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MEP002A - voltage/hertz issue

mopardude

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Hello, Recently purchased 2 MEP002A generators to restore. Been sitting a few years. Finally got one running, however, I can only get 110V out of it and the voltage is irregular. I can't get the hertz to go over 50. Looking for any advice on how to solve issue.
 

Triple Jim

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Welcome to the board, mopardude!

Frequency depends on engine speed. If it's putting out 50 Hz, it's running at 1,500 rpm instead of the 1,800 it takes for 60 Hz. Solve that problem first and then see what the voltage is doing. Have you adjusted the governor speed with the black knob at the end of the cable?

Also, have you downloaded the manuals?
 

mopardude

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Welcome to the board, mopardude!

Frequency depends on engine speed. If it's putting out 50 Hz, it's running at 1,500 rpm instead of the 1,800 it takes for 60 Hz. Solve that problem first and then see what the voltage is doing. Have you adjusted the governor speed with the black knob at the end of the cable?

Also, have you downloaded the manuals?
I haven't downloaded any manuals as I haven't found any yet. but when I increase the RPMs the Hz drop.
 

Ray70

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FYI, the manuals are all available at the top of this web page in the "TM" area, just follow through till you find the 002 or 003
It is physically impossible for the ACTUAL frequency to drop as engine RPM increases.
If you are judging it by your Hz meter on the generator, your frequency transducer is probably on it's way out and causing incorrect readings.
First thing I would do is either use a good multi meter with a Hz setting or simply buy a Kill-A-Watt meter on-line or from Home Depot, it has both frequency and voltage readings available, just plug it into your courtesy outlet.
 

mopardude

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FYI, the manuals are all available at the top of this web page in the "TM" area, just follow through till you find the 002 or 003
It is physically impossible for the ACTUAL frequency to drop as engine RPM increases.
If you are judging it by your Hz meter on the generator, your frequency transducer is probably on it's way out and causing incorrect readings.
First thing I would do is either use a good multi meter with a Hz setting or simply buy a Kill-A-Watt meter on-line or from Home Depot, it has both frequency and voltage readings available, just plug it into your courtesy outlet.
Thanks. Tested Hz w/ multimeter at socket at full RPM. I can't get it above 51 Hz. Also tested wires at the gauges and the readings are all over the place. I'll need to find a new frequency transducer.
 

mopardude

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Also, give us a run down of what you have checked / tried so far. That will help us determine if you have an issue with the governor / fuel delivery / etc.
What I've done so far: cleaned all the fuel system. Governor seems to be working ok. It is kind of hard to start from cold. I'll take pictures tomorrow and upload as well.
 

Ray70

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On the transducer, Forget trying to get the original replacement, the price ( if available ) tends to be outrageous.
However there are 2 other solutions.
1) there are tons of digital and analog gages available that are direct reading, allowing you to eliminate the transducer.
2) There was a similar TRC transducer available not long ago on Ebay for a great price. Those are all gone by the looks, but I think this may be the same part.

I know @Light in the Dark had also purchased some from the original auction, perhaps he still has 1 and could verify the PN?
 

Light in the Dark

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mopardude

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new mexico
I ordered a new transducer from the suggested website. Thanks. What would cause intermittent power from the generator? I have to turn it off and restart to get it to produce any power...
 

mopardude

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new mexico
I have not noticed anything when the power drops out the gauges don't work at the moment waiting for my frequency transducer to come in. i will run the generator tomorrow and pay attention to what it dose when it drops out, what could cause it not to make power on start up ? thanks.
 

Ray70

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Sometimes starting it and releasing the start switch too soon can prevent proper field flashing, but on an 002 it is pretty rare to be able to build enough oil pressure to close the fuel solenoid holding circuit faster than flashing the field, so pretty unlikely.
I assume you oil and temp safeties are still in place and you have to hold the switch in the cranking position for several seconds before it will stay running?
Without the gages how are you monitoring AC output? With a meter or something plugged into the outlet?
I assume when you loose AC, you loose it everywhere... both the lugs and courtesy outlet?
 
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