M1083 info needed on frame rails and bed

htxol

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Houston Texas
Hi - going a different direction with my 1088 and would like to attach a bed from a 1083. But need some info to prep the 1088 for it.

1) Understand that the 1083 has extra set of frame rails that give the bed a bit more clearance. What are these rail made from? Channel? Anyone know the width, height, and thickness? Any photos?

2) Anyone have a photo or drawing of how the rails are mated?

3) Based on the TM it looks like there are 4 pieces of angle attached to the bottom of the bed which secure it to the top rail. Is this right? Has anyone seen a drawing with info on the positions of the holes on the angle relative to the top rail?

Thanks!
 

B-Dog

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The stock (1083) doublers appear to have been bent from plate steel and would be difficult to duplicate without access to a very large press brake. They're about 6 1/4" tall x 2 3/4" wide x 5/16" thick. If it were me, I'd use rectangular tube but C6x13 is close-ish and I'm pretty sure the bolts would clear the radius of the channel. The side plates (item 29 below) on the 1083 are taller than the 1088 in order to attach to the frame doublers.
In addition to the big frame plates (item 29), there are (3) small plates (circled below) on each side that attach the main frame rail to the doubler channel.
There is a total of 20 bolts that couple the 2 parts together, on each side.

1634525461436.png


Look at @ckouba 's camper thread. I think he added the doublers to his 1088....
 

ckouba

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I used the 1083 doublers as the base for my subframe. I am phone-based access only through next week but there are some pics in my build thread as B-dog mentioned.
 

coachgeo

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hmmm........ thinking LMTV not mtv so I guess below info does not count..... bed on MTV seems to be different animal now that I look at pics closer.

Thusly Ignore below previous drivel lol

most folk sell their bed with that frame rail still attached to the bed.... its actually more of a part of the bed than it is a second piece.

but otherwise any 6" channel iron with similar wall thickness as chassis will do for a local driver that does not get off road much. that piece does not need to be chassis quality materiel IMHO for that. Iffff it will be stressed often and chassis flexed offroad then maybe consider a chunk of standard heat treated chassis channel 6" tall and bolt her up.
 
Last edited:

htxol

New member
16
6
3
Location
Houston Texas
I used the 1083 doublers as the base for my subframe. I am phone-based access only through next week but there are some pics in my build thread as B-dog mentioned.
Thanks. Thought I recognized the truck. Inspired by your removal of the leaf spring. Would like to do, but not brazen enough yet.


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