M37 door skin crack repair

[dodgedougak]

My passenger door has a long (8") crack that is starting to star out. I seem to remember you used to be able to get replacement door skins, but Vintage Power Wagon has none and I have not found anywhere else. The only repair I can think of involves drill stopping the cracks, using a backing piece of sheetmetal, stitch welding the crack, annealing the repair and hoping that you have not warped or hardened the metal around the repair. I am tempted to drill stop the crack, use epoxy to glue a backing piece inside the skin and then use filler in the crack. Wonder if it will hold or just crack out? See the attached picture, any advise is welcome!

 

[maddawg308]

Could always cut the affected area out in a square shape around the crack, and weld in new metal. Might be a bit overkill, but you'll never have to worry about the crack repair getting worse...

 

[glcaines]

I would recommend drill stopping the crack(s) and then brazing a piece of metal on the back side, assuming that you can get to it. I would then grind out the crack through to the backing plate and then braze the gap in the door (ground out crack) to the backing plate. Body filler will finish the job. You will have a very stable patch if done this way.I've had much better luck brazing things like this than welding. I've used the same technique repairing cracks in frames with 100% success. Make sure whoever does the repair knows how to braze.

 

[dodgedougak]

It will probably be me who does the brazing. It's been a couple of decades since I gas welded or brazed, what with all the neat new Mig Tig, etc. But, it sounds like a good way to repair this. It may be a few weeks, but I will let you know how it comes out.

 

[GUNNY 155]

Call Memphis Equipment they had a few NOS right doors in the box. They did not come with Glass but had the window regulators and lock sets. Picked one up from them on E Bay for $195.00.

 

[rosco]

Its cracking because of vibration - brass is terrible for that application. In fact, any heat will distort that door skin, especially welding. Your going to be better off, just getting another door.

 

[dodgedougak]

Will do, that sounds cheaper than the labor to try to fix mine!

 

[dodgedougak]

Roscoe.......Delta Junction.........another GreatLander! I didn't see that yesterday. If I can get this truck back together, I want to come up there for a little moose meat! Thanks for the advise on the door. I am checking with Memphis Equipment and with Vintage Power Wagons.

 

[nattieleather]

If you find a drivers side door let me know. I need one!

 

[rosco]

The doors are around. Dodgedoughak, there are moose around too. I once had a Guy back into the door of my M37. It ruined the outside. I had a parts truck that had a good outside door skin, but the inside was ruined. I took the guts out of them and carefully un-crimped the inside from the outside skins on both. Putting the good parts back together, I made one good door. You can see where the top corners are welded. Most of the rest is crimped together.

 

[GUNNY 155]

I also found a new drivers door at Mid West Military but seems NOS left doors are hard to come by. I did pay quite a bit more for the left door. I still have both take off doors from my M37 if anyone has a intrest. They are clean and straight and need only some minor work. I also have a cab tub and fenders. All priced to sell quick!

 

[dodgedougak]

I was kind of looking forward to just reskinning the door. Your right it doesn't look too technically difficult. But, a whole new NOS door for under $200 with window regulator. I had an email from Memphis Equip and they have them. I have not been able to find any door skins, so I guess the Moose gets a whole new door!
Rosco, are you going to be around when the MVPA comes through town in aug 2012? I am planning to make that trip, either with the Moose or with the M38A1.

 

[rosco]

I suppose I will be. I was here for the last one.

When I was a Kid, I worked for a long time, while going to school, for a welder that worked here, on the Highway in 1941. His section was between Tok and Fairbanks. He told lots of stories, especially about crossing the rivers and Shaw Creek hill. The truck he usually drove was a big Sterling with a Hall Scott gasser engine. I had 12.00x24" grader tires with one rear differential that drove two, chain drive rear axles, pulling a low boy.

 

[MitchG]

Guys if any of you want a replacement I have a couple off one of my parts trucks. They are complete, regulator, glass, and latch mech. I was asking 125.00 for the complete unit plus shipping. If you want one let me know.