MEP-804A Coolant Temperature Sender Part Number

[Evvy Fesler]

Greetings to all!

My MEP-804A coolant temperature sender is missing the nut that clamps the wire connector. It also looks corroded and I haven't tested it yet. I need help! I found the test and replacement procedure, but can't locate the part number. Does anyone know the part number and or where it is referenced in -24P?

 

[Evvy Fesler]

I found it!

Yep... if you can't call it by a name that mostly everyone uses, you know, coolant temperature sender, call is something that only an electrical engineer would understand! Of course, you could call any temperature resistive device by that generic name. Grrrr! And of course, the part can't be found. Double grrrr...
Mine is good, I think, because it seems to vary resistance with temperature. I ran a crude study. At 90-degrees F, the temperature today in sunny NC, produced a resistance of 380+ ohms. Running the engine to temperature, assuming 180-F, brought the resistance down to 225-ohms. I don't know if any of you can confirm similar results? That would be great for two reasons: 1) it would confirm that my sender is good, and 2) I can contact various manufacturers and see if an equivalent item can be sourced.

I'll note that the TM procedure for testing the gauge would have you set a potentiometer (variable resistor) to 58.5 to 71.5 ohms to produce a gauge reading of 156 to 204 degrees F. I'm hard pressed to explain the differences between the findings because I don't know if my sending unit is functioning as expected.

My best to all,

Evvy

 

[peapvp]

I found it! View attachment 877246

At 90-degrees F, the temperature today in sunny NC, produced a resistance of 380+ ohms. Running the engine to temperature, assuming 180-F, brought the resistance down to 225-ohms.

Evvy,
Before we go any further.
Did you take these measurements with the corrosion still in/on the sensors or did you remove the corrosion and the contact is now sparkling clean and doesn’t add any additional resistance any more?
How did you start your Genset since you haven’t told us that you found your start issue yet and repaired it?

Peter

 

[peapvp]

Ah and Evvy, post pictures of your Genset. Plenty off them, any and all detail.
We are suckers for pictures here…..

Peter

 

[Evvy Fesler]

Ah and Evvy, post pictures of your Genset. Plenty off them, any and all detail.
We are suckers for pictures here…..

Peter

Hi Peter,

Pictures: I’ve been posting them as I go along in the various threads that I’ve started. I suppose I got lazy with this post.

How did I start the generator? I can start it if I persistently crank it albeit for just a few seconds at a time.

I didn’t remove the temp sender and clean it. It was a crude test where if someone told me that they got much different results and I could easily source it, then I would just replace it and be done with it. It’s not easily sourced that I can find so I’ll have to be more diligent in how I derive its characteristics. I’ll probably rig something to heat coolant on our campstove and then record ohms and correlated temperature rise.

With that said, it’s noteworthy that there are other problems with this set and they may be interrelated
1) Three blown gauges: fuel level, oil pressure and coolant temperature. They tested bad using the procedures in the TM, and… they are stuck in abnormal positions like always full, always no pressure, and always 180-degrees. That’s over all conditions.

3) Someone has attempted to rewire the components in the engine compartment. They did this by splicing 20-AWG mil-spec to the existing control wiring using inline splices. So far they have made correct connections, but I haven’t checked everything yet.

2) Low voltage. Noteworthy is that when I try to flash the generator the engine feels the load.

3) Fuel sender wasn’t bolted down. It’s shiney in my pictures in that thread, but that’s only because I cleaned it.

4) Produces constant blue smoke. Coolant level has stayed pretty much the same with just sox hours accumulated operation. I drained the water separator and didn’t observe any water.

5) The ring that goes into the pintle is bent suggesting that someone jackknifed the trailer backing up.

Following S.S. guidance, I’ve kept these issues in separate threads.

I love solving problems, always have, and I’m on track to having fun with this generator!

Evvy-

 

[Ray70]

If you determine the temp sender is bad:
Not only is it occasionally hard to decipher the Electrical Engineer's item descriptions some times, but when you search for parts, if you don't find it right away, get creative and try other search criteria, other search engines, Try the PN, then try the NSN# , try the description , eventually something will turn up new numbers and equivalents etc. and eventually a source.... https://www.partdeal.com/datcon-temperature-sender-100-240f-02094-00.html

 

[Evvy Fesler]

If you determine the temp sender is bad:
Not only is it occasionally hard to decipher the Electrical Engineer's item descriptions some times, but when you search for parts, if you don't find it right away, get creative and try other search criteria, other search engines, Try the PN, then try the NSN# , try the description , eventually something will turn up new numbers and equivalents etc. and eventually a source.... https://www.partdeal.com/datcon-temperature-sender-100-240f-02094-00.html

Hi Ray!

Is that it? I ran across several lookalikes, but none had operating characteristics. I only had the part number from TM -24P. I’m still struggling with the TMs, but getting better at it every day. Still… I could find the NSN.

Evvy-

 

[peapvp]

Hi Peter,

Pictures: I’ve been posting them as I go along in the various threads that I’ve started. I suppose I got lazy with this post.

How did I start the generator? I can start it if I persistently crank it albeit for just a few seconds at a time.

I didn’t remove the temp sender and clean it. It was a crude test where if someone told me that they got much different results and I could easily source it, then I would just replace it and be done with it. It’s not easily sourced that I can find so I’ll have to be more diligent in how I derive its characteristics. I’ll probably rig something to heat coolant on our campstove and then record ohms and correlated temperature rise.

With that said, it’s noteworthy that there are other problems with this set and they may be interrelated
1) Three blown gauges: fuel level, oil pressure and coolant temperature. They tested bad using the procedures in the TM, and… they are stuck in abnormal positions like always full, always no pressure, and always 180-degrees. That’s over all conditions.

3) Someone has attempted to rewire the components in the engine compartment. They did this by splicing 20-AWG mil-spec to the existing control wiring using inline splices. So far they have made correct connections, but I haven’t checked everything yet.

2) Low voltage. Noteworthy is that when I try to flash the generator the engine feels the load.

3) Fuel sender wasn’t bolted down. It’s shiney in my pictures in that thread, but that’s only because I cleaned it.

4) Produces constant blue smoke. Coolant level has stayed pretty much the same with just sox hours accumulated operation. I drained the water separator and didn’t observe any water.

5) The ring that goes into the pintle is bent suggesting that someone jackknifed the trailer backing up.

Following S.S. guidance, I’ve kept these issues in separate threads.

I love solving problems, always have, and I’m on track to having fun with this generator!

Evvy-

Hi Evvy,

I hadn’t looked at your posts as they were more mechanically / fuel / oil related.
just saw your pics. The wiring thing you got going there looks interesting.
You basically have to check wire by wire. The wiring diagrams are in the end of the -24 TM starting with FO for foldout

That should keep you busy for a while.
Peter

 

[Ray70]

On the Temp sender, that should be the correct one. When you poke around with the NSN# 5905-01-392-8825 you will find a hand full of equivalent PN's associated with it that aren't listed in the TM. including 88-22322 and 02094-00 ( which is the one I sent ) Now Google 02094-00 and you will probably come up with a few other sources.

 

[kloppk]

You can use Parttarget.com to get all the PNs for or a given NSN or PN.

Put in 5905-01-392-8825 and you'll be get:

126864	06555	Beede Electrical Instrument Co. Inc.	A	A
88-22322	30554	Department of Defense Project	A	A
02094-00	1NBV2	Maxima Technologies	A	F
02094-00	16476	Maxima Technologies & Systems LLC

 

[Evvy Fesler]

Y'all are the best coaches ever!

 

[Ray70]

Yup! Parttarget.com was the one I used too!
Now for my next trick... If you find yourself looking for Hydraulic items on Ebay / Facebook, etc.... try misspelling it intentionally as "Hydrolic" and you'll be amazed at the unseen deals you will come up with and how many people can't spell hydraulic correctly!

 

[Guyfang]

I can't spell hydrollic! Making fun of me?

Any time you see a part number with 88-#####, or a CAGE Code of 30554, this part will never be found by manufacturer. These codes were generated by MEP, (Mobile Electric Power) a Government office. In Ebay, and like platforms, the numbers will be listed, but lead you to no place useful, when looking for a manufacturer source.

 

[Evvy Fesler]

I can't spell hydrollic! Making fun of me?

Any time you see a part number with 88-#####, or a CAGE Code of 30554, this part will never be found by manufacturer. These codes were generated by MEP, (Mobile Electric Power) a Government office. In Ebay, and like platforms, the numbers will be listed, but lead you to no place useful, when looking for a manufacturer source.

I always thought it was spelled hydroelectric. Durned Army Corps engineers!

 

[Evvy Fesler]

I always thought it was spelled hydroelectric. Durned Army Corps engineers!

I was just thinking that that may sound rude. I’m an electrical engineer and was attached to the Army Engineer Corps. My specialty was hydroelectricity.

 

[Guyfang]

Not to me anyway!