Make a low trailer for MEP-002A

[n5yzv]

Hi all. I just moved my MEP-002A from my driveway to the back lawn by my shed. The neighbor and I had a fun night. Thank goodness for winches, come alongs, chain and vibration.
So I have painfully realized that I need a better way to move this thing. The area I would like to use it is in a bit of a tight spot and I cannot get to it with a full sized trailer.

I am planning to build a low trailer to mount this on, 4 wheels, steering in the front. I want to keep it low to reduce the chance of rolling. I figure for distance moving, I'll pull it up onto my 16 ft. trailer.

One idea is to take a frame of a riding lawn mower. Strip it down, extend the front "axel" out, drop the transmission and insert a single axel on pillow blocks, leaving the tires outside the outside edge of the genset.

Am I insane? I want to keep it on the cheap. I do have a mig welder and most of the metal tools necessary (don't say plasma torch, lathe, etc..). If I dont' use said lawn mower frame, I may convert it into a pull cart to transport...stuff. I like the idea of the taller, wide wheels of the lawn mower. I do plan to take the weight off the wheels while stationary with jacks and for the purpose of leveling.

Thanks!

Mark

 

[Isaac-1]

If your looking for some sort of around the yard only low speed cart/trailer consider the garden carts that Harbor Freight sells

Steel Mesh Deck Utility Wagon

or if your looking for a trailer with some on road ability perhaps:

40-1/2" x 48" Small Utility Trailer - 1090 Lb. Capacity

I have given thought to something like this before also, and another thing I have considered is an old Jet Ski steel trailer, they are narrow, about the right width, and about the right weight capacity, plus they are highway legal, plus they tend to show up cheap on the used market, at least the single wide ones do.

Ike

 

[jbk]

i mounted one of my 002s on a h.f i put a longer tounge on it the one with it is short and flimzy. picture of my 003 on a civi trailer.

 

[coyote62ny]

i used an old pop up camper trailer frame and made a trailer for my mep-003 you could cut it down to what ever you wanted here in new york we dont have to register it if it only has the gen set directly mounted to the frame and that is all you can get on it [ no room for anything else they consider it equipment like a wood splitter but you still have to have lights though

 

[Keith_J]

Got exactly what you need. Design wise. Steerable via wagon-type draw bar. Wheels sufficient for sod. Even 2 speed with reverse gear box and 1/2 Hp 24 volt electric motor drive. No modifications to the generator. Simple welding (might not be simple with wire feed).

The motor is from the same source, it provides 288 inch-pounds of torque (at 100 RPM) which is like a 16 HP gasoline engine. So it will certainly move the load, just not at break-neck speed.

Most of the parts are surplus. Still haven't made a good speed control unit although this isn't absolutely necessary at top speed is 1 MPH. Low gear with 12 volts and it crawls. It would be nice to have full torque with a PWM speed control to climb steep hills.

Pictures;

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/auxillary-equipment/75908-mep-002a-alive-3.html

Source for most parts:https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?catname=powerTrans&keyword=PTT1

I went with the two-speed transaxle because I intend to make a solid state speed control unit but it works fine with direct battery connection. 1/2 Hp motor at 1 MPH and it will climb a 45 degree slope. Most of the time, it draws less than 6 amps.

Steering it via a tie-rod linked casters, using a wagon-type T-handle. Eventually, the transaxle's disc brake will be incorporated into a deadman style so when the handle is released, the brake is engaged.

Bonus: Speed control is easy. http://www.bakatronics.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=581 This motor controller will work with the motor selected. Easy implementation for speed control. Now all I need to implement transmission (R-N-1-2) control.. Now I need to design a control from the integrated brake handle for the throttle. This way, control on any slope is assured.

With the DC motor, I have options. But with MOSFET speed control, simple polarity reversal isn't so simple (NPN-PNP transistor issues), direction reversal is best done with the gearbox.

 

[n5yzv]

You know, you were telling me about your project. I'll check it out. I have resulted for now to a winch and a trailer, but as time and money free up I need to do something. I was thinking of the "self propelled as well". During the drought here in South Texas I could roll anything around, but now with a bit of rain it is reminding me I need a better way to move this pig.
I figure for now, I have -a- way, not the most fun or convenient, but after I have a few projects out of the way, I'll be coming back to these posts to fab something real.
Keith, I may need to come see this setup in person. That is pretty much exactly what I am planning to do (in theory, not part for part of course). Are you planning anything for a leveling system for it? Maybe it doesn't matter with these, but I was planning some sort of jack system.

 

[Keith_J]

My system needs jack stands or legs when running as the pneumatic tires let it vibrate far too much. This causes the meters to bounce. The tires are sufficient "suspension" to smooth the low speed travel.

 

[VO1960]

Re: small trailer for Genset...

" looking for a trailer with some on road ability perhaps:

40-1/2" x 48" Small Utility Trailer - 1090 Lb. Capacity "

I've actually used a similar trailer from Harbor Freight for my MEP-002A (trailer model 2575, black with diamond plate floor, but otherwise identical). It works well enough, though I find the short tongue renders it liable to pitch up with the weight of the generator. Also, the tongue is rather flimsy, and actually is able to twist when a decent load is on the trailer (such as with an MEP-002A genset).

The picture is of when I brought it home, not yet mounted to the trailer.

 

[n5yzv]

You know. I think we are all missing an opportunity here. How about a rickshaw setup!!! Think about it. Set it up with the bike in the rear, genset in the front! Think of the exercise you can get. Just don't stop too fast, it might flip you over the top of it.

Yes. I am kidding.

I moved the genset 15 feet yesterday manually. I mean really manually. I has some small metal pipe, got them under it and pulled. Luckily I am not thin, so my body weight helped quite a bit. Now, I got to say, if the biggest looser wants a real workout, to this. It moved pretty good, so this method works good for small adjustments. I managed to pry it up with a shovel and some blocks. But yeah, I think I'll build a 4 wheeled cart for it over time. I figure I'll go to a metal scrap yard and see. I have thought about getting a military trailer, but they are just too tall to maneuver around the back yard. I like Keith's idea, but since I got my welder my projects are building up.

 

[3dAngus]

I understand you wanting to keep it low to minimize the chance of rolling, but the genset trailers, much higher, and not that expensive, have hand brakes. If the handbrakes are tight, it's not going anywhere, and you won't be moving the genset from trailer to trailer as it is already roadworthy. Just another consideration from the "rolling" perspective. Good luck!

 

[swbradley1]

If you don't have the room for a regular trailer I also opt for the utility trailers from Tractor Supply or Northern Tool. 4 wheels and front steering tow bar and pneumatic tires that will work on reasonably soft ground. I have on that is a 1 ton capacity and use it in my barn to move stuff around.

 

[n5yzv]

swbradley1, Yeah, I looked. The one that fits the bill the best in regards to size and weight is $300. I was thinking I would buy some hubs and spindles and just make it with 4 lug wheels. But I had an idea. What if I make a frame strong enough to handle the Genset (like with 3" x 2" 1/4" thick Angle). Then, just mount some cheap 10" casters like from Harbor Freight (just outside the width of the skids). Mount a swivel tongue on it. I'll make an adaptor to handle the lawn tractor, 2" ball and a handle for it. Also, since I know that the weight will destroy the tires, I'll make some drop down jacks or the crank down, to take the weight off.
This way, my cost will be about $100 in casters, steel will be about $60. I may make some of those mount points for the jacks that you see on jeeps for the leveling part. I imagine that my home made jacks will be stronger than the crank downs, and I can weld some steel studded feet on them to prevent sliding.

 

[Keith_J]

The 10" casters from Northern Tool have weak hubs that will bend with slight lateral load. They will work fine for the front (control cube) end but the engine end will probably over-load them.

You can straighten them out, then weld in gussets to make them work. The wheels are 2-piece bolt-together.

I'm pretty sure the 10" casters at HF are similar in strength.

 

[swbradley1]

If I were going to build it myself I'd use pneumatic tires. They will work a lot better on ground than hard casters.

 

[Keith_J]

These ARE pneumatic casters.

 

[swbradley1]

I said tires because casters are usually more narrow and have higher ground pressure per square inch. The tires on my trailer even loaded down burrow their way down in soft ground. My pneumatic tires are about 4 inches wide.

 

[lindyp38]

maybe this might work.....too bad ur not closer....