there.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
Would be awesome if he’s still selling them. If, by chance, you come across his contact info I’d love to reach out to him.
I also saw another post from just a couple months ago mentioning a SS member named Doug that set up a controller for another member. I’ve inquired of that poster as well.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
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Location
Schertz TX
The issues I have had with mine have been install related. The first being the power to the injection pump was connected to the green wire for timing advance and high idle. It was always supplying power to this circuit instead of the pink wire. The purpose of this circuit is emergency kill of the engine if overspeed condition occurred.
The second issue was incorrect alignment of the actuator to the throttle. This didn't provide adequate throttle.
The final issue was too much resistance in the power supply, causing low voltage to the system. I replaced the in line barrel fuse with a blade type, cleaned all the switches and relay contacts.

Test voltage at all points to find the issue, the actuator under the hood moves the throttle based on current. Voltage drives current so any voltage losses will mean a non operating system because the controller only has 12 volts.

The other big issue is the controller mount. Any time it is touched, alignment can be altered. Likewise with the injection pump.
 

frank8003

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Oh, now I ssee why it is desirable
 

Skinny

Well-known member
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Location
Portsmouth, NH
Control boards are as old as me. They are just unreliable at this point. Sure all that other stuff is important but the almost 40 year old circuitry is junk.

Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
 
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