My M1009 starts great with only 4 working glow plugs?

[linx310]

Ever since I got my M1009 the few times I have ran it, it smokes really bad on start up and runs a little rough until it warms up. The smoke is white and smells like unburnt diesel. I am not losing any coolant so its not a head gasket.

I got a chance today to check the glow plugs with DMM. I pulled the spade plug off of each one and put one probe on the threaded part of the plug and one on the spade.

Here are my results

Driver side front to back
1 - 1.3 ohms
2 - NO READING (infinite resistance?)
3 - NO READING (infinite resistance?)
4 - NO READING (infinite resistance?)

Passenger side front to back
5 - 1.3 ohms
6 - NO READING (infinite resistance?)
7 - 1.3 ohms
8 - 1.3 ohms

Now the driver side exhaust has always had lots more smoke then the passenger side come out until it warms up.

The strange thing is, my truck starts on the first crank with ease. I thought with that many glow plugs out it would be a lot more difficult.

Of course I could have tested them wrong and they may be ok.

I am going to order a new set any way and a tool to remove them. I am also gonna check the gp resistors and stuff and see if they are operating properly before i put the new set in.

 

[Warthog]

Yes the 6.2L will start with non-working glow plugs. It just takes a little longer. Sounds like the passenger side was waking up first and draging the driver side along for the ride.

You tested the plugs correctly.

Before you install the new plugs, follow the GP test procedure in the TM 9-2320-289-20 troubleshooting section. It may save the new plugs.

And clean and tighten the wire connectors. They get dirty and become loose with age.

 

[markg]

Ever since I got my M1009 the few times I have ran it, it smokes really bad on start up and runs a little rough until it warms up. The smoke is white and smells like unburnt diesel. I am not losing any coolant so its not a head gasket.

I got a chance today to check the glow plugs with DMM. I pulled the spade plug off of each one and put one probe on the threaded part of the plug and one on the spade.

Here are my results

Driver side front to back
1 - 1.3 ohms
2 - NO READING (infinite resistance?)
3 - NO READING (infinite resistance?)
4 - NO READING (infinite resistance?)

Passenger side front to back
5 - 1.3 ohms
6 - NO READING (infinite resistance?)
7 - 1.3 ohms
8 - 1.3 ohms

Now the driver side exhaust has always had lots more smoke then the passenger side come out until it warms up.

The strange thing is, my truck starts on the first crank with ease. I thought with that many glow plugs out it would be a lot more difficult.

Of course I could have tested them wrong and they may be ok.

I am going to order a new set any way and a tool to remove them. I am also gonna truck the gp resistors and stuff and see if they are operating properly before i put the new set in.

your in texas, that helps. its 45f here in austin today, cold to us but you could be in fargo. i have had 6 plugs bad and still able to start my truck when its 50's or so outside. runs rough but the other cylinders pick up quick.

 

[1stSarge]

The manual say they are supposed to be 1-3 ohms. Replace the set, and I think you will see your problem vanish. Starting is only the beginning for the glow plugs, they go through the “afterglow” cycle after the engine is running for more complete combustion among other things.

 

[linx310]

Yea I am gonna just replace them all. The AC Delco 60Gs are supposed to be good plugs, I think I will go with them.

 

[67_C-30]

Yea I am gonna just replace them all. The AC Delco 60Gs are supposed to be good plugs, I think I will go with them.

The 60G's are great plugs, but expect to either grind the terminals down just a little to fit the plugs on the harness, or change out the plugs on the harness. Either way is no big deal. I usually take a little off the terminal on the GP with a bench grinder. The Bosch Duraterms fit with no mods, and they are as good as the 60G's. They are the only two GP's I'll use in 6.2's.

 

[K9Vic]

I just replaced glow plugs on a friends M1008 and had 4 swollen plugs and only 2 of them were good. He was not able to start his truck, but it has been rather cold here in Fort Worth lately.

I bought the GP removal tool and used that to remove the swollen plugs, but one of them was so bad it broke removing it. So I had to remove the injector and extract it with a needle nose pliers. I was lucky it was the front GP on the passenger side, so I was able to see it and remove it. The tool is easy to use, just make sure when you put it on the GP does not tread back into the block when you spin on the outer piece.

 

[Sasquatch]

When I just got my M1008 it would taking a lot of cranking and at least two cycles to start, Being in AK and it being my first diesel, I thought it was normal. Then I found it would only start if the block heater was plugged in.

Changed out the glow plugs, all 8 were bad but it was still starting at 5 degrees as long as the block heater was plugged in for a few hours, I was amazed.

Another indicator that your glow plugs are going bad is that you will hear more clicking from the relays while the wait light is on, if they start to burn out and the voltage increases the module will try to cycle them on and off to limit them. Thanks to whoever wrote the post I picked that up from.

 

[linx310]

Now before I swap out these glow plugs I am considering doing a mod.

I keep reading about converting the glow plug resistor module to 12 volts so if one glow plug burns out it does not start a cascade effect.

Doing a search I came up with references to two mods:

1. Run 12 volts to the GP resistor module.
2. Skip the entire system with a bush button.

I do not want to install a bush button, so would the first mod work ok? Are there any negative effects?

 

[K9Vic]

If you supply 12v to the glow plugs resistor block then you will only have 6v at the glow plugs and you truck will hardly start when it is cold. You bypass the resistor block by connecting 12v to the glow plug relay next to the wiper motor directly to the 12v side of the front or rear battery. It will then only supply 12v to the glow plugs even if one or more go bad. You do not need a manual switch as long as your control card is working, but you can add one just in case.

 

[tbearatkin]

Now before I swap out these glow plugs I am considering doing a mod.

I keep reading about converting the glow plug resistor module to 12 volts so if one glow plug burns out it does not start a cascade effect.

Doing a search I came up with references to two mods:

1. Run 12 volts to the GP resistor module.
2. Skip the entire system with a bush button.

I do not want to install a bush button, so would the first mod work ok? Are there any negative effects?

The glow plug resistor takes 24V and changes it to 12V. If it goes bad you now have 24V going to your relay and glow plugs. Mine went bad (smoked it) for some reason prob age. I bypassed my resistor this way. There are other spots to get 12 volts from I chose this because it looked the easiest and looked like I would not overload some other circuit.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/56682-what-why-did-smoke-2.html

 

[Sasquatch]

There is a 12v terminal directly above the glow plug relay. I decided to use that for my glowplugs source because it is close and it was run with the same gauge wire as the wire going to the resistor so I thought it should support the load, there is a fusible link to protect the circuit also, but check your wires because they could be different. Several people seem to use that terminal instead of running a new wire but if you are concerned wiring straight to the battery would be safest.

Using the terminal you can just undo the 24v feed, take out the resistor, crimp a bigger ring terminal on the wire that went from the resistor to the glowplug relay and pop it on the terminal, done.

Searches for resistor bypass will bring up most of the threads on it.

 

[mistaken1]

Now before I swap out these glow plugs I am considering doing a mod.

I keep reading about converting the glow plug resistor module to 12 volts so if one glow plug burns out it does not start a cascade effect.

Doing a search I came up with references to two mods:

1. Run 12 volts to the GP resistor module.
2. Skip the entire system with a bush button.

I do not want to install a bush button, so would the first mod work ok? Are there any negative effects?

Not unless you plan on lots of 24V slave starting.

There are several ways to do the 12V conversion. This is what I did:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/62408-story-my-cucv-12v-glow-plug-conversion.html#post750217

 

[REDWOLF]

Hey there 67_C-30 is there a part number for the bosch duraterms glow plugs?