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M55A2 Parts/Tools

84M923

New member
13
5
3
Location
Wagoner, Ok
So I'm planning to by this truck once the funds arrive, hopefully in the next few weeks. So I'm doing a lot of reading and much......much learning! :geek:

I got questions though,
1. Where do I get parts to maintain original workmanship with new age quality?
2. I have found several TM's and FM's on here and google, but are there better breakdowns for maintenance?
3. What are some of the tools I will be needing to work on this jewel? Torque wrench size? Drive set size (I have 3/4" set)? etc
4. What are some of the first things you would check if the truck has sat for a while?
5. What weight fluids should I use? DOT5? 15W40 Rotella T? 80W90 Gear lube?

Thanks in advance!
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,251
18,789
113
Location
Charlotte NC
So I'm planning to by this truck once the funds arrive, hopefully in the next few weeks. So I'm doing a lot of reading and much......much learning! :geek:

I got questions though,
1. Where do I get parts to maintain original workmanship with new age quality?
2. I have found several TM's and FM's on here and google, but are there better breakdowns for maintenance?
3. What are some of the tools I will be needing to work on this jewel? Torque wrench size? Drive set size (I have 3/4" set)? etc
4. What are some of the first things you would check if the truck has sat for a while?
5. What weight fluids should I use? DOT5? 15W40 Rotella T? 80W90 Gear lube?

Thanks in advance!
.
Welcome to the group!

M55a2 seems to be a 5-Ton as best I can tell. Have to admit I don't know for sure. I seem to have discovered the M814 is the same truck as the M55 (long wheel base) the 250 cummins. The M55a0 had a gasser, the M55a1 had the Mack, and a M55a2 had the Hercules multi-fuel power plant. Can't swear to it, just got what I have with a little digging.

The TM's, especially the number ending in XX-XXX-XXX-10 is the operators manual. There are Trouble Shooting sections there. For things like oil pressure. Low? High? Could also mention vibration in the engine and how to investigate that.

Most of these trucks have DOT3. You need to keep it that way, or remove all the old if you feel the need to have any higher DOT # brake fluid. Me personally, get the truck to go. Then get it to stop. THEN if you want the benefits of DOT5, go for it, but you have to drain the old and NOT MIX the 3 and 5 fluids.

80w90 is a good gear oil and smells great in your hair (it stinks but it works well). :cool:

15/40 Rotella is a good oil and should be fine. There should be a metal tag on the right side of the dash with the specifics on oils. Roughly 21 or 22 quarts is what is required in the engine.

There is a thing called Lubrication Order.

You just need to know that particular book was published in 1984, (Supersedes LO 9-2320-211-12, dated 31 January 1979) . Oil is oil, quantity is there. I wouldn't go nuts and try to convert that motor to synthetic oil, but Rotella does a good job.

I'm sure some of the other folks will check in too.
 

84M923

New member
13
5
3
Location
Wagoner, Ok
.
Welcome to the group!

M55a2 seems to be a 5-Ton as best I can tell. Have to admit I don't know for sure. I seem to have discovered the M814 is the same truck as the M55 (long wheel base) the 250 cummins. The M55a0 had a gasser, the M55a1 had the Mack, and a M55a2 had the Hercules multi-fuel power plant. Can't swear to it, just got what I have with a little digging.

The TM's, especially the number ending in XX-XXX-XXX-10 is the operators manual. There are Trouble Shooting sections there. For things like oil pressure. Low? High? Could also mention vibration in the engine and how to investigate that.

Most of these trucks have DOT3. You need to keep it that way, or remove all the old if you feel the need to have any higher DOT # brake fluid. Me personally, get the truck to go. Then get it to stop. THEN if you want the benefits of DOT5, go for it, but you have to drain the old and NOT MIX the 3 and 5 fluids.

80w90 is a good gear oil and smells great in your hair (it stinks but it works well). :cool:

15/40 Rotella is a good oil and should be fine. There should be a metal tag on the right side of the dash with the specifics on oils. Roughly 21 or 22 quarts is what is required in the engine.

There is a thing called Lubrication Order.

You just need to know that particular book was published in 1984, (Supersedes LO 9-2320-211-12, dated 31 January 1979) . Oil is oil, quantity is there. I wouldn't go nuts and try to convert that motor to synthetic oil, but Rotella does a good job.

I'm sure some of the other folks will check in too.
Thanks, I finally have the money saved, college paid for, and wife approval for a purchase. 🥳 @Mullaney is your truck an M936? Looks nice!

It is a 5 ton with the multifuel. I have TM's x-xxxx-xxx-20, 10, and the LO9-2320-211-12. I wasn't sure how to translate some of the terminology on the LO document. Figured a "diesel" is a diesel...should I consider changing trans/t-case fluids?

I was planning to pull the hubs and check brake springs, wheel cylinders, MC, and axle seals. I like to get it running, but I know I need to get the 20K lb beast to stop. Plus changing all, or most all, fluids and all filters before I take it for a drive. Is doing all that overkill?
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,251
18,789
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Thanks, I finally have the money saved, college paid for, and wife approval for a purchase. 🥳 @Mullaney is your truck an M936? Looks nice!

It is a 5 ton with the multifuel. I have TM's x-xxxx-xxx-20, 10, and the LO9-2320-211-12. I wasn't sure how to translate some of the terminology on the LO document. Figured a "diesel" is a diesel...should I consider changing trans/t-case fluids?

I was planning to pull the hubs and check brake springs, wheel cylinders, MC, and axle seals. I like to get it running, but I know I need to get the 20K lb beast to stop. Plus changing all, or most all, fluids and all filters before I take it for a drive. Is doing all that overkill?
.
Thanks 84M923 !

Yes sir. She is a M936. It is looking better all the time. Fix a little, play a little, replace a part or several, and play a little more. I still have plenty to do, but it was amazing what some wire brushing, rub-down with Acetone, then rattle can paint did for the outward appearance. My goal there was to make it look better and then this stupid virus showed up and everything got shutdown. Heck, just driving down the road a few miles and back home will get a half dozen hand waves :) That isn't quite as exciting as a real parade, but I have had a few one truck parades!

Real big time CONGRATULATIONS on getting college paid for. That is a big deal and it takes persistence for sure! This will be great. Having a few bucks saved up and your wife being able to say yes is pretty fantastic. Especially if you can get her involved for a few short trips! Quite a few of the guys here have family involvement - kids and wives too. Trips to the grocery store or the local hardware will be a lot of fun.

The 5-Ton Multifuel is a tough old motor. The magic was (still is) its ability to burn just about anything for "go juice". Lots of the guys here run filtered used motor oil and gas. Gotta get the mixture right, but in past military struggles that ability to burn whatever was a big plus! It definitely is a diesel with an injector pump and injectors.

---

I was looking back about what to do for a truck that has been sitting for a while. First concern is looking in the fuel tank. If it has some, is it fairly clear? It isn't growing gunk? (regular pump diesel will do that) You will be looking maybe with a cheap inspection camera that plugs into a USB port lets you dig a little deeper. I have one that I found that claims to be waterproof. I have dipped it into the bottom of my fuel tanks for short periods of time... It will plug into my Android phone. Less than $40 delivered if I remember correctly. If you have dirt, rust or algae that needs to be fixed before you turn over the motor the first time. Another thing to consider is that sloshing fuel might loosen rust inside the tank. You might run fine, then quit running because the fuel filters get stopped up.

Everybody has an opinion about motor oil. It needs to be changed because the process of diesel combustion turns pretty golden oil black in a very few minutes. There are companies that will test your oil for contaminants (slivers of bearings etc) but I would pull the dipstick, make sure it is near the fill line and leave it along until it cranks, idles and will actually run for you. A piece of coat-hanger wire pushed in that dipstick hole - all the way to the bottom - then pulled gently back out could tell you if there is sludge in the bottom of the oilpan.

The gearboxes: manual transmission, transfer case, front and real axles all use the same gear oil. The thing to remember is that oil floats on water. I don't really know the history of your truck. You might not either, but on all the gearboxes there is a fill hole and a drain plug. If you are going for a 5 mile ride, I would do more - but to start with - just open the fill plugs about half way up the metal casting (normally a half inch ratchet fits those plugs). Stick your finger in there with it bent at the knuckle toward the bottom. You should touch gear oil. Do all of them. Then you know you won't burn up something...

Brakes: Yes, pulling the hubs is likely a good idea depending on how long it has been sitting. It should be done, but YOU have to have some amount of personal satisfaction as you work on this thing. I wouldn't rip into removing those tires and hubs until you can crank and run. You should be able to look for brake fluid in the master cylinder. I think there will be a brake booster in there too (not certain). I am a little fuzzy. Some have "air over hydraulic" and some do not. In any case if you step on the brakes and pump them a time or two - the peddle shouldn't go as far down on the second or third "pump". FOR SURE, don't throw it in gear and zip off down a hill :cool:

Battery Power: These trucks are 24 volt. Minimum of two batteries required. Maybe charge them up and see what happens? If you have a normal car charger, you can attach the battery clips to the Plus and Negative on one battery to charge it, then do the other one - and if you have a 4 battery set - same drill but more times. Might have to replace them, but maybe not.

So I don't over do it, digest a little of this and maybe we talk some more as we go along. Posting some pictures will get the folks here excited and me too! That will get the suggestions rolling in too... Heck, maybe if you know a little history about the truck and when it last was running might tell a lot about it too.
 
Last edited:

84M923

New member
13
5
3
Location
Wagoner, Ok
.
Thanks 84M923 !

Yes sir. She is a M936. It is looking better all the time. Fix a little, play a little, replace a part or several, and play a little more. I still have plenty to do, but it was amazing what some wire brushing, rub-down with Acetone, then rattle can paint did for the outward appearance. My goal there was to make it look better and then this stupid virus showed up and everything got shutdown. Heck, just driving down the road a few miles and back home will get a half dozen hand waves :) That isn't quite as exciting as a real parade, but I have had a few one truck parades!

Real big time CONGRATULATIONS on getting college paid for. That is a big deal and it takes persistence for sure! This will be great. Having a few bucks saved up and your wife being able to say yes is pretty fantastic. Especially if you can get her involved for a few short trips! Quite a few of the guys here have family involvement - kids and wives too. Trips to the grocery store or the local hardware will be a lot of fun.

The 5-Ton Multifuel is a tough old motor. The magic was (still is) its ability to burn just about anything for "go juice". Lots of the guys here run filtered used motor oil and gas. Gotta get the mixture right, but in past military struggles that ability to burn whatever was a big plus! It definitely is a diesel with an injector pump and injectors.

---

I was looking back about what to do for a truck that has been sitting for a while. First concern is looking in the fuel tank. If it has some, is it fairly clear? It isn't growing gunk? (regular pump diesel will do that) You will be looking maybe with a cheap inspection camera that plugs into a USB port lets you dig a little deeper. I have one that I found that claims to be waterproof. I have dipped it into the bottom of my fuel tanks for short periods of time... It will plug into my Android phone. Less than $40 delivered if I remember correctly. If you have dirt, rust or algae that needs to be fixed before you turn over the motor the first time. Another thing to consider is that sloshing fuel might loosen rust inside the tank. You might run fine, then quit running because the fuel filters get stopped up.

Everybody has an opinion about motor oil. It needs to be changed because the process of diesel combustion turns pretty golden oil black in a very few minutes. There are companies that will test your oil for contaminants (slivers of bearings etc) but I would pull the dipstick, make sure it is near the fill line and leave it along until it cranks, idles and will actually run for you. A piece of coat-hanger wire pushed in that dipstick hole - all the way to the bottom - then pulled gently back out could tell you if there is sludge in the bottom of the oil pan.

The gearboxes: manual transmission, transfer case, front and rear axles all use the same gear oil. The thing to remember is that oil floats on water. I don't really know the history of your truck. You might not either, but on all the gearboxes there is a fill hole and a drain plug. If you are going for a 5 mile ride, I would do more - but to start with - just open the fill plugs about halfway up the metal casting (normally a half inch ratchet fits those plugs). Stick your finger in there with it bent at the knuckle toward the bottom. You should touch gear oil. Do all of them. Then you know you won't burn up something...

Brakes: Yes, pulling the hubs is likely a good idea depending on how long it has been sitting. It should be done, but YOU have to have some amount of personal satisfaction as you work on this thing. I wouldn't rip into removing those tires and hubs until you can crank and run. You should be able to look for brake fluid in the master cylinder. I think there will be a brake booster in there too (not certain). I am a little fuzzy. Some have "air over hydraulic" and some do not. In any case if you step on the brakes and pump them a time or two - the peddle shouldn't go as far down on the second or third "pump". FOR SURE, don't throw it in gear and zip off down a hill :cool:

Battery Power: These trucks are 24 volt. Minimum of two batteries required. Maybe charge them up and see what happens? If you have a normal car charger, you can attach the battery clips to the Plus and Negative on one battery to charge it, then do the other one - and if you have a 4 battery set - same drill but more times. Might have to replace them, but maybe not.

So I don't over do it, digest a little of this and maybe we talk some more as we go along. Posting some pictures will get the folks here excited and me too! That will get the suggestions rolling in too... Heck, maybe if you know a little history about the truck and when it last was running might tell a lot about it too.
Yes, amazingly my wife agreed to a truck several years ago, but we both agreed paying off college to be a priority.

I am anxious to get to meet more local people, I think the comradery is amazing. I have watched several youtube videos about the SS rallies and other MV rallies!

Good to know about the engine oil.
Screenshot 2021-07-10 at 10.57.37 AM.jpg
This is what the guy mentioned about the truck. Currently it's sitting about 70 miles from my house, I am hoping I can get it towed, but if not I'll have to do all the repairs on site and have a "parts chasing" vehicle with tools following. I suspect then, even being towed I will need to verify no water in the gear boxes.

I am excited to make something of this truck. I think, according to the operators manual, this was originally a cargo truck. I hope to take it back to that, maybe putting the rear winch on the front. It definitely needs paint. Here are some pictures he posted of it, some of you Okies in Skiatook, Ok may have seen this guy running around.
IMG_4347.PNGIMG_4348.PNGIMG_4349.PNGIMG_4350.PNG
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,251
18,789
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Yes, amazingly my wife agreed to a truck several years ago, but we both agreed paying off college to be a priority.

I am anxious to get to meet more local people, I think the comradery is amazing. I have watched several youtube videos about the SS rallies and other MV rallies!

Good to know about the engine oil.
View attachment 839320
This is what the guy mentioned about the truck. Currently it's sitting about 70 miles from my house, I am hoping I can get it towed, but if not I'll have to do all the repairs on site and have a "parts chasing" vehicle with tools following. I suspect then, even being towed I will need to verify no water in the gear boxes.

I am excited to make something of this truck. I think, according to the operators manual, this was originally a cargo truck. I hope to take it back to that, maybe putting the rear winch on the front. It definitely needs paint. Here are some pictures he posted of it, some of you Okies in Skiatook, Ok may have seen this guy running around.
View attachment 839325View attachment 839326View attachment 839327View attachment 839328
.
Nice. What you have on the back of the truck is a "headache bar" for the "gin pole" setup. Those "eyes" on the left and right are so you can use a snatchblock with that rear mounted winch. Gives you the ability to drag something toward the truck from the left or right. And there is most likely some steel blocks welded to the bed where the poles attach. That setup is how things were done before hydraulics were on everything. Your truck according to the dash plate was definitely a cargo. Couple of gin pole pictures below. Often times that rear winch is much larger than would fit on the front...

M756a2 + Gin Poles.jpg Gin Pole 17.jpg Gin Pole 13.jpg Gin Pole 09.jpg

Having to run 70 miles every time you want to work on the truck is going to get old in a hurry. I agree that you need to make sure there is no water in the gearboxes. Could always pop the bottom plug out and back in quickly, check your pan and tighten it back up. Water in a hogshead will generally make you gag. If you find it, it should be obvious. Full drain might be easier at home. Waste oil at your place might be better than this guy's place.

That far away would be far enough to clog a set of fuel filters, so a spare set in the truck would be cheap insurance.

Based on the story, this truck sounds like it could have been happily used.

I suggest that you ask in the "Parts Wanted" forum to find an alternator. I purchased a brushless, freshly built and I was impressed with it and the price more reasonable than anywhere else I found.
 
Last edited:

M37M35

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
572
648
93
Location
East Central Oklahoma
So I'm planning to by this truck once the funds arrive, hopefully in the next few weeks. So I'm doing a lot of reading and much......much learning! :geek:

I got questions though,
1. Where do I get parts to maintain original workmanship with new age quality?
2. I have found several TM's and FM's on here and google, but are there better breakdowns for maintenance?
3. What are some of the tools I will be needing to work on this jewel? Torque wrench size? Drive set size (I have 3/4" set)? etc
4. What are some of the first things you would check if the truck has sat for a while?
5. What weight fluids should I use? DOT5? 15W40 Rotella T? 80W90 Gear lube?

Thanks in advance!

Howdy!

I'm south of Tulsa. Depending on my schedule, I might be able to lend a hand if needed. I also know a towing company that's reasonable, if you decide to go that route.

PM me your phone number and we can talk.
 
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