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M113 Track Pads and Spark Plugs....

M920

Member
892
25
18
Location
chama/nm
Anybody out there got a good source for a complete set of track pads for the M113 APC ? Also looking for spark plugs for the V8 Chrysler gas engine.

I am trying to get my XM474E2 Missle Carrier serviced and usable, so any help on this would be great.....have not had much luck on the internet....

Thanks Soni
 

B3.3T

Well-known member
1,293
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SW Ohio
For that M75 engine, do yourself a BIG favor and put a civilian electronic ignition system on it. You can then run civilian plugs, but mostly, it will run SO much better. The GI is really weak. An Edelbrock 1406
carb is a must as well.
 

M920

Member
892
25
18
Location
chama/nm
For that M75 engine, do yourself a BIG favor and put a civilian electronic ignition system on it. You can then run civilian plugs, but mostly, it will run SO much better. The GI is really weak. An Edelbrock 1406
carb is a must as well.
B3.3T,
thanks for the tip. I did the Edelbrock swap already since I could not get the original carb to work at all....lol
So what would i look for distributor whise? would a standard Chrysler small block or block big block distributor work?

Soni
 

Elwenil

New member
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Location
Covington, VA
The M75 runs a 361, correct? If that is the case a typical Mopar B engine electronic distributor should work fine. Be aware that the RB engines are a high deck version and use a longer distributor and they will not work in a low deck block like the 361, 383 and 400. Small block distributors are different also.
 

TacticalTruck

Active member
928
48
28
Location
Va Piedmont
I used the RB distributor with a spacer from Summit to help get the distributor up out of the hole created by the large mil version of the water pump housing. It gives you more room for the vacuum advance bell. The eldelbrock sure works good on my V100 but it sure sucked on my Roadrunner. I went back to my Thermoquad!

Jeff
 
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TacticalTruck

Active member
928
48
28
Location
Va Piedmont
Oh and the gear driven cam spins backwards on the 75M from a civi 361. IIRC, I had to switch drive gears from the military to the civilian dist/oil pump drive shaft.

Jeff
 

M920

Member
892
25
18
Location
chama/nm
Thank all you guys for the great imput! I will try the distributor swap, that does sound like the way to go. This XM474 tracked missle carrier should be pretty "sporty" to drive since it weights "only" a little over 11,000 #! I have not had a chance to really try it out, since it does not run right.... I'm anxious now to do this modification because I have heard, that the gas powered m113's ran better then the diesel's.

Will keep you guys posted.....

Soni
 

B3.3T

Well-known member
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Location
SW Ohio
Rather than switching the gear on the drive as Jeff did, we take the M75 shaft and simply shorten it and mill the distributor drive slot in it. We've done 5 like this. We also use the MOPAR electronic ignition system you can buy from most suppliers like Summit, then run it through a 24/12 converter. Jeff taught us the wiring and it works really well. The engines start and warm up faster, and really run smoother. Lot better fuel consumption, too.
 

M920

Member
892
25
18
Location
chama/nm
Rather than switching the gear on the drive as Jeff did, we take the M75 shaft and simply shorten it and mill the distributor drive slot in it. We've done 5 like this. We also use the MOPAR electronic ignition system you can buy from most suppliers like Summit, then run it through a 24/12 converter. Jeff taught us the wiring and it works really well. The engines start and warm up faster, and really run smoother. Lot better fuel consumption, too.

OK....I'm not sure i'm following you on this one....I assume that the pump drive and the distributor shaft are two seperate pieces on the new setup? So is it a one piece design on the 75M setup or why do u have to shorten it ?

Soni
 

TacticalTruck

Active member
928
48
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Location
Va Piedmont
The oil pump is directly below the distributor and they are driven on opposite ends of a shaft that is driven by a bevel gear off the cam shaft. The mil distributor is shorter. It does not go down inside the engine as far as the civi dist. You have to modify the drive shaft either by shortening it or swapping the gears. Now i realize who B3.3T is......Yo.
 

M920

Member
892
25
18
Location
chama/nm
Ah....I remember now, on the Mopar engines, the the drive gear is not mounted on the distributor shaft but is driven by a slot in the top of the pump drive shaft... I believe I understand now what needs to be done.

Thanks Soni
 

M920

Member
892
25
18
Location
chama/nm
Oh....one last thing: do you by any chance know what the civilian spark plug number is that I should use in the 75M?

Thanks again for all the help!

Soni
 

jkftl

New member
21
0
0
Location
Ft. Lauderdale
For that M75 engine, do yourself a BIG favor and put a civilian electronic ignition system on it. You can then run civilian plugs, but mostly, it will run SO much better. The GI is really weak. An Edelbrock 1406
carb is a must as well.
We have 2 of those engines (1-AO-895, 1-AOS-895) The natural one is on a trailer as a noise demo. It had been stored outside for years without carb covered and a lot of damage had occurred. I easily found a nice 1963 rebuilt carb (same as GAA/Sherman) and a pair of rebuilt mags. Mil plugs will never wear out due to few hours/year. Total bill under $500. After 30 MH, the AO belched first fire.
The AOS always was a good runner (M-41) and continues to be. Both engines are highly satisfactory with adjustments done per manual. It would be a shame to throw hotrod parts at it, because the originals are out there. Do we really care about fuel consumption for something used a few hours a year?
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Camp Wood/LC, TX
B3.3T is using the mil designation "M75" (correctly 75M) of the 361 Chrysler V-8 engine that is used in the early M113 APC. He is not referring to the engine in the M75 APC which as you know is the AO-895. There are no civi hotrod parts for the 895, it is a hotrod already!
 
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