The new ignition switch- the one that actually is located under the dash on top of the steering column, has an "accessory" stop; but I can't rotate my key rearward to it. Do M1009s not have this ability. I have a new scanner and CB that I'd like to run in accessory.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
My new ignition switch has an accessory stop but...
- Thread starter edpdx
- Start date
dependable
Well-known member
- 1,720
- 188
- 63
- Location
- Tisbury, Massachusetts
Ignition switch is the same as most Chevys of that era. There is a slide adjustment on the steering column, the switch has elongated holes. I Would take power off fuse box. there are some places you can plug in spade fittings and I believe at least one is controlled by ignition switch. Add an inline fuse and your good to go.
Last edited:
cpf240
Active member
- 1,479
- 5
- 38
- Location
- Free in Northern Idaho
Did you try pushing the switch "in" and then turn counter-clockwise? That is the way it works on mine, though I don't have anything powered by it at this time.
Yep, that's what I though... but the only direction the key switch will turn is ahead toward "RUN" and "START". I cannot turn it rearward toward the "ACC" like I can on my other Chevys.
Is there a way to get this working? I don't want to hard wire this to the fuse box and risk a battery drain if I forget to shut the power off on the CB or Scanner; but I can't listen to either when the diesel is making so much noise.
Is there a way to get this working? I don't want to hard wire this to the fuse box and risk a battery drain if I forget to shut the power off on the CB or Scanner; but I can't listen to either when the diesel is making so much noise.
sierrajcharlie
New member
- 144
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Farmersburg, Iowa
There are 12 volt areas in the fuse panel that you can put a spade terminal in that are controlled by the switch and some that are always on. That's how I've got my cd player (need both switched and always on to run) and cb hooked up. They are on the left side of the fuse panel, check the ports first with a voltmeter because there are 24 volt spots also! Don't ask how I know. 
Let's just say 12 volt test lights hate them but that was better than toasting my cd player. I also covered up the 24 volt spots with black tape so I didn't have to check them again later.
Let's just say 12 volt test lights hate them but that was better than toasting my cd player. I also covered up the 24 volt spots with black tape so I didn't have to check them again later.
Last edited:
mistaken1
New member
- 1,467
- 6
- 0
- Location
- Kansas City, KS
A key switch in the run position without the engine running can damage the glow plugs in stock systems or cause the glow plugs to drain the battery in 12V fed systems (assuming the engine is cold and controller card is functioning properly).
If your glow plug controller was eliminated from the system then a key in the run position will not cause the glow plugs to actuate.
If your glow plug controller was eliminated from the system then a key in the run position will not cause the glow plugs to actuate.
Well I figured I could turn the key to the "ON" position and listen to the radio...if I want to burn up the Glow Plugs.
I know that the ACC and IGN positions on the fusebox will be useful if the ACC on the key switch can be attained.
What I don't know is why the he¢k the key won't turn to this position
I know that the ACC and IGN positions on the fusebox will be useful if the ACC on the key switch can be attained.
What I don't know is why the he¢k the key won't turn to this position
I pulled the key cylinder today. It seems to be original from someone's CUCV- I bought it from a guy here a while back- mine was all crusty. It has the CUCV key code stamped on it. Oddly enough, there is a roll pin sticking out of it where the cylinder tab is supposed to by-pass on its way to the ignition setting. The new Echlin part I got from NAPA today has a squared head on the key (J type) and a different code, of course, but it does turn to ACC in or out of the column. I will try to pull the roll pin out to see if it was a mod for the Army to keep the operator from going to ACC mode.
I know some members have said that they have a CUCV that has ACC position; but I don't know if they are running the MIL SPEC "B" key or not. They may well have aftermarket ignition cylinders with non-original keys.
I know some members have said that they have a CUCV that has ACC position; but I don't know if they are running the MIL SPEC "B" key or not. They may well have aftermarket ignition cylinders with non-original keys.
cpf240
Active member
- 1,479
- 5
- 38
- Location
- Free in Northern Idaho
Mine does turn backwards to the ACC position, don't know if there are active circuits when it is in that position though. I have new locks for it, but it is still on the original locks with the original military key.I know some members have said that they have a CUCV that has ACC position; but I don't know if they are running the MIL SPEC "B" key or not. They may well have aftermarket ignition cylinders with non-original keys.
So I have the new Key Cylinder in the ignition switch. The next step was to find which terminal in the fuse block would go HOT when the key was turned to "ACC". I tested all probable sites on the fuse block with the key turned to "ACC":
- All points 1-4 on the picture did not produce power per the multimeter when the key was turned to "ACC"
dstang97
Well-known member
- 1,859
- 30
- 48
- Location
- Clover, SC
Why not hook up a constant with a switch. It will do the same exact thing. Btw acc does not work because that's how it is wired.
dstang97, What kind of switch? Like a toggle- something that you have to turn ON/OFF manually/ Because this is the same as remembering to turn the radio OFF, no?
Why, well I guess I know why the "ACC" switch position would not be wired to work; but how is it different? I replaced the column ignition switch- the one that fits atop the column under the dash with a civvy model- how would the system need to be mod'ed to make "ACC" work?
Why, well I guess I know why the "ACC" switch position would not be wired to work; but how is it different? I replaced the column ignition switch- the one that fits atop the column under the dash with a civvy model- how would the system need to be mod'ed to make "ACC" work?
Its not in the switch, but in the way the fuse box is wired.
From looking at the wiring diagrams, E-4
with the key in the ACC position, the only active fuse is the WIPER.
If so you can get a piggy back fuse holder and use that fuse.
I don't have a truck handy to test this.
Looking at the diagram, the four long bars are hot at all times. When you turn the key it moves four contacts inside the switch.
At each posistion certain contacts are closed. The only contact that is closed in the ACC position feeds wire 3 BRN-4, which is the wipers
From looking at the wiring diagrams, E-4
with the key in the ACC position, the only active fuse is the WIPER.
If so you can get a piggy back fuse holder and use that fuse.
I don't have a truck handy to test this.
Looking at the diagram, the four long bars are hot at all times. When you turn the key it moves four contacts inside the switch.
At each posistion certain contacts are closed. The only contact that is closed in the ACC position feeds wire 3 BRN-4, which is the wipers
Attachments
Last edited:
Abbylind
Member
- 284
- 14
- 18
- Location
- Palm Harbor FL & NM
If you can find which contact either has 12 volts or a ground when the key is switched to assy You could tie in a relay with 12 volts (battery) to your accessories
jimm1009
Well-known member
- 1,165
- 71
- 48
- Location
- Louisville, KY
You have to push the key switch in towards the column to turn to accessory but you really don't need that position.
There is a constant hot in the fuse box that you can hook the radio to and then you can turn it on and off without even needing a key.
What I would do is check the rigging of the switch onthe top of the lwer end of the sterring column.
Start by turning the ky to the off position and rmove the key.
Slide the switch uptowards the steering wheel and then back down towards the floorboard.
There is some adjustment there and that may be all that is wrong if I am understanding your problem correctly.
If the ignition cylinder has been changed or tampered with then the clocking could be off of the one-sided flat gear in the column.
I suspect that if it was o.k. before the electric ignition switch was replaced then the glitch is int he lwer end only.
On a side note, if you want to, you can use your new ignition cylinder and if the new door locks and have then all keyed to the B key or more modern equivelent is the K key. If you find a new door set take the key and slide it into your new switch. If it slides in you can have a locksmith rekey the cylinder so that it matches the new door locks and then you have a set of locks that the military key won't fit anymore and also still only need one key.
I went one step further and when I put my electric tailgate had that cylinder with new key and had the doors and iginition keyed to match it.
It was a K series blank and still works great 17 years later.
jimm1009
There is a constant hot in the fuse box that you can hook the radio to and then you can turn it on and off without even needing a key.
What I would do is check the rigging of the switch onthe top of the lwer end of the sterring column.
Start by turning the ky to the off position and rmove the key.
Slide the switch uptowards the steering wheel and then back down towards the floorboard.
There is some adjustment there and that may be all that is wrong if I am understanding your problem correctly.
If the ignition cylinder has been changed or tampered with then the clocking could be off of the one-sided flat gear in the column.
I suspect that if it was o.k. before the electric ignition switch was replaced then the glitch is int he lwer end only.
On a side note, if you want to, you can use your new ignition cylinder and if the new door locks and have then all keyed to the B key or more modern equivelent is the K key. If you find a new door set take the key and slide it into your new switch. If it slides in you can have a locksmith rekey the cylinder so that it matches the new door locks and then you have a set of locks that the military key won't fit anymore and also still only need one key.
I went one step further and when I put my electric tailgate had that cylinder with new key and had the doors and iginition keyed to match it.
It was a K series blank and still works great 17 years later.
jimm1009
Thanks gents,
Warthog you are The Man. I have been wiring things under dashboards since I was 14 or 15, many many... many moons ago. I hate to feel so dense. But when you recommend that I hook up the piggyback fuse holder to the WIPER Fuse it was a revelation. If I ever knew that there was such a device, I must have forgotten it. Now I want to hook all kinds of $4;+ up!
I ran down to AZ and picked up BP-HHA-RP ATC FUSE TAP by Cooper Bussman $5.99.
This is the way to hook up a radio, CB, Scanner, Radar Detector, et al.
NOTE: This part will allow only 10 AMPS MAX in the "Radio" slot of the FUSE TAP. My radio already had a 7.5 amp fuse inline so I installed the 10 AMP in the figuring that the 7.5 would blow first anyway.
I only wish there were a way to add another of these for the scanner and CB. I know, I know... never satisfied.
This info should be a sticky or something.
Warthog you are The Man. I have been wiring things under dashboards since I was 14 or 15, many many... many moons ago. I hate to feel so dense. But when you recommend that I hook up the piggyback fuse holder to the WIPER Fuse it was a revelation. If I ever knew that there was such a device, I must have forgotten it. Now I want to hook all kinds of $4;+ up!
I ran down to AZ and picked up BP-HHA-RP ATC FUSE TAP by Cooper Bussman $5.99.
This is the way to hook up a radio, CB, Scanner, Radar Detector, et al.
NOTE: This part will allow only 10 AMPS MAX in the "Radio" slot of the FUSE TAP. My radio already had a 7.5 amp fuse inline so I installed the 10 AMP in the figuring that the 7.5 would blow first anyway.
I only wish there were a way to add another of these for the scanner and CB. I know, I know... never satisfied.
This info should be a sticky or something.
Last edited:
cpf240
Active member
- 1,479
- 5
- 38
- Location
- Free in Northern Idaho
What about combining the fuse tap with an accessory relay? Power the accessory relay from the fuse tap in the wiper fuse slot. Power an accessory fuse block from the accessory relay. Pull the switched feed of the accessory relay from the 12v buss under the hood, or directly from the front battery. Then you can have all the slots you want, and not worry about overloading the wiper slot of the stock fuse block.
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d136.html
I'm doing this on my laptop so the drawing isn't great, but you'll get the idea.
Using the Power from the Wiper Piggyback fuse, when the key is in ACC it will energize a relay.
Taking 12v power from the battery or the 12v Terminal block, the relay when energized will feed an expansion fusebox.
It can be mounted under the dash and feed any number of circuits. CB, Cell phone, etc. You wouldn't want to run any spot lights though.
Attachments
Last edited: