Mep006a 60kw

[icb818]

I have a MEP006A 60kw generator. Starts up fine, can't get voltage or Hertz up to where it will power things correctly. I think it might be an exciter problem... I put a volt meter on the on-board outlet and only get 39 volts... no matter the throttle setting, I can't get voltage required to run our facility. I was told to get a male to male end plug and plug into each outlet on generator in hopes of -energizing- the exciter?? I dunno.. it didn't work... another fella -former- military, told me when starting the generator, Hold the start toggle switch up/on until I get voltage reading... that didn't work... all others I've talked to in the 'generator industry' won't touch a refurbished military generator with a 10ft pole... they just keep saying.. "You Can't" as in Fix it?? Hmm... Really?? I kinda find that hard to believe...
So, anybody, former military dudes out there in Ohio, can ya give an old ice cream factory a hand??

please and thank you

David/Weldons.com

 

[jamawieb]

I don't believe you have an exciter problem. Your formal military fella was correct about exciting the field by holding the start switch to the start position. You can also do this while the generator is already running. If your not getting hertz and voltage, I would think that you have a problem with the control cubicle. Have you seen this generator run correctly or is this unit new to you? Also do you have a meter that will read hertz to see what the reading is in the outlet?

 

[jamawieb]

Here is some information for you. This is information found in TM-34.
b. Electrical Malfunctions and Isolation. A malfunction
of the main generator is usually indicated
by low output voltage, or no voltage output. To isolate
a malfunction to the main generator, proceed as
follows:
(1) Tag and disconnect the two top leads on
terminals 15 and 16 of TB16 (located on the current
transformer mounting plate). Connect one side of
a dc ammeter to one of the terminals (15 or 16) and
an adjustable dc voltage source to the other terminal
and the dc ammeter. The adjustment shouId be set
to mint mum voltage.
(2) If the set is a 50/60 Hz set, select 60 Hz
and start the engine. Bring the speed up to 1800 rpm
manually and turn on the adjustable dc power supply.
Adjust the dc voltage so that the output voltage (no
load) reads 208 or 416 volts (depending on low or high
voltage connection). The dc ammeter should read between
1.25 and 1.55 amperes to produce either 208
or 416 volts.
(3) If the set is a 400 Hz set, start the engine
and bring it up to 2000 rpm. Turn on the adjustable
dc power supply. Adjust the dc voltage so that the
output voltage (no load) reads 208 or 416 volts, (depending
on low or high voltage connection). The dc
ammeter should read between 3.0 and 3.65 amperes
to produce either 208 or 416 volts.
(4) If the dc ammeter indicates incorrect input
exciter current to obtain rated voltage in steps
(2) or (3) above, the generator has failed. Proceed
with the following steps. If the output is as specified,
the excitation system assembly has failed (refer
to paragraph 8-1). The following steps are presented
to enable isolation of the fault within the generator.
Only steps (5), (6) and (7) would normally
be done without some disassembly of the generator.
(5) Remove six bolts securing air intake grille
and remove griIle. Remove screws, cover plate,
and gasket from generator endbell. See figure 9-1.
Remove bolts from the six diodes on the exciter
rotor frame, one at a time, replacing each diode
after testing. Test diodes per paragraph 14-12b.
9-1

 

[icb818]

I have had it working and supplying power to our facility in the past... This past summer, we miraculously, didn't have a power failure to where we needed to power the facility... the last couple weeks, in the winter of course, we've had 2 in which, I couldn't use the generator... I usually 'exercise' it -so to speak- meaning I've run the unit for bout 20-25 mins monthly, but not with a load... I did notice throughout the summer that my gauges weren't registering correct HZ... etc... this is way outta of my wheel house... I can barely follow solutions you have suggested... the unit had approx 40 hrs on it.. I've had it for 3 yrs now... I've had loads on it over this time a few times...

in Ref to holding the Start switch on/up while it's starting and after it's started... I did that... it did not produce any results... no change in Volts or Hertz...

at full throttle, a volt meter registers about 39 volts from the outlets that are on board the generator...
The electrician that made my connections to the manual throw switches looked at it... but I think it's out of his realm... he thought it might be the Exciter.. why or how he came upon that conclusion, I don't know... all I know, this is truly outta my wheel house... I just know how to make Ice Cream...

Might you have some Networking friends that moon light that have experience with these units, somewhere in my vicinity?? Central ohio??

Thank you so much for your repsonse... I'll print up and do my best to research or get some help in trying your suggestion... but that will take me some time... I'm not about to embark on elect stuff on my own... I don't want curly hair... ha ha...

Thanks again,
David

 

[jamawieb]

Ok, when you say full throttle, do you mean you have the throttle all the way out (the motor would be screaming)?? Another question, do you idle the unit when you start it up? Or do you have it start at 1800 RPM?

 

[icb818]

Full throttle, yes all the way out... honestly, the engine rev up isn't that bad, sure you couldn't converse around the unit, but I can barely hear it inside our facility.. anyway.. in the past, I've left the throttle setting at or about where it would register 60HZ... Now when I start it, I have it set at idle... now and every time I start it, I have idle set at idle...

 

[jamawieb]

I believe your problem is going to be in the voltage regulator. Letting the unit idle, you take a high chance of the voltage regulator frying because the regulator goes crazy because its made to regulate at 60 hertz.
If you do get it fixed, don't let it idle, just leave the throttle at 60 hertz and don't ever adjust again. The regulator is a small box, located above the generator head and it will have a plug running into it with a j11 beside the plug (on the voltage regulator box). I've seen the regulators go on ebay for $100. I don't believe you have a serious problem, it's finding someone to fix it, I don't have any contacts in your area.

 

[icb818]

oh my gosh... thank you so much... I think I can follow those instructions... I'll get some assistance and see if we can take a look see at that part and go from there... our weather is gonna be pretty treacherous the next couple of days... but, I'll get hopping on it here when I can bare the elements...
thank you so much... if you're ever in Ohio... East of Columbus, out on Buckeye Lake... stop in at Weldon's Ice Cream... anything on the menu is on US!!!!

Regards
David

 

[jamawieb]

Before you start, go to the tab at the top of this page and click on technical manuals. Then click on generator and electrical TMs; Then click on TM's for Generators; then scroll down to the bottom and you should see the TM for the MEP-006a. Scroll through them when you have time, it will show you pictures/diagrams and explain everything to you. Good Luck!

 

[DieselAddict]

I wish I was close enough to help. I wonder what it would cost to fly to Ohio.. Hm..

 

[icb818]

well from CLT it's bout $500.00, RDU it's $400 with a connection, GSO it's bout $500.00 If you're in North Carolina... If I get in a jam... is that a possibility?? I could take care of Airfare, Lodging, Meals...
Thx
David dpierce@weldons.com

 

[DieselAddict]

I'm between RDU and GSO so that is a possibility.

 

[icb818]

Well, I'd hate to drag ya away from your family... but I may be in an unusual need situation with this generator... And with our Unreliable Electric service, I'm told by the Linesmen that more outages are coming... that puts me in a precarious situation with needing refrigeration systems to keep my product. The 2012 'Derecho' we lost power in 90 deg weather for 6 days... Lost all of the inventory approx 20K retail value. The bigger issue though is our ammonia system. If there is no Electricity, there is no way for me to pump the ammonia back to the receiver and hold it.. otherwise, it will build pressure, stink and ultimately, burst the pressure relief valve which it did and sprayed all over my arm... Nothing to major as water and baking soda will quickly relieve the burn along with aloe...
I'll get back to you though... I'd like to give a shot a R/R from your suggestions.
I so appreciate your response,
Thank you so Much,
David

 

[DieselAddict]

Yours wouldn't be the longest trip to fix something. That award goes to the Chinese government. Most of Europe gets the second place prize.

 

[1800 Diesel]

I know some of this will be repeats of what you've already done but I'll throw out a few basic things and a few questions too. My experience is only with MEP-004A & 005A but I believe these sets general principles are similar to the 006A. You say you've operated the unit but you should confirm the throttle is set for a speed a little above 1800 for a no-load frequency of 61-62 hz. And as others have said, the start/run/stop switch must be held down for approximately 3 seconds or whenever you see the freq meter come up (understand you're not getting freq indication but if you're not getting the engine up to proper speed the freq will be lower than the low number on the meter)....

Once you verify engine speed is up (by tachometer preferably) try again to hold the start/run/stop switch to the start position to see if the field gets flashed & the set starts producing voltage. If you get voltage & freq while holding the start/run/stop switch to start position, then you probably have a bad speed switch. There should also be a reset button on the top of the speed switch you can push in case you haven't tried that.

Beyond that you could have a bad field flash relay, though I have actually found that in the MEP-006A TM. These are found in the MEP4 & 5 sets but in searching only one of the 006A TMs I didn't come across a field flash relay.

Are you seeing any fault lights come on while running the set?

Lastly, I have read (but not actually tried) on the SS forum that a 9v? battery can be used to flash the field. I believe the thread tells you which wires to connect the battery too. If you could do this and the set started producing voltage then at least you have the problem isolated.

Hope at least some of this helps. I have a 60KW parts set but it's a 400hz unit and I couldn't tell you what electrical parts are direct swap-outs for a 60hz set.

Hope you get it straightened out. Keep plugging away at it; the solution will come!

Kevin