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Mep831 help
- Thread starter Wh6czu
- Start date
- 2,126
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- Pepperell, Massachusetts
Have you downloaded the 9-6115-639-13&P TM?
Lot's of troubleshooting information in there.
You can download TM's from the "TM" button on the top of the S.S. forum webpage.
Lot's of troubleshooting information in there.
You can download TM's from the "TM" button on the top of the S.S. forum webpage.
Yes first thing I did, looks like I'm missi ng something, fuel pump on the right side isn't hooked to anything and no harness or empty plug anywhere near it.... there is a empty plug behind motor to the left P7 or P9 I think... and I found 2 wire behind the motor on the bottom that are cut
Attachments
- 2,126
- 3,492
- 113
- Location
- Pepperell, Massachusetts
I noticed a few things..
The recoil start rope and handle are missing. The rope may be inside the recoil starter.
You are missing the AUX fuel pump.
The two wires that should go the the Primary Fuel Pump and two for the the intake heaters normally are routed behind the engine. Might want to look closer back there.
What do the two cut wires go to? Can you read the wire numbers on the sides of them? What are they?
The recoil start rope and handle are missing. The rope may be inside the recoil starter.
You are missing the AUX fuel pump.
The two wires that should go the the Primary Fuel Pump and two for the the intake heaters normally are routed behind the engine. Might want to look closer back there.
What do the two cut wires go to? Can you read the wire numbers on the sides of them? What are they?
Yep your right rope is inside and the handle is down in the front corner,
I dont know what the cut wires go to dont see any numbers on them. I do have 2 wires going to the intake heater they are hooked up, .... I'm working on printing the TM. I have traced voltage from batteries to the start solenoid and that where I had no power.
- 2,126
- 3,492
- 113
- Location
- Pepperell, Massachusetts
The main switch is a MS27407-2
Found them in stock at Master Electronics for $32.25
Master Switch S1
Other distributors list them too
The switch isn't your average toggle switch. The contacts open and close in a unique way needed to clear the sets Fault logic until the set is started.
Found them in stock at Master Electronics for $32.25
Master Switch S1
Other distributors list them too
The switch isn't your average toggle switch. The contacts open and close in a unique way needed to clear the sets Fault logic until the set is started.
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Sweet is there a way to bypass the switch and get it started?
hey thanks and happy Thanksgiving
- 2,126
- 3,492
- 113
- Location
- Pepperell, Massachusetts
Looking at the TM I *think* doing the following will allow you to get the set started temporarily without an S1 switch.
** Do this at your own risk **
** Warning ** doing this will bypass the Fault Monitor and the set will NOT shut down due to ANY fault such as...
Low/No Oil Pressure, Overload, Over Voltage, Short Circuit, No Fuel, Engine High Temperature
1) Push the Emergency Off (EPO) switch IN
2) Connect all of the following wires together that use to go to S1
7A18, 15A18, 15B18, 5A16, 5B18, 7B18
3) Disconnect the P4 plug from the back of the A2 Fault Monitor
4) Pull the EPO switch OUT
You should now hear the primary fuel pump run as well as a cooling fan in the inverter when you pull the EPO switch out. If you do then go to step 5.
5) Jump the starter as you did earlier
Should it start you'll need to push the EPO switch IN to shut the engine down.
If the set does not shut down you'll have to manually move the throttle actuator arm back to the magnet so it sticks in place.
** Do this at your own risk **
** Do this at your own risk **
** Warning ** doing this will bypass the Fault Monitor and the set will NOT shut down due to ANY fault such as...
Low/No Oil Pressure, Overload, Over Voltage, Short Circuit, No Fuel, Engine High Temperature
1) Push the Emergency Off (EPO) switch IN
2) Connect all of the following wires together that use to go to S1
7A18, 15A18, 15B18, 5A16, 5B18, 7B18
3) Disconnect the P4 plug from the back of the A2 Fault Monitor
4) Pull the EPO switch OUT
You should now hear the primary fuel pump run as well as a cooling fan in the inverter when you pull the EPO switch out. If you do then go to step 5.
5) Jump the starter as you did earlier
Should it start you'll need to push the EPO switch IN to shut the engine down.
If the set does not shut down you'll have to manually move the throttle actuator arm back to the magnet so it sticks in place.
** Do this at your own risk **
Lol maybe I'll wait for the switch... thanks for the information..
Got the switch in and and it didn't change a thing, back to square one.
- 16,668
- 23,815
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
Do you have 24 volts at CB1?
LOL... Yes.... using field level troubleshooting TM 9-6115-639-1=&P... Page 0013-2 ... I made all the way down to E. 5 if voltage is not present , remove and replace START/RUN/STOP switch (WP 003
had no voltage so I have removed and replaced.... No Change and no voltageA good photo
OLOL... Yes.... using field level troubleshooting TM 9-6115-639-1=&P... Page 0013-2 ... I made all the way down to E. 5 if voltage is not present , remove and replace START/RUN/STOP switch (WP 003
Would happen to have clear photo of what wires go where on the Start Run Stop switch, I just found a wire on number 6 that should be on 5, that's way no power
Its looking like the wires on the Start Run Stop switch are wrong
- 2,126
- 3,492
- 113
- Location
- Pepperell, Massachusetts
There should not be any wires on S1-6.
Here is my S1. Ignore the two bright red wire lugs on my S1. They are not in a normal 831.
Here is my S1. Ignore the two bright red wire lugs on my S1. They are not in a normal 831.
- 2,126
- 3,492
- 113
- Location
- Pepperell, Massachusetts
Here is a diagram of which wires should be on S1 with their wire numbers and the destination of the wires in ( )
Thanks I'll let you know what happen. Kinda done for the day.
- 16,668
- 23,815
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
OK, don't get mad. I am not laughing at you. I have probably repeated 10,000 times here, ALWAYS check that the wires hooked to ANYTHING you are checking, are on right. Its one of the reasons I tell folks to never mark wires when they remove them. If someone else made a mistake, you just repeat it. Take the wires off, look at the wire diagram when you put them back on.Simple, and then you KNOW, its right.I have had this happen to me many times. By the time you get to banging your head on the gen set, because something is not working, its too late. You are not going to check anything other then if there is enough gasoline on hand to set the whole thing on fire.