mep002 FVR 4006 Regulator Source?

[David Sims]

I'm in need of a replacement 24v Solid State Regulator FVR 4006 for my mep002 generator.

Does anyone have a source for these?

Thanks.

 

[DieselBob]

Here is one source.

Voltage Regulator/Rectifier (Battery Charging) For Onan MEP-002A / MEP-003A 5KW and 10KW Generator Sets, FVR4006

 

[Polycop]

Delks Surplus or a guy from the Sparks and Arcs board posted this:

"
Someone, me included, is always looking for something for their sets. In my case, I needed a set of injector lines, some shrouding and some other small stuff. I found it with Tom (didn't get his last name), in Baytown, TX, who has a dozen or so 002s and 003s he is parting out at very reasonable prices. Usual disclaimer: not associated, satisfied customer, etc, etc.

His phone numbers are 281-422-3200 Office and 832-323-1445 Cell.

Happy hunting ... and finding

Peyton "

 

[David Sims]

MEP Parts Source

Polycop,

That was a good suggestion for a used regulator.

Gulf Coast Trucks
PO Box 360
Baytown TX 77522
Gene Schrader (Tom helped me)
info@gctrucks.com
You should also find a website by the same name.

I ordered Monday afternoon; he had a used tested regulator on the shelf and mailed it that day. It arrived USPS Priority Mail Thrusday am. The receipt is in the shop but I believe it was $45 for the regulator and about $5 for shipping. I appreciate the quick service as my shop is powered by the MEP.

The dear MEP 002 is up and running and charging as she should. I'm pleased with the deal. Tom also had a new regulator in the $140 range. He has a number of parts 002, 003 and other MEP models as well.

 

[David Sims]

MEP 002 Charging Problem

002 charging problem
Well I'm red faced about thinking I had my MEP002 charging system fixed when it's not. The MEP002 is a good running reman with 52 hours on it.

By the manual test with a new Fluke Meter:
Stator was in range. Running @1800 33.1volts. Not running 0.7ohms continuity.

I replaced the Voltage Regulator with a tested used one. Running at the fuse 0.47 amps ac where it should be 6.5 amps..."when loaded by a discharged battery".

So Tom at Gulf Coast Trucks was good enough to send another V Regulator along with a Capaciter. Installed both and running at the fuse it test at 0.48 amps ac.

I read a bunch of old post and made sure the Capaciter was hooked up correctly the first time. Positive to the VR red wire and the other to ground. The battery cable does not arc when connected.

other test:
To the V Regulator I have 24.6DC volts to the red wire both running and not running.

The other 2 wires from the V Regulator have 8.1 ac volts and 2.1 ac volts.

I removed and cleaned the ground strap below the starter. I removed and cleaned the terminal block.

I'm out of ideas - any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[PeterD]

...
I replaced the Voltage Regulator with a tested used one. Running at the fuse 0.47 amps ac where it should be 6.5 amps..."when loaded by a discharged battery". ...

A/C? Not DC? The only place (that I know of, but don't have one of this model) were there would be A/C is the stator output. If you had a defective stator diode(s), you might have A/C on the output, likely low current, and no charging. Have you checked the alternator's rectifiers to be sure they are OK? If not, I'll make that my WAG...

 

[Polycop]

Do you have your meter set right? I remember when I was trying to sort my charging system out I was trying to read D/C when I had my meter set on A/C (which didn't work out so well).

Just sayin...

 

[David Sims]

A/C? Not DC? The only place (that I know of, but don't have one of this model) were there would be A/C is the stator output. If you had a defective stator diode(s), you might have A/C on the output, likely low current, and no charging.

Thanks - AC I believe is correct.

Have you checked the alternator's rectifiers to be sure they are OK? If not, I'll make that my WAG...

As far as I know there is no alternator on this unit.

 

[David Sims]

[

Do you have your meter set right? I remember when I was trying to sort my charging system out I was trying to read D/C when I had my meter set on A/C (which didn't work out so well).

Just sayin...

Well it's going to be something simple like this - I hope - but I did tripple check myself on the meter setting - I appreciate it .... keep em coming.

 

[David Sims]

MEP 002 - not charging - update

I retested the Voltage Regulator. Results:

@ fuse not running. No ac or dc present.
@ fuse running. ac volts 0.42. ac amps 0. dc 0.

Testing the 3 bottom wires. Left to right.

not running Wire #1. No ac or dc present.
running Wire #1. ac volts 8.0. ac amps 0. dc 4.3.

not running Wire #2. No ac or dc present.
running Wire #2. ac volts 1.9. ac amps 0. dc 0.7.

not running Wire #3 w/red band. ac volts 0. ac amps 0. dc 24.6.
running Wire # 3 w/red band. ac volts 0. ac amps 0. dc 24.3.

"Running" is at 1,800 rpm with no load. Tested with a Fluke 322 meter.

I'm open to any ideas. Thanks, David

 

[Bill W]

Did you check the fuse holder? My fuse was good but the spring wire inside the fuse holder was bad and not making contact with the fuse, Just throwing it out there

 

[Speddmon]

I retested the Voltage Regulator. Results:

@ fuse not running. No ac or dc present.
@ fuse running. ac volts 0.42. ac amps 0. dc 0.

Testing the 3 bottom wires. Left to right.

not running Wire #1. No ac or dc present.
running Wire #1. ac volts 8.0. ac amps 0. dc 4.3.

not running Wire #2. No ac or dc present.
running Wire #2. ac volts 1.9. ac amps 0. dc 0.7.

not running Wire #3 w/red band. ac volts 0. ac amps 0. dc 24.6.
running Wire # 3 w/red band. ac volts 0. ac amps 0. dc 24.3.

"Running" is at 1,800 rpm with no load. Tested with a Fluke 322 meter.

I'm open to any ideas. Thanks, David

Just a suggestion, double check your stator output again. That would be the wire #1 and #2 you refer to above. When running you should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 33 volts or so (with one meter lead on wire 1 and one on wire 2, set for AC volts). If you have 33 volts and the fuse and fuse holder are both good, then you have a bad VR. Whether they said it was good or not, it sure sounds bad to me.

Just a side note...I have never seen it happen on a small glass fuse, but I have seen it on larger 30 amp cartridge fuses on a 250 VDC system, we've had some "Partially" blown fuses where I work, and make troubleshooting a royal pain. The fuses would show continuity with a meter, and show voltage passing through them, but as soon as any kind of amperage tried to pass they would open up. Remove the load and your are back to normal showing continuity and voltage again. As I said though, I've never seen anything like that on a small glass fuse.

 

[PeterD]

...
Just a side note...I have never seen it happen on a small glass fuse, but I have seen it on larger 30 amp cartridge fuses on a 250 VDC system, we've had some "Partially" blown fuses where I work, and make troubleshooting a royal pain. The fuses would show continuity with a meter, and show voltage passing through them, but as soon as any kind of amperage tried to pass they would open up. Remove the load and your are back to normal showing continuity and voltage again. As I said though, I've never seen anything like that on a small glass fuse.

I've also seen strange things with fuses that seemed good, and were not. I always try to test by replacing (was taught that in the military!) and not testing. Some people look at a fuse and say "it is good" as if a visual inspection tells them something--not a chance, I've seen so many that were open at the far end, under the end caps where it was not visible.

 

[David Sims]

fuse holder

Did you check the fuse holder? My fuse was good but the spring wire inside the fuse holder was bad and not making contact with the fuse, Just throwing it out there

Bill, My original fuse holder was questionable as the metal ring on the outside of the housing was a little loose. Last week I went to Granger and picked up another. The replacement is not as the original in that it does not mount to the backing plate. It's just an in line fuse holder currently hanging out the front side of the backing plate.

 

[David Sims]

Stator test

Just a suggestion, double check your stator output again. That would be the wire #1 and #2 you refer to above. When running you should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 33 volts or so (with one meter lead on wire 1 and one on wire 2, set for AC volts). If you have 33 volts and the fuse and fuse holder are both good, then you have a bad VR. Whether they said it was good or not, it sure sounds bad to me.

Speddmon, Retested this morning: Running at 1800rpm I got 33.2 ac volts.
Not running 0.6 ohms to 0.7 ohms.

Test at the fuse holder was 0.42 ac volts.

Just a side note...I have never seen it happen on a small glass fuse, but I have seen it on larger 30 amp cartridge fuses on a 250 VDC system, we've had some "Partially" blown fuses where I work, and make troubleshooting a royal pain. The fuses would show continuity with a meter, and show voltage passing through them, but as soon as any kind of amperage tried to pass they would open up. Remove the load and your are back to normal showing continuity and voltage again. As I said though, I've never seen anything like that on a small glass fuse.

On the fuses I put in a new one this morning before I tested above. The fuse is a BUSS AGC 15 AMP 32 V.

***And then I decided I would pull off the capacitor to put the old one back on again to try it... and found the positive wire broken near the base.

Speddmon, In an in an old thread you listed the capacitor spec. as
50 Microfarad 75 volt DC. I'm on a hunt for a new one now. Thanks, David

 

[PeterD]

If that is the specifications, then...

Two of these, wired in series (to get above the 75 volt specification) would work for a test if nothing else. 100µF 50V 20% Radial-lead Electrolytic Capacitor - RadioShack.com

Just watch the polarity when you wire them up.

 

[David Sims]

If that is the specifications, then...

Two of these, wired in series (to get above the 75 volt specification) would work for a test if nothing else. 100µF 50V 20% Radial-lead Electrolytic Capacitor - RadioShack.com

Just watch the polarity when you wire them up.

PeterD, That was a creative solution for testing. I would need to take some time and work on new skills to pull it off. Another member went with a 75-TVA1343 from Mouser.Com. But it is out of the given spec range. In case my copy paste does not work, the difference is the Mouser unit is 100volt, not 75 volt. Is the difference enough to keep looking? Thanks, David

Product Detail
All Products » Passive Components » Capacitors » Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors » Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded » TVA1343

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Mouser Part #: 75-TVA1343 Manufacturer Part #: TVA1343

Manufacturer: Vishay/Sprague

Description: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 50uF 100volts

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Manufacturer: Vishay Product Category: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded RoHS: No Capacitance: 50 uF Tolerance: 20 % Voltage Rating: 100 Volts Operating Temperature Range: - 40 C to + 85 C Termination Style: Axial Dimensions: 9.525 mm Dia. x 31.75 mm L Product: Low Leakage Electrolytic Capacitors

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[Speddmon]

Buy it...the voltage rating is basically just the maximum voltage the capacitor will handle without breaking down. You could probably get by with a 50 volt cap, but if there are any spikes induced by the generator portion (which is why that cap is there to begin with) they could easily be over 50 volts.

So, when you put the old one back on did it fix your problem?? I can't imagine that it would have, but I am very curious.

 

[David Sims]

Buy it...the voltage rating is basically just the maximum voltage the capacitor will handle without breaking down. You could probably get by with a 50 volt cap, but if there are any spikes induced by the generator portion (which is why that cap is there to begin with) they could easily be over 50 volts.

So, when you put the old one back on did it fix your problem?? I can't imagine that it would have, but I am very curious.

No, after I saw it was broken I did not go further. Installing it I was not comfortable with how I had to bend the wires to mount it on the backing plate and make the connections.

I'm going to proceed with the purchase. While I'm waiting on it to get here I'll play with the old capacitor. It is ruined or can I reconnect the wire?

 

[Bill W]

When my genset batts sparked when I hooked up the batts I went and pulled off the capacitor because from reading past post the sparking was bad only to find out recently that it was suppose to do that ( thanks PeterD ) however my capacitor is still disconnected and my genset DC system is still charging. I also noted that on the civie Onan 10djc genset there is no part listing for a capacitor so I'm still curious to how inportant it is to have one

On edit I meant "Thanks PeterD"