glimmertwin01
New member
- 30
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Rochester NY
Im a new user. heres what I got and heres where I am at..any help would be sweet.
I picked up a used 1986 M1008 with a bad starter and flexplate. the truck has lots of dents and dings and some upstate NY rust. its been earl scheib-ed black.
I will post pics soon.
It appears to be basically stock. the only change i can see is someone put a push button starter switch in it. thsi was accomplished by running 12 ga. romex from the buss bar to a momentary contact switch in the lower dash and back out directly to the starter solenoid.
i need a better second battery but i can crank it with a commercial jumper box /charger.
so far this is what has been done....
I replaced the bad flex plate with a brand new one from NAPA and had the essentially "new" starter rebuilt. all it needed was a new shaft with the gear since the bad flexplate took the teeth off the **** thing.
so i got it all assembled. and cranked her up. she will not start without a snort of John Deere starting spray.
the starting procedure is as follows. (as given by the previous owner)
turn the ignition on, all the idiot lights (oil, Gen1 water in fuel (which goes out immediately) and the wait light which goes out after approx 20-30 seconds.) come on cept GEN2 light, and the temp light in the fuel gauge. that light will light up if you switch the key to the start position, (accompanied by some clicks (relays) within the dash.)
engage the starter with the push button...engine cranks but will not start unless you give her a snort of starting fluid.
she will run with very little smoke and runs smooth, if you shut off the truck it will restart immediately but will not start if it sets 5 min. (engine warm not hot) and the "WAIT" light will not light up.
I have NOT been able to test for voltage at the glow plugs to see if the circuit is good and i have bad GP's.
I have read many posts on here about such issues.
the refire when warm issue is my secondary concern.
the first thing I would like to accomplish is to get her to start without opening the hood.
I should note the column might need replacement due to a bad dimmer switch. and I can procure one from a civilian 1990 C3500 6.2 truck.
my first question would be. when they bypassed the ignition switch to start did it take out part of the normal glow plug system operation (since the temp idiot light lights up and i hear relays clicking)
if the timer / glow plug card is OK ill keep it in the system. if its junk I would like to put a manual override switch in by bypassing the card.
I dont mind pushing a momentary switch for the required time to sufficiently warm the combustion chamber for proper ignition.
I would like to remove the OIL idiot light and replace it with a proper "wet gauge" ( donated from one of my older mid 70's GM trucks..
I also noted that when the truck is operating the electrical system gauge located in the dash (where an AC went would be) does not seem to work.
Basically I am posting to you folks to offer your experience to me to get this old Girl operating as it should.
thanks....
Dan
I picked up a used 1986 M1008 with a bad starter and flexplate. the truck has lots of dents and dings and some upstate NY rust. its been earl scheib-ed black.
I will post pics soon.
It appears to be basically stock. the only change i can see is someone put a push button starter switch in it. thsi was accomplished by running 12 ga. romex from the buss bar to a momentary contact switch in the lower dash and back out directly to the starter solenoid.
i need a better second battery but i can crank it with a commercial jumper box /charger.
so far this is what has been done....
I replaced the bad flex plate with a brand new one from NAPA and had the essentially "new" starter rebuilt. all it needed was a new shaft with the gear since the bad flexplate took the teeth off the **** thing.
so i got it all assembled. and cranked her up. she will not start without a snort of John Deere starting spray.
the starting procedure is as follows. (as given by the previous owner)
turn the ignition on, all the idiot lights (oil, Gen1 water in fuel (which goes out immediately) and the wait light which goes out after approx 20-30 seconds.) come on cept GEN2 light, and the temp light in the fuel gauge. that light will light up if you switch the key to the start position, (accompanied by some clicks (relays) within the dash.)
engage the starter with the push button...engine cranks but will not start unless you give her a snort of starting fluid.
she will run with very little smoke and runs smooth, if you shut off the truck it will restart immediately but will not start if it sets 5 min. (engine warm not hot) and the "WAIT" light will not light up.
I have NOT been able to test for voltage at the glow plugs to see if the circuit is good and i have bad GP's.
I have read many posts on here about such issues.
the refire when warm issue is my secondary concern.
the first thing I would like to accomplish is to get her to start without opening the hood.
I should note the column might need replacement due to a bad dimmer switch. and I can procure one from a civilian 1990 C3500 6.2 truck.
my first question would be. when they bypassed the ignition switch to start did it take out part of the normal glow plug system operation (since the temp idiot light lights up and i hear relays clicking)
if the timer / glow plug card is OK ill keep it in the system. if its junk I would like to put a manual override switch in by bypassing the card.
I dont mind pushing a momentary switch for the required time to sufficiently warm the combustion chamber for proper ignition.
I would like to remove the OIL idiot light and replace it with a proper "wet gauge" ( donated from one of my older mid 70's GM trucks..
I also noted that when the truck is operating the electrical system gauge located in the dash (where an AC went would be) does not seem to work.
Basically I am posting to you folks to offer your experience to me to get this old Girl operating as it should.
thanks....
Dan