M932A2 removal of low range front axle engage valve

[grendel]

Spent a fair bit of time in the manuals, looking for the output line from the dash switch, to plumb into the port that engages the front axle.


The pic below is how I got my truck. I really prefer to simplify, now that I am not an 18yo dumbass driving these trucks.



Anyone have a diagram of this switch or a grab this tube from the switch and plug it into this port on the front axle or t-case sort of direction?

I really want to get rid of all of it.

 

[Gunzy]

Easiest thing to do is to remove the big washer that actuated the lever on the air switch in front of the transfer case.

 

[grendel]

Easiest thing to do is to remove the big washer that actuated the lever on the air switch in front of the transfer case.

Thanks, in the pic, you'd see the removed the arm on the second valve that's just hanging there.

Me, I am a simplest...or simpleton, whatever you want to call me.

Butt (we all have one) I want to remove that valve and it's plumbing. I just want the switch on the dash to engage the front axle.

I am happy to pay someone to tell me which line from the dash switch should go to the transfer case to engage front wheel drive. I believe I already have air at that switch.

 

[74M35A2]

Hey baby, how much?

 

[grendel]

How about 100? It's worth it to me. I just don't know the air system enough.

 

[grendel]

Well, considering that my front axle is locked in, I really need to figure this out before I take it down the road. The switch on the dash is in/op. Front axle is just on.

 

[sandcobra164]

The front axle may appear to be on because the driveshaft turns constantly anytime the truck is moving. Only way to actually turn it off is with the use of locking and unlocking hubs like a typical 4X4 truck has. All the air engage / disengage accomplishes is disconnecting the front driveshaft from the transfer case output. I've not read about these type of hubs being available for the 5 ton. I do know that the Deuce has them available and another alternative is to get an extra set of hub caps and have the splines milled out. That is a little more labor intensive to swap out but if you don't perceive a need for 6X6 on your trip, it is worth a little fuel savings from what I have read. Electric impact's would shorten the job quite a bit but still more work than rotating a switch on the hub.

 

[grendel]

Sorry, I was not clear. The front axle is powered: The t-case is providing power to the front drive shaft, causing bind in turns. Like I said, I only want the dash switch to control that and I can't figure out how to plumb it that way. It appears that there are at least 2 valves to remove.

I also have no idea how the PO did what he did.

 

[Jbulach]

Assuming your dash switch is good and all your plumbing is in the correct places, couldn't you just remove the valve in the picture and cap both airlines (just assuming this is a normally closed valve that is stuck open)?
I'm thinking likely you have the famous transfer case plumbed wrong scenario though and someone was trying to fix it by replacing valves.
I will see if I can find the threads for both removing and bypassing the valve and correct plumbing of the transfer case.

 

[grendel]

Assuming your dash switch is good and all your plumbing is in the correct places, couldn't you just remove the valve in the picture and cap both airlines (just assuming this is a normally closed valve that is stuck open)?
I'm thinking likely you have the famous transfer case plumbed wrong scenario though and someone was trying to fix it by replacing valves.
I will see if I can find the threads for both removing and bypassing the valve and correct plumbing of the transfer case.

Thanks for that. I can't make any assumptions

My plan is air in to the switch, air out when switched on, to the valve on the t-case that engages the front shaft. I looked briefly yesterday (while playing with new batteries, starters, wires and alternators) and saw a mess of plumbing with 4 lines that go no where and a few extra valves. That is all coming off, I need nice clean troubleshooting

 

[Jbulach]

I don't know how to make a link in Tapa, but if you search "M939 transfer case air lines installed wrong" post #13 has a schematic.
Assuming beerslayer infos not wrong.
That's as far as I reskimmed through the post but remamber there's a lot of good info in there also.

Sorry I work for a company where we're not allowed to use the word assume, so I use it a lot just out of spite...

 

[grendel]

I found it, thanks.

I'll send you a PM shortly, to get payment info.

 

[Jbulach]

I found it, thanks.

I'll send you a PM shortly, to get payment info.

Send $20 to 74m35a2 for contract negotiation and the other $80 to the server fund.
And remember the green line always goes to the green valve...

 

[grendel]

Will do, I am buying another alternator from him anyway

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...=M939+transfer+case+air+lines+installed+wrong