richingalveston
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The 4l80e bolts right in with no problems, I installed it like the tm says for the th400. I put the torgue converter on the trans, bolted in the trans then bolted the torque converter to the flywheel. Of course thats the easy part.
The 4l80e core does not come with the lower cover (dust cover)on the torque converter. it is a dealer part $45 but the cover for the 6.5 and 7.4 have been discontinued so you have to buy the one for the 5.7 which needs a little grinding on at the starter and around the crank. Not difficult to do, the new cover is thin sheetmetal and not aluminum cast. The new cover does not have the bolt location on the bottom like the th400 so you have to find a different way to tie down the lines at the trans. I made a bracket that bolts to the trans and has couplers on it so I can tie the two different size coolant lines togather.
Yes, the coolant lines are not the same size nor do they have the same connector. The 4l80e has 3/8 pop in line fittings where the th400 has 5/16 flare. I have welded couplers to the bracket and the pop in lines fit one side with a compresion fitting and the flares fittings screw to the outher side.
The dip stick tube has to be bent some and is difficult to install without two people, but the th400 dipstick works however the bracket that bolts to the trans to keep it steady does not reach the bolt hole so i have it loose at this time and due to close clearance it does not move much (hopefully it will be ok). I plan to make an extension bracket to fix this issue
I also had to make an add on bracket where the shifter is, to move the pivet hole of the shifter so that it does not bind, you also have to extend the shift rod that comes from the steering column, I cut it sliped each end into a pipe the size of the rod and welded it to make it about 3 inches longer. the lower shifter piece also has to be bent a little and worked so that when you shift to low, the rod and lower shifter piece do not hit the exhaust pipe. The 4l80e does not need the vacume line, I currently just pluged it and may remove it later. The 4l80e does not need the orange kick down wire either. I have just tie rapped it out of the way for now until I decide to remove it.
you also have to move the crossmember back because the 4l80e is about 1.5 inches longer than the th400 also the foot of the spacer between the 4l80e and the transfer case is 4 inches shorter than the th400 spacer. I moved the front bolt of the cross member to the back hole and drilled another hole for the back. I then made a custom bracket that goes between the crossmember and the foot of the trans. my bracket was a little short and I had to install some washers and spacers because the front drive shaft was hitting the cross member.
The transfer case bolts directly to the 4l80e 4x4 tail housing, no additional spacers are needed. The only thing that needs to be done to the transfer case is to extend the shift rod two inches. I did this the same as the column shift rod buy cutting it and putting a piece of pipe in the middle. you need the threads at the end so the rod must be extended in the middle.
I installed a 4 inch ORD lift with zero rates front and back for a total of 5 inches of lift. I also have a d60 front with e-locker and a 14 bolt rear. The axle change may have added another half inch. With the zero rates, I moved the front axle forward and inch and the back axle back an inch. The U joints are not the same on the rear of 1009 and 1008 (my parts truck is a 100
. I am having the 1008 rear axle cut down to fit the 1009 and I have to have the front axle extended 3.5 inches.
I bought the TCI fast TCU controler it did the same things as the other controlers and it was cheaper. I like the digital display better than the one that has dials only. The TCI controler lets you input the axle ratio and the tire size so that it can display your actual speed instead of guessing with the speedometer.
I have purchased a dsl-1 module from dakota digital to convert the alternator tach post signal to a digital tach signal for the TCI Controler. It should be here on wednesday.
I also purchased a BWD EC3003 throttle possition sensor to work with the controler. It is an electonic TPS that replaces the vacume TPS that is currently on the 6.2. Apparently they had a 6.2 in 1991 that used this electronic TPS instead of the Vacuum TPS. It was expensive at $115 (oriely auto parts). I thought I got ripped off until I got home and checked fleebay and they listed for $145.
I installed the TPS and controler today to find my Contoler to be no good. I have to call Monday to figure out what needs to be done to fix it. I was able to drive the truck today in low to find out my rear axle u-joint is binding at the t-case so I am going to have to get rid of the slip yoke.
My current review of the FAST TCI transmission control unit is not good. Maybe Monday my opinion will change. My biggest problem is the box appears to be no good, and the second problem is the handheld is poorly made. The box is flimsy and the display has some glue or other crap on the inside that blocks part of the screen. The contoler is curently in flash mode and will not reset. Flash mode is used when loading the program into the box.
My rear driveshaft is going to need a fix. I was only going to use the 208 t-case for a few months until I could get my 205 rebuilt with new input shaft and a planetary doubler. But the t-case with slip yoke and cut down driveshaft will not work in a 1009 with 5 inch lift. With no lift it would not be a problem. The rear driveshaft will have to have a CV joint like the front driveshaft to work on the 1009. A 1008 would not have a problem due to the longer drive train.
What I have left is to fix the controler, get the DSL-1 tach module installed when it gets here and fix the rear driveshaft/t-case issue. I am probably going to have to speed up the 205 build instead of putting more money into the 208 that I plan to get rid of in a few months. May have to put off the tires and wheels for a few months and live with the stock 1008 tires until my wallet recovers from the 205 build.
enjoy the pics and feel free to ask questions.
The 4l80e core does not come with the lower cover (dust cover)on the torque converter. it is a dealer part $45 but the cover for the 6.5 and 7.4 have been discontinued so you have to buy the one for the 5.7 which needs a little grinding on at the starter and around the crank. Not difficult to do, the new cover is thin sheetmetal and not aluminum cast. The new cover does not have the bolt location on the bottom like the th400 so you have to find a different way to tie down the lines at the trans. I made a bracket that bolts to the trans and has couplers on it so I can tie the two different size coolant lines togather.
Yes, the coolant lines are not the same size nor do they have the same connector. The 4l80e has 3/8 pop in line fittings where the th400 has 5/16 flare. I have welded couplers to the bracket and the pop in lines fit one side with a compresion fitting and the flares fittings screw to the outher side.
The dip stick tube has to be bent some and is difficult to install without two people, but the th400 dipstick works however the bracket that bolts to the trans to keep it steady does not reach the bolt hole so i have it loose at this time and due to close clearance it does not move much (hopefully it will be ok). I plan to make an extension bracket to fix this issue
I also had to make an add on bracket where the shifter is, to move the pivet hole of the shifter so that it does not bind, you also have to extend the shift rod that comes from the steering column, I cut it sliped each end into a pipe the size of the rod and welded it to make it about 3 inches longer. the lower shifter piece also has to be bent a little and worked so that when you shift to low, the rod and lower shifter piece do not hit the exhaust pipe. The 4l80e does not need the vacume line, I currently just pluged it and may remove it later. The 4l80e does not need the orange kick down wire either. I have just tie rapped it out of the way for now until I decide to remove it.
you also have to move the crossmember back because the 4l80e is about 1.5 inches longer than the th400 also the foot of the spacer between the 4l80e and the transfer case is 4 inches shorter than the th400 spacer. I moved the front bolt of the cross member to the back hole and drilled another hole for the back. I then made a custom bracket that goes between the crossmember and the foot of the trans. my bracket was a little short and I had to install some washers and spacers because the front drive shaft was hitting the cross member.
The transfer case bolts directly to the 4l80e 4x4 tail housing, no additional spacers are needed. The only thing that needs to be done to the transfer case is to extend the shift rod two inches. I did this the same as the column shift rod buy cutting it and putting a piece of pipe in the middle. you need the threads at the end so the rod must be extended in the middle.
I installed a 4 inch ORD lift with zero rates front and back for a total of 5 inches of lift. I also have a d60 front with e-locker and a 14 bolt rear. The axle change may have added another half inch. With the zero rates, I moved the front axle forward and inch and the back axle back an inch. The U joints are not the same on the rear of 1009 and 1008 (my parts truck is a 100
![Cool 8) 8)](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_cool.gif)
I bought the TCI fast TCU controler it did the same things as the other controlers and it was cheaper. I like the digital display better than the one that has dials only. The TCI controler lets you input the axle ratio and the tire size so that it can display your actual speed instead of guessing with the speedometer.
I have purchased a dsl-1 module from dakota digital to convert the alternator tach post signal to a digital tach signal for the TCI Controler. It should be here on wednesday.
I also purchased a BWD EC3003 throttle possition sensor to work with the controler. It is an electonic TPS that replaces the vacume TPS that is currently on the 6.2. Apparently they had a 6.2 in 1991 that used this electronic TPS instead of the Vacuum TPS. It was expensive at $115 (oriely auto parts). I thought I got ripped off until I got home and checked fleebay and they listed for $145.
I installed the TPS and controler today to find my Contoler to be no good. I have to call Monday to figure out what needs to be done to fix it. I was able to drive the truck today in low to find out my rear axle u-joint is binding at the t-case so I am going to have to get rid of the slip yoke.
My current review of the FAST TCI transmission control unit is not good. Maybe Monday my opinion will change. My biggest problem is the box appears to be no good, and the second problem is the handheld is poorly made. The box is flimsy and the display has some glue or other crap on the inside that blocks part of the screen. The contoler is curently in flash mode and will not reset. Flash mode is used when loading the program into the box.
My rear driveshaft is going to need a fix. I was only going to use the 208 t-case for a few months until I could get my 205 rebuilt with new input shaft and a planetary doubler. But the t-case with slip yoke and cut down driveshaft will not work in a 1009 with 5 inch lift. With no lift it would not be a problem. The rear driveshaft will have to have a CV joint like the front driveshaft to work on the 1009. A 1008 would not have a problem due to the longer drive train.
What I have left is to fix the controler, get the DSL-1 tach module installed when it gets here and fix the rear driveshaft/t-case issue. I am probably going to have to speed up the 205 build instead of putting more money into the 208 that I plan to get rid of in a few months. May have to put off the tires and wheels for a few months and live with the stock 1008 tires until my wallet recovers from the 205 build.
enjoy the pics and feel free to ask questions.
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