M1083 camper conversion idea......everything powered by diesel?

[Camel Driver]

One of the requirements I want to stay with is that everything on or in the truck runs on diesel or the RV batteries.

I have the main camper heat taken care of with a Webasto Airtop bunk heater. We actually have one now in our retired AT&T truck camper conversion. It is an awesome little unit about the size of a shoe box and we are very happy with it. They are on the expensive side but in our case it was definitely worth the cost.

https://www.webasto.com/us/markets-...uck/heating-systems/products/air-top-2000-st/

and something like the cook stove made by Wallas which is a stove and space heater combo. It would be a great unit as it could be used as a backup heater or as additional heat if needed on a very cold day during a winter trip.

Seems a bit on the expensive side but, (YIKES, they are more than a "bit" expensive) we will only have to buy it once.​

http://www.wallas.fi/index.php?id=81

My only problem is the fridge. I've only been able to find one manufacturer of "KEROSINE" powered fridge/freezer units. (Not exactly sure if they will handle diesel) And they are not designed for camper use. Although, they are very simple and rugged and I'm under the impression that they are somewhat popular with the Amish community because of this. But these units have been discontinued by the manufacturer, Servel/Dometic. Does anyone by chance know of another manufacturer of kerosene/diesel fridge freezers? I've been searching but haven't found anything.

We could use a small diesel generator to run the fridge but I was hoping to stay away from the added complexity and cost

. Also, once we find some rural property, we will have a large generator on a trailer for power. More than enough to set up a "shore line". So why drag a generator along in the truck if we don't have to?

Solar panels to run fridge? But again, that is more complexity and expense. And on top of that, I know Jack poo-poo about solar!

So, any ideas or experience with the fridge/freezer options would be greatly appreciated. I definitely have a little time to figure it out but, that sort of stuff needs to be decided before I start welding the frame for the camper conversion.
​

Ha, boy oh boy I have a LOT of stuff to get settled with this project. It will definitely put my skills to the test!
I'm sure there are a few of you guys that are probably thinking, "why not go to an RV site and ask this?" To be totally honest, I have done that on other subjects and, those folks.........Bless their little hearts. They truely scare me with some of their ideas. Trust me, the information here is better, with a lot more effort in the thought process. It's pretty darn scary at some of those homebuilt RV sites. Be afraid, be VERY afraid! I've actually seen a video of someone using a bumper pull hitch, on a fifth wheel RV that was towed backwards. Freaking....... unbelievably........ DANGEROUS! And most of the site's members figured it was OK and that he "just needs to move some weight around". Really? The entire back end of the SUV was topped out on the suspension and I doubt there was enough weight to move so it would ride right. Crazy people they are!
Thanks in advance fellas, for helping me kick around a few ideas!
Bill

 

[coachgeo]

funny...... we are in same point Heck even my motorcycle that will go with me is diesel powered...... Been wanting to go all diesel and studying this too yet come into it with a long background in biodiesel and waste veg. oil study too so am more aware than most of oil combustion theory/techniques.

Heat: My hydronic heat will be a poor mans Webasto/Espar.... aka 1980's era NOS us military coolant heater. But this will NOT be my primary day use heater when parked. Only short term heating for night stops on long driving trips to a destination where will camp for many days. Also to warm engine prior to leaving. Will be installing a small multi-fuel arctic heater that can burn waste oil/Kero/diesel or wood/charcoal/bio-char etc.. This will be primary heat at camp.

Fridge: Going solar...... Huge roof.. lots of solar space. The 12v compressor fridges are very efficient and do NOT pull that much power. They work extremely well with solar. You can do it too. Not that complicated in the long run. If you can figure out an FMTV by reading forums you can figure out solar. With space used on top camper box and even one on top of cab as well if you want to go whole hog. Absolutely no need to go diesel for this.

As to why not diesel..... One they do not make such an animal; two.. diesel is NOT kerosene... As a burner fuel.... end result is the combustion / burn between kero and diesel is very different even with low sulfur. Mostly due to additives. Thus something designed for kero end up working very very poor with diesel. With diesel you get a lot of coking and other by products left over from incomplete combustion that conflict with future combustion. This ends up creating an ever increasing cycle of inefficiency in combustion and a lot of maintenance and parts replacing.

note- the Kerosene refrigerators are absorption refrigerators and my research seems to shows they actually use a wick like a kerosene lamp. Would be fine in a garage with ventilation. HORRIBLE in a moving vehicle. Example: by design a wick setup will give high probability of spilled fuel from where wick protrudes the soaking cup, when mounted in a non stationary environment. Also, absorption refrigerator is what the older RV's used that were one or two fueled. (electric and propane). They also MUST be rather level for the evaporation process to gain any useful bit of cooling efficiency. I use to sell 12v/Propane absorption fridge coolers by Dometic to off roaders but suggested a simple hanging gimble mount. About same time the 12v compressor fridges hit the market. They are soooooo much better.



Cook stove: The Wallas like your link or other high dollar RV marine ceramic/glass top seem to work.... any other burner type !!! forget diesel !!. I wanted sooooooo bad to go this route..... but reality ended up... there are many inexpensive and expensive burner type units out there that will "work" on diesel.... butttt... working and "working well" enough are two different things. They Work.. but horribly. Ton of maintenance to keep them going too. Been in discussion of late with a kerosene / multi fuel burner stove expert whom has tried them all on diesel.... from Marine stoves to backpacking stoves over last couple decades.... hands on experience... they all work horrible on diesel is his experience. (he rebuilds and upgrades stove burners professionally) BUTTTT that does not count the massive expensive ceramic or glass top diesel stoves of the Wallas you mention. They seem to work. Whole different technology in their burners. NOt sure their heat production systems... I think catalytic?? They are NOT Babington or even nozzle jet.

Have not decided yet what route I will go here. More research to do. Even considering URINE. Via electrolysis it produces hydrogen easier than water plus catalyst and at lower voltages. Urine is obviously waste product that one is going to get rid of anyway. But this is new.. still in experiment, unproven stage of development. Could also use it to improve combustion in our low MPG engines!!!! if I can get it to work.



Diesel GenSet..... I will have one but will use it RARELY. More than rarely is a NO GO unless you pay massive big bucks for so called silent boxed ones... diesel gensets are LOUD in a silent Forrest. Campers from mile away will seek you out and hang you from nearest branch or bury you in a hole if no trees around and you will have earned it. Camp neighbors do not even like gas gensets and they are 1/3 the decibels. They, like you are their to camp in peace and silence of nature. Myself have lived off grid with a diesel gen set.... It is NOT an option for more than occasional use unless you go high high dollar ones and then you only get a few more hours before folk come beating down your door. The echo / reverberation sounds carry and carry on for miles.

 

[Duckworthe]

"I'm sure there are a few of you guys that are probably thinking, "why not go to an RV site and ask this?"
Bill,
Sounds like you have a great project coming along. I agree with your comments about talking to the RV sales people. I have talked to them also and found that they can sell you every product in their stores but have no idea what their products even do or how they work. " water heater? is that to heat water or something?" LMAO!

 

[Aernan]

Here are my current ideas. GO Diesel!

heating:
in floor hydronic with radiators and forced air. Primary heat from water/water heat exchanger from engine. Secondary heat from a diesel hydronic furnace. Webasto probably. After heating goes to a "calorifier" (hot water tank) where it heats potable water for shower, sink.

Fridge:
Most likely 3 engles electric fridges running on DC only. Can set fridge to fridge or freezer or off. Top loading to avoid dumping cold every time you open them. I am avoiding propane powered fridges because it turns out they are the main reason for RVs to burn to the ground.

Cooking:
3-4 burner "hob" running on propane. It's clean and filling a tank is cheap and common in the USA. Since I will need so little of it because I'm not heating space or water with it I expect it to last quite a while. Diesel cooktops do exist for boats but I have heard they are very expensive. I just like cooking on gas and personally hate electric.
- Electric Microwave, Electric hot water kettle, maybe an oven depends on space/cost.

Power:
48 V DC LiPo or LiFePo4 custom pack. Sized to run AC full load + all lights + network gear for 2-3 days.
- Primary 12V to 48V DC inverter based charger to BMS from main alternator when running.
- Secondary roof full of solar panels with charger controller. Probably 4-6 350 Watt panels.
- Tertiary 120/240 VAC to 48V DC inverter based charger. Last option diesel generator.
- People seem to like the fully silenced Onan which has a hemi in it. I'm assuming that if I make a double box with vents I can get the noise to near zero. I can post links to designs for silencing shop compressors. May end up upgrading the main generator to 200 Amp to get 12V 100 Amp continuous but I need to do more math.

Cooling/Heating (space):
mitsubishi mini split unit (hacked). Open unit and find the internal 48 V DC circuit and direct DC - DC connect house battery. Can operate as a "heat pump" which is amazingly efficient way of getting heat.

 

[FHIV]

Aernan,
For the domestic water source use a multi plate heat exchanger. This is what I used in my M1079. I connected it to a radiant floor heating manifold which is heated by a Webasto coolant heater. This method provides an unlimited

hot water supply

as long as the heater is running.​

The heat exchanger only eats up a few inches compared to a water tank.​

 

[coachgeo]

Aernan,
/For the domestic water source use a multi plate heat exchanger. ...

Yah those heat exchangers are great. How many plates in yours? Is that a 20?

If someone one is searching for them.... you might also find them sold as a "Flat Plate Heat Exchanger".

 

[FHIV]

Went with the 30 plate.The heater produces more than enough volume to meet the size. I figured too much heat is better as I can always add a tempering valve to cool it down.

 

[Aernan]

Aernan,
For the domestic water source use a multi plate heat exchanger. This is what I used in my M1079. I connected it to a radiant floor heating manifold which is heated by a Webasto coolant heater. This method provides an unlimited

hot water supply

as long as the heater is running.​

The heat exchanger only eats up a few inches compared to a water tank.​

In the photo it looks like you have 5 circuits. What zones do they cover?

 

[FHIV]

Radiant floor, water heater, heated grey tank, heated black tank, and forced air heating for quick heating of the box while floor heats up.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Not sure how big a fridge you need, but the military blood coolers are able to run off 12,24,120,240v. Size would be a concern for me, but many rv fridges are small, so that may be a moot point.

 

[Aernan]

Radiant floor, water heater, heated grey tank, heated black tank, and forced air heating for quick heating of the box while floor heats up.

The heated tanks. Did you go under them or inside?

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[Aernan]

Not sure how big a fridge you need, but the military blood coolers are able to run off 12,24,120,240v. Size would be a concern for me, but many rv fridges are small, so that may be a moot point.

https://www.engelcoolers.com/12volt-fridge-freezers.html the 45 and 60 liter are what I'm looking at. I figure under the bench seats have one or two then another pull out on rails near the sink on the floor.

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