MEP-004A small issues...

[pinz399]

Not so sexy as some threads, but anyway.
I picked up my trailer mounted unit at auction 4 years ago. Somehow it belonged to local police dept. She has sat tarped outside until I recently decided it was time to get it going. Of course the batteries were dead when I purchased it and I couldn't recover them. They were red top optimas dated 07 I think. The engine has an 07 tag on it as well. There is a plate below the data plate on the outside stating it was rebuilt in 89.
Using some of the info posted on this forum, I've got it running. My issues are down to fuel gauge reads full which I hope is just a stuck float and the overload light on the panel stays lit. I cannot manually open the shutters to let air pass the radiator. I suppose they are locked up with corrosion. I ran the unit for 10 mins or so and it only seemed to reach 160 deg at no load of course. This particular unit only has a 110 outlet on the rear which works fine. I plan on performing the single phase conversion at some point. I will post a picture of the fuel cap housing/filler neck thing im searching for.
Thanks for all the loads of great info posted in these forums!

 

[pinz399]

 

[Mullaney]

Not so sexy as some threads, but anyway.
I picked up my trailer mounted unit at auction 4 years ago. Somehow it belonged to local police dept. She has sat tarped outside until I recently decided it was time to get it going. Of course the batteries were dead when I purchased it and I couldn't recover them. They were red top optimas dated 07 I think. The engine has an 07 tag on it as well. There is a plate below the data plate on the outside stating it was rebuilt in 89.
Using some of the info posted on this forum, I've got it running. My issues are down to fuel gauge reads full which I hope is just a stuck float and the overload light on the panel stays lit. I cannot manually open the shutters to let air pass the radiator. I suppose they are locked up with corrosion. I ran the unit for 10 mins or so and it only seemed to reach 160 deg at no load of course. This particular unit only has a 110 outlet on the rear which works fine. I plan on performing the single phase conversion at some point. I will post a picture of the fuel cap housing/filler neck thing im searching for.
Thanks for all the loads of great info posted in these forums!

.
Nice! Happy that you got it running. Definitely some penetrating oil on everything that moves will be a plus. Congratulations and welcome to the outfit! There are several folks here who are "propeller heads" when it comes to making MEP power.

 

[Guyfang]

Not so sexy as some threads, but anyway.
I picked up my trailer mounted unit at auction 4 years ago. Somehow it belonged to local police dept. She has sat tarped outside until I recently decided it was time to get it going. Of course the batteries were dead when I purchased it and I couldn't recover them. They were red top optimas dated 07 I think. The engine has an 07 tag on it as well. There is a plate below the data plate on the outside stating it was rebuilt in 89.
Using some of the info posted on this forum, I've got it running. My issues are down to fuel gauge reads full which I hope is just a stuck float, (very possable. Its a very common problem. Is the fuel tank plastic, or metal?) and the overload light on the panel stays lit. (try this. Start the set, then flip S3 up, to close the CB2. (If you do not know what I just wrote means, start looking at the doors. There are wire diagrams on them that will tell you what is what.) will the DS-6 light come on? If the DS-6 light comes on, then the problem may be in the A9. If the DS-6 will NOT come on, then we need to look someplace else. Lets try this first, as its an easy thing to check first.) I cannot manually open the shutters to let air pass the radiator. I suppose they are locked up with corrosion. (The thermal control valve connected to the manual opening arm, is filled with bees wax. It indeed often gets stuck. It could also be the bolt that holds the arm to the valve. If its too tight, then it will not move. Have you drained the cooling system? Have you looked into the housing that holds the control valve?) I ran the unit for 10 mins or so and it only seemed to reach 160 deg at no load of course. This particular unit only has a 110 outlet on the rear which works fine. (This set only comes with the 120 volt outlet on the rear. The load terminal board is located on the left side of the set.) I plan on performing the single phase conversion at some point. I will post a picture of the fuel cap housing/filler neck thing im searching for.
Thanks for all the loads of great info posted in these forums!

Open to see comments

 

[Mullaney]

Open to see comments

.
Thanks Guy! I was hoping you would find this post.
We all know that making power isn't my thing for sure!

 

[pinz399]

Open to see comments

Yes the DS6 light comes on in battle short only. Tested good voltage at the output terminals. I will research A9 some more.
I changed all fluids with coolant being the only exception because it looked clean but I needed to add a gallon of distilled water.
Of course all the storage boxes were emptied out. There were 3 copper rods threaded on the ends in the box. I understand assuming is bad, so I think they are ground rods of some sort. If so , I can turn up some pointed ends to thread on them . More research needed for this first though.

Anyone know where I can source the fuel canister pictured above?
Thanks

 

[robertsears1]

On your filler cap thing, what exactly is the problem? I can’t tell from the picture but is it a screen for the fuel going in and it needs cleaning? I recently cleaned two of mine that were not letting the fuel flow in satisfactorily. They seemed to have a waxy coating. The first I damaged by using a pressure washer. I learned my lesson and carb cleaner does the trick. Actually, Advance Auto has a special bogo on Valvoline carb cleaner right now. I must have used 6-8 cans recently.

Robert

 

[Guyfang]

Yes the DS6 light comes on in battle short only. If DS-6 only lights up, (and closes the CB-2, then you need to test the overload relay. There are test procedures in the -34 TM.) Tested good voltage at the output terminals. I will research A9 some more. (This can wait)
I changed all fluids with coolant being the only exception because it looked clean but I needed to add a gallon of distilled water.
Of course all the storage boxes were emptied out. There were 3 copper rods threaded on the ends in the box. I understand assuming is bad, so I think they are ground rods of some sort. If so , I can turn up some pointed ends to thread on them . (There are no pointed ends. Are the connectors between the roods there?) More research needed for this first though.

Anyone know where I can source the fuel canister pictured above?
Thanks

Open to see comments

 

[MixManSC]

This is the grounding rod set that came with my 803a. Should have the threaded couplers, a bolt, ground wire and clamp, and the slide hammer.

 

[pinz399]

On your filler cap thing, what exactly is the problem? I can’t tell from the picture but is it a screen for the fuel going in and it needs cleaning? I recently cleaned two of mine that were not letting the fuel flow in satisfactorily. They seemed to have a waxy coating. The first I damaged by using a pressure washer. I learned my lesson and carb cleaner does the trick. Actually, Advance Auto has a special bogo on Valvoline carb cleaner right now. I must have used 6-8 cans recently.

Robert

The problem is I think its too crusty for a fuel system. I suppose I could clean it up, but I am worried about the corrosion coming right back.
Thanks for the heads up with the carb cleaner.

 

[pinz399]

Open to see comments

The connecting nuts are not present. I can make some of my own.

 

[pinz399]

This is the grounding rod set that came with my 803a. Should have the threaded couplers, a bolt, ground wire and clamp, and the slide hammer.

View attachment 840119

Thanks for that. Appears the couplers are aluminum. Wish i had the hammer!

 

[Guyfang]

The problem is I think its too crusty for a fuel system. I suppose I could clean it up, but I am worried about the corrosion coming right back.
Thanks for the heads up with the carb cleaner.

The corrosion comes from moisture. Fix the moisture problem.

Again, is the fuel tank metal or plastic?

The test procedure for the overload relay starts on page, (TM page #) 3-244, PDF reader page #298. If you do not have the knowledge or test equipment to do the test, take the overload relay, (its in the Tactical Relay Assembly) to someone who does. Its not a hard or complicated test. You can bypass the relay, but it better to fix it right, then half ass it.

 

[Guyfang]

Thanks for that. Appears the couplers are aluminum. Wish i had the hammer!

No, the couplers are not made of aluminum, Its a bronze or brass type metal.

 

[pinz399]

The main fuel tank is plastic.
I'll read up on testing the overload relay and make that call. Luckily we've got some pretty good electrical guys where I work with all the necessary equipment.

 

[Guyfang]

I would tell you to pull the fuel tank out, and clean it REAL well. Its not all that hard. I had about 40-50 sets that all looked like your fuel filler neck. Cleaned then up, and never had another fuel problem again.

 

[MixManSC]

Buddy of mine that served in Iraq said their CO's made them dig the ground rods back out. I asked him why did he not just put the slide hammer on and use it to drive it back up? He got annoyed.... LOL.

Anyways - just checked. The rod couplers are 2-3/4" long and are bronze or brass.

Mine was missing the hammer. They are not cheap.... I got mine on eBay and it cost me $70 shipped.

There is one other on there that is the correct type but local pickup only in New Jersey for pretty cheap. https://www.ebay.com/itm/224130560266

 

[Guyfang]

I had my master metal worker make the slide hammers for my unit, and other folks. Most of them wound up in the scrap metal bin at DRMO. The thing is fool proof. Round, heavy and 3 holes.

 

[pinz399]

Well, I have got back to playing with this again.
I removed the set from the trailer and hoping to power the home with it during outtages.
I had great success with the single phase conversion late last year.
So anyway, Murphy showed up after I fired it up the other day (which i love how easy this things starts)
I have no ac at the lugs now.
What the hell? I fumbled my way through one of the TMs and I guess I will be looking into the voltage regulator.

 

[peapvp]

Does ur volt gauge show any voltage while you hold the S? Switch in Start?