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M37 switch conector.

carl207

New member
4
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Location
Lexington va
Good afternoon. in the process of rebuilding my 1951 M37. I consult the forum and the manuals. It is the first time I write. I purchased the vehicle in April of this year. The vehicle is very complete and has no rust. When I bought it it didn't turn on. After changing the exhaust valve of cylinder 3, correct the position of the distributor. Replace the condenser plates and internal distributor cap. Replace the brake master cylinder. The truck runs very well. It's my first m37. I already rebuilt in the past. a m38a1. A CJ2A and several sports vehicles from the 50s and 60s. I repaired the wiring and it turned out very well. At the time of purchasing it, the light switch connector was in very bad condition. I got a new one. but pin number 40. (dashboard lights) does not have it. I don't want to disassemble the connector to solder said cable. What option could you give me? Connect the dashboard lights to the parking lights? thank you so much.
 

G744

Well-known member
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Hidden Valley, Az
The backshell of the connector will unscrew, pull it back a bit.

Work an ice pick under the rubber boot to get it to move back a couple inches as well. You may have to split the tape covering some. A tiny amount of DOT3 on the wires coming out of the boot will help with this task.

The pins in the connector will push out to the rear. I use needle nose pliers.

Fix your wire, push it back in after putting a drop of DOT3 on it to ease thing along. I use the ice pick again to push it back in.
 

Redleg130

Active member
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147
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Location
Kansas
I recently redid my connector - Rebuilding the 3 lever light switch connector – Stickelman.net

In your description, are you saying that the dashboard light connection is disconnected and thus not working?

If you want to have dash lights without disassembling the connector - which you can do without much fuss if you chose to using G744s technique, but you could get either three way splice connectors or if you want to use rubber shells then BIG MIKE'S MOTOR POOL — FEMALE PACKARD "Y" CONNECTOR FOR SPLICING MS27147-1 (bigmikesmotorpool.com) and splice on to whatever has power when you want dash lights as an option.
 

John Mc

Well-known member
207
292
63
Location
Monkton, VT
The backshell of the connector will unscrew, pull it back a bit.

Work an ice pick under the rubber boot to get it to move back a couple inches as well. You may have to split the tape covering some. A tiny amount of DOT3 on the wires coming out of the boot will help with this task.

The pins in the connector will push out to the rear. I use needle nose pliers.

Fix your wire, push it back in after putting a drop of DOT3 on it to ease thing along. I use the ice pick again to push it back in.
I may be remembering incorrectly, but I think the sockets are in the connector, and the pins are on the switch.

One thing I would recommend while you have the problem socket out of the connector: make sure the socket has a snug fit on the correct size pin. One of mine was loose, causing a poor contact. I just gave it a light squeeze in a couple of directions until it fit snugly on the pin, then put it back into the connector.
 

carl207

New member
4
2
3
Location
Lexington va
Thank you very much for all your advice. With patience I managed to remove the pin and solder a cable. All the lights now work. thanks again for all the help. Now to get a good price on all 4 tires. I have two from 1952 and two from 1968. The most impressive thing is that they do not lose air.

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John Mc

Well-known member
207
292
63
Location
Monkton, VT
Thank you very much for all your advice. With patience I managed to remove the pin and solder a cable. All the lights now work. thanks again for all the help. Now to get a good price on all 4 tires. I have two from 1952 and two from 1968. The most impressive thing is that they do not lose air.

View attachment 927447
Are you looking for the original type of tires or open to other tread styles or sizes?
 

John Mc

Well-known member
207
292
63
Location
Monkton, VT
Preferably original tread in 9 00 16 or 11.00 16 thanks
I've never seen original tread in an 11.00x16. Do they exist?

The original NDT tread does give a nice, authentic look. However, they are awful in snow an not much better in rain. The only time I've driven that style tread in mud was on an antique Coot UTV - and the set of well-used snow tires I switched to when the original tires wore out did much better in the mud (and they were just passenger car snow tires, not something billed as all-terrain or mud-snow tires).

The Michelin XZL 9.00 R16 tires have gotten just about impossible to find. The 11.00 R16 XZL are available, but new price is now up to $550 from Colony Tire in Norfolk, VA (though they do not seem to have updated their eBay price, which still shows $495 each).
 

carl207

New member
4
2
3
Location
Lexington va
I've never seen original tread in an 11.00x16. Do they exist?

The original NDT tread does give a nice, authentic look. However, they are awful in snow an not much better in rain. The only time I've driven that style tread in mud was on an antique Coot UTV - and the set of well-used snow tires I switched to when the original tires wore out did much better in the mud (and they were just passenger car snow tires, not something billed as all-terrain or mud-snow tires).

The Michelin XZL 9.00 R16 tires have gotten just about impossible to find. The 11.00 R16 XZL are available, but new price is now up to $550 from Colony Tire in Norfolk, VA (though they do not seem to have updated their eBay price, which still shows $495 each).
Ebay . 9.00 16 ntd . 1045$ 4 tires. Look good deal. Only no like . Is 14 ply the original is 8 ply. I don't know is too stiff for m37
 
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