• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Mep-803a help

W

wkelly

New member
8
16
3
Location
Ontario canada
Help required ,I have an MEP 803 that worked perfectly, it has 2400 hours on it. We had a snow storm coming so I thought I would start it for a while to make sure everything was fine. I preheated it turned to start and it fired right up, I held the switch for a couple seconds till the oil pressure went up and just as I let go of the switch it shut down. Everything is dead, no green dash lights, no test lights, it won't do anything with the dead crank, it's like a fuse blew. I checked all the fuses I could find, talked to a man that repairs them, (he steered me to this website) and he said check the battery power, the batteries test as new, test the CR1 diode, I changed the S1 switch from the Blue plastic on to the New Electro Switch 75902LV, I tested the E-Stop switch, all these tested fine and still nothing not even a click anywhere. Any idea's? any help will be appreciated. I am in Ontario Canada with no one close to help.
 
K

kloppk

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,138
3,514
113
Location
Pepperell, Massachusetts
Good. You're going to need to do some DC voltage measurements to see where the 24 volts DC is getting lost.
Set the meter to measure DC volts.
Pu the dead crank in the Normal position.
Emergency Off button pulled out
S1 in Prime/Run
CB1 pushed in
Connect the meters Negative lead to the ground stud on the right corner of the front panel.
Check for about 24 volts DC at the following places.
1) The left big terminal on MT4
2) The right big terminal on MT4
3) Both leads of CR1. Be sure CR1. The labeling can be misleading.
4) Both used terminals on emergency off switch
5) Both terminals on CB1
6) Terminals 2,4,6 & 8 on S1

Post up what you find and we'll go from there.
 
W

wkelly

New member
8
16
3
Location
Ontario canada
kloppk said:
Good. You're going to need to do some DC voltage measurements to see where the 24 volts DC is getting lost.
Set the meter to measure DC volts.
Pu the dead crank in the Normal position.
Emergency Off button pulled out
S1 in Prime/Run
CB1 pushed in
Connect the meters Negative lead to the ground stud on the right corner of the front panel.
Check for about 24 volts DC at the following places.
1) The left big terminal on MT4
2) The right big terminal on MT4
3) Both leads of CR1. Be sure CR1. The labeling can be misleading.
4) Both used terminals on emergency off switch
5) Both terminals on CB1
6) Terminals 2,4,6 & 8 on S1

Post up what you find and we'll go from there.
Click to expand...

Hi

So I took the list and did all the readings as you said.

MT4 left terminal 25.83V
MT4 Right terminal 25.83V
CR1 Right side 25.8V
CR1 Left side .04V
Emergency stop Switch Both sides .04V
CB1 fuse both terminals .04V
Terminals on S1 Switch 2,4,6,8 are all .04V

Terminals 2 and 4 on my new S1 switch are bridged together (thats the way it came), maybe thats the way it's supposed to be. I asked one person if that was correct and he said leave it the way it came and don't change anything so I didn't. I am only asking because you wanted a reading off those two terminals on the S1 switch.

Hope these readings help!

Thank you.
 
DieselAddict

DieselAddict

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,531
2,058
113
Location
Efland, NC
wkelly said:
"Kloppk" asked me to to do the test with the dead crank switch on " normal" when checking CR1 like he said the Right side is 25.8V and the left is .04V. If I turn the dead crank switch to " Off" I have 25.8V on both sides of CR1.
Click to expand...
Understood. As Kurt said, its a bad diode. If there is any kind of electronics shop around you the part should be readily available. It isn't anything special. Very common. If you can't find it locally an online retailer like Mouser can have one to you in a few days.
 
W

wkelly

New member
8
16
3
Location
Ontario canada
kloppk said:
Wes,
The diode CR1 is bad. There should be about 24 volts on both leads. CR1 needs to be replaced. The part number is 1N5406. When replacing it be sure to note which end of the old CR1 has the white ring around it. Install the new CR1 in the same orientation.
Click to expand...

OK Thanks I will try and find one of them and maybe some spares for my other 803's. The only way CR1 had power on both sides is when the Dead crank Switch was in the " OFF" Position. Thanks I will make sure I put it in the same way the old one is.

Thank you for your Expert Help

Wes
 
Light in the Dark

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,819
5,904
113
Location
MA
If you had to run the set with the bad CR1, you could make a small alligator clip jumper cable to go from the RH leg to the LH leg and bypass the diode itself. I neglected to tell you that the testing was with the S1 in prime (and I assumed the DC was set to NORMAL, which was a mistake). Glad its been squared away for you though.
 
W

wkelly

New member
8
16
3
Location
Ontario canada
kloppk said:
Wes,
The diode CR1 is bad. There should be about 24 volts on both leads. CR1 needs to be replaced. The part number is 1N5406. When replacing it be sure to note which end of the old CR1 has the white ring around it. Install the new CR1 in the same orientation.
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot for your help, the new CR1 is in and it is back working again. Hard to believe a little 80 cent piece shuts the whole thing down.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
110,827members
165,283threads
2,325,564posts
1,118online users
Top
✖
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks