MEP016D Fuel Pump

[ETN550]

Hi Everyone,

Does anyone have a 016D where the fuel pump actually works off of the engine flywheel charger and pumps fuel from the belly tank to the Yanmar tank?

I'm 0 for 3 with these. Add the fact that I'm 1 for 4 with operational flywheel chargers on the Pow'r gards makes me 1 in 7.

I see in the Pow'r Gard manual it requires a battery to be installed in order to test the charging system. This makes sense as there needs to be some kind of resistance and load in the system to make the charging circuit work and absorb the impulses of rectified AC.

The slave connection on the 016D is purely a cranking circuit and has no connection to the engine mounted charging system which drives the fuel pump.

I have thought about adding a large capacitor to the dc output instead of a battery.

Do the fuel pumps work with straight 24VDC applied to the pump input wire? I see two separate electronic components upstream of the actual fuel pump itself and have no idea what these are for.

Anyone care to share experiences or suggest how to go about making the belly tank and float system work correctly?

My goal is to be able to use the remote fuel source connection and draw off of a larger tank. So the pump and float switch system must be made to work somehow.

Thanks for any replies or insight!

Doug

 

[PeterD]

...
I have thought about adding a large capacitor to the dc output instead of a battery.
...

Uh, don't try that capacitor trick. Any capacitor large enough to do the task would create surges large enough to potentially damage the charging circuit.

 

[ETN550]

Uh, don't try that capacitor trick. Any capacitor large enough to do the task would create surges large enough to potentially damage the charging circuit.

Help me more here. Years ago it was common to buy a capacitor battery eliminator for motorcycles. I had an old Triumph that used a permanant magnet alternator, plate rectifier, and zener diode as the regulator. Very crude. The capacitor replaced the battery no issues.

I thought the system on the 016D is similar. therefore worth a try.

The 016D is trying to rectify and "possibly?" regulate a 36 - 48 vac output and send it to a 3 way float switch which has a ground?? and then through two mystical electronic devices no one here has identified and then to the fuel pump.

I'm going to take some pics of the devices so maybe someone can tell me how all of this is supposed to work with no battery for a regulator to reference.

Does anyone actually have a working auxillary pump on one of these units? I honestly believe that the as converted configuration is designed wrong.

Please, anyone, thanks,

Doug

 

[derf]

I haven't checked my 016D electric belly to tank fuel pump but I will next time I get it out. I'm pretty sure my 30D36R makes 12V with no battery but I'll have to verify that, too.

There should be a rectifier somewhere on the outside of the Yanmar, IIRC.

BTW, I see you on the TDI forum. I suppose great minds run in the same gutters.........???

 

[derf]

Mine is in the shed under its little cover but I found a pic. Is that not a rectifier in the pic?
It is all brown but I think the little block with wires coming out of it mounted to the block is a rectifier/regulator. I could be mistaken, though.


Edit, I added a closer pic. Do you not have one of those? It may be that the reg/rectifier was omitted and that is way they were DRMO'd?

 

[ETN550]

Yes, that is the rectifier, but not a regulator. I messed around all weekend and have some very interesting information that will be coming after I pull another late nighter and get my camera back in here.

As you will see the way the components are layed out is not ideal. I will explain. I now have 3 of 3 Ds running and pushing fuel from the belly to the engine tank. However, there are several legitimate concerns which I will elaborate on later. Maybe us D folk can come up with some improvements. I have ideas.

 

[derf]

Resurrect this one. Did you ever find out what was up with your 016D charging systems?

I have a theory:
Maybe they tried to use them to charge 24V batteries via the NATO plug and burned them up?

 

[ETN550]

Resurrect this one. Did you ever find out what was up with your 016D charging systems?

I have a theory:
Maybe they tried to use them to charge 24V batteries via the NATO plug and burned them up?

Hi Derf,

Been a while since I have had an 016D as their prices have gone up and the bases in my area have not offered many.

I might have taken this further on another post, I forget. But my problems were associated with the tank mounted float / relay assembly. I concluded that the raw unregulated feed to the float / relay was not good. Measurements in excess of 45vdc are being fed to a 24vdc device. The float assembly provides some sort of limp capability if one of the two floats fails. That explained why some tanks were maintained very low at the low float level and others at the high float level. It should cycle from high float to low float.

The NATO plug only goes to the start switch and starter. There is no other association between the NATO plug and any other components on the unit.

To anyone keeping these units and wanting a good functional generator that can drink from the belly tank or a remote source reliably I would recommend some changes to the design. A battery and a 24vdc regulator would be very helpful. Even if the battery was remote via a plug connection. Add a regulator and the NATO plug could be backfed. One nice feature of these sets is that since the three major electrical systems, starting, fuel pump control, and generator output are completely divorced from each other that means even if a battery and regulator were added they would not be needed to run in an emergency situation. I would make a switch to turn off the regulator when run without battery.

 

[cucv1833]

Hi Derf,

Been a while since I have had an 016D as their prices have gone up and the bases in my area have not offered many.

I might have taken this further on another post, I forget. But my problems were associated with the tank mounted float / relay assembly. I concluded that the raw unregulated feed to the float / relay was not good. Measurements in excess of 45vdc are being fed to a 24vdc device. The float assembly provides some sort of limp capability if one of the two floats fails.

Have you ever tried what you mention here in post #20?
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/auxiliary-equipment/92700-mep016d-new-owner-3.html
I may play with mine again when I get more time. Im close to getting it going. I'm wondering If the thermal breaker is my problem. I have 24v all the way through but when I connect the fuel pump lead the voltage drops back to zero.

I like the toggle switch and return line method you described in post #20

 

[ETN550]

Stupid question: What is post 20?

 

[cucv1833]

Stupid question: What is post 20?

Sorry,

It's post #20 your last post in page-2 on my thread
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/auxiliary-equipment/92700-mep016d-new-owner-3.html

You where talking about different methods of getting the pump working stock or making up a toggle switch system.

I would like to keep mine original but as a last ditch effort I may just use a 5gal outboard motor tank and priming bulb with inline fuel/water separator and call it a day.
No pump needed