So I have had just a manual control valve on a switch to turn my fan clutch on and off when I want. I also have electric fans so it isn't really needed with an empty truck. The issue with the normal stutterstat I do not like is that it is generally a 185 setting. Meaning that any truck with slight load it is going to come on. Plus we all know how they are at leaking air. As well as just unreliable. I added the thermal Normally Closed (NC) switch to the thermostat housing today. It is the same thread size as the stutterstat 1/2". Wiring it up is simple. It is 12/24v either one. Power wire from a switch or ignition to the Thermal switch. Then thermal switch to the solenoid, and ground your solenoid. I powered my thermal switch up thru a switch on the dashboard so that I can turn the clutch on and off at needed being that if you pull a long hill and don't want to lose power or for fording as CSMDavis pointed out.
They have different temperature setting thermals but resets at -7 degrees of the open temp. so a 200 degree will cut off at 193. etc. They have several different temps. The Solenoid also has a air filter on it to keep contaminants out of the solenoid. Solenoid also has its own exhaust port so it does bleed off the air when it turns off.
One thing I have noticed from running my manual clutch is that the temp gauge on the dash will never drop back down to the normal 180 while the clutch is on. Only once I would cycle the clutch off would the temp drop back down to the 180 mark. This would happen even if I turned it on at 200 degrees. It would hold about half way between 180 and 200 no matter how long I had the clutch on but when I cycled it off it would drop back below 180. Really strange. I also noticed after I replaced the two metal coolant lines going to the air compressor that my temp gauge runs below 180 down the highway with no load.
Pics of the install and the Horton page for the units.
http://catalog.hortonww.com/catalog/pneu_thermal_switch.asp
They have different temperature setting thermals but resets at -7 degrees of the open temp. so a 200 degree will cut off at 193. etc. They have several different temps. The Solenoid also has a air filter on it to keep contaminants out of the solenoid. Solenoid also has its own exhaust port so it does bleed off the air when it turns off.
One thing I have noticed from running my manual clutch is that the temp gauge on the dash will never drop back down to the normal 180 while the clutch is on. Only once I would cycle the clutch off would the temp drop back down to the 180 mark. This would happen even if I turned it on at 200 degrees. It would hold about half way between 180 and 200 no matter how long I had the clutch on but when I cycled it off it would drop back below 180. Really strange. I also noticed after I replaced the two metal coolant lines going to the air compressor that my temp gauge runs below 180 down the highway with no load.
Pics of the install and the Horton page for the units.
http://catalog.hortonww.com/catalog/pneu_thermal_switch.asp
