MEP-006A to MEP-105A Precise Conversion Kit

[Brandon314159]

Hey all,

has anyone heard of this kit being offered by Oshkosh Equipment Sales, LLC?

Here is an ebay listing link:
Utility 60Hz to Precise 60Hz Generator Conversion Kit - eBay (item 380272082366 end time Oct-23-10 06:25:35 PDT)

It appears they are selling everything you need to convert a MEP-006A utility over to a MEP-105A precise.

Horror stories? Good things? Price is about right for something that may soon become impossible to locate. Been talking to Randy with their sales department and he gave me some basic instructions (may require a hold drill & tapped for the mag pickup if the bellhousing doesn't have a hole for it) but other than that, bolts right on! Connects to the outside connection of the IP and then the main throttle lever is set to full throttle and wired there or locked out (I like idling my engine down so I likely wouldn't lock it permanently).

Thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[Isaac-1]

I recently converted a somewhat similar (Allis Chalmers / Roosa Master - Standyne) commercial 24V DC control system 125KW Onan generator from mechanical governor to an electronic governor using modern off the shelf parts bought on ebay, etc. I think my total parts cost was around the same as this kit maybe a little less (Speed sensor, electronic governor controller (GAC ESD-2400 series), some double shielded pickup wire, a few feet of hook up wire, wire loom and a cheap control relay) , however I suspect my installation was a lot easier as I used an integrated actuator that replaces the upper portion of the stanadyne pump body (GAC-100-24). So overall it looks like a fair deal, particulalry if you want to stay original, however there are several brands of electronic governors; GAC, AMBAC, Barber Coleman (now Dyna Products by Woodward) that offer integrated Stanadyne/Roosa Master Actuators and controllers so don't feel this is your last chance to upgrade to electronic governing.

Ike


p.s. I went with GAC because I found a deal on the actuator which tends to be the most expensive part. Also had to have a hole drilled and tapped, I used the timing cover over the flywheel as it was easy to unbolt and take to a drill press.

p.p.s. afterward I found there was a pre-drilled pickup hole on the bottom of the engine, in my case access to that one was nearly impossible, so the timing cover tap was still probably the better option.

 

[Brandon314159]

p.s. I went with GAC because I found a deal on the actuator which tends to be the most expensive part. Also had to have a hole drilled and tapped, I used the timing cover over the flywheel as it was easy to unbolt and take to a drill press.
/QUOTE]

Hey,

Thanks for the reply!

Is that a direct bolt-on to the pump? Does it require any pump-shop style adjustments or is it pretty un-intrusive. I'm not against getting inside one of these pumps, however I just had this one rebuilt (good ole' flex disk torched after many years of non-use) so I'd prefer to not mess up any adjustments.

Any good sources of for the GAC actuator? Sounds like the slick deal versus doing the rod/arm/mounting garbage. Plus less moving parts to lubricate.

Thanks again!

 

[Isaac-1]

It looks easy enough, just 4 screws and maybe a new o-ring seal (I had it "professionally" installed by the rebuild shop when I had the pump rebuilt). I say professionally as they obviously did not read the directions even though I brought them a copy, so I had to go back behind them and readjust the mechanical governor setting. I would call it a 10-15 minute job on the engine including cleaning up the pump so no debris gets in. As to GAC parts source try surplusman.com you will probably have to call them to get prices ( I think I bought one of my parts from them, I know I priced stuff there)

Ike

p.s. note on the GAC brand speed controllers that some are universal voltage 12-40V DC, others are 12 or 24V specific, and the actuators need to match your system voltage (24V I assume).

 

[Brandon314159]

Affirmative, 24V system here.

Does the actuator easily clear the day-tank directly above? Seemed like it was a little tight there but it might just squeeze in?

I will jingle that place and see what sort of prices they have. For the relay circuitry, you are just doing some stuff so that the gen-set shutdown signal to the IP (stock) instead interrupts the signal to the speed controller (IE shutdown by putting the actuator in STOP mode)?

Thanks!

 

[Isaac-1]

Mine does not have a day-tank, so I can't tell you the clearance, but I do recall one of the other brands of actuators has an L shaped body and a lower profile (some brands use a rotary actuator internally some use a linear actuator).

Ike

 

[Isaac-1]

I measured my GAC actuator height, it is 2.75 inches from the O-ring seal to the top of the actuator, wiring pigtail is on the side. My original cover measures about 1.25 inches from the O-ring to the top of the solenoid screw terminals (yours may be different) so about 1.5 inches taller than the original cover. There is a bleed allen screw on the top of the GAC acturator to bleed air out of the unit when it is first installed so you would need at least temporary access for that, as well as some clearnance at initial installation.

Ike