New batt. cables

[rsh4364]

Getting ready to replace/ upgrade batt.cables and power feed to 12volt power port and glowplug solenoid.Will also be bypassing 24/12 resistor.I have optima redtops,Ruffstuff batt box.gonna run 1/0 gauge batt.and starter cables and would like to run 4 ga.over to 12v pwr.port and GP solenoid.Would it be ok to use 10ga fusible links on the 4 ga. to pwr.port and glowplug solenoid? I can only find 8ga.fusible link in 25 foot spools and don't need that much! Another option is 1/0 gauge to a pwr. port which reduces down to 8 gauge then 12ga fusible link to 12v pwr port and GP solenoid.

 

[rsh4364]

This is my DD as my other two vehicles have died,really need some input.

 

[tim292stro]

Since you're upgrading, why not put in ANL fuses? In my Toyota pickup, I did a 180 Amp alternator, so I had to uprate the electrical in general. I did a 200AMP ANL within 18" of the alternator, ran both a positive and negative 1/0 direct to the battery through one more 80 Amp ANL (replaced he old fusible link), branched off of that with a 150 mp ANL to a contactor that parallels a second Optima battery when the engine is running, with one last 150 Amp ANL at the rear battery. This way the large gauge wire was protected from any source Main battery, secondary battery, or alternator. sometimes alternators have a diode fail shorted, so you need to protect back feed into the alternator to keep it from catching fire.

If you use fuses instead of fusible links, you can get closer to the design rating of the load, and oversize the wire a bit to ensure it won't be the weak link. ANL fuses are really common and cheap, so in a pinch you won't be making phone calls begging for parts at late hours. This was a key point in my decision, since my Toyota is currently my DD until I finish my CUCV clone.

Remember any time you reduce the size of a wire it needs a fuse sized to protect the smaller downstream wire.

 

[tim292stro]

I just read the part about bypassing the 12/24 resistor - is your truck already 12V only? If not, you will burn out your 14V glow plugs on the first power-on. If you're having trouble with the glow plug system, I'd suggest temporarily bypassing the controller with a momentary switch. The ballast resistor that the glow plug system is tied to is only correct if all glow plugs are working correctly, if one blows, the other glow plugs will see a higher and higher voltage as the rest of them start to fail, until the last one sees nearly 20Volts.

If you're already all 12V, then run with it.

 

[rsh4364]

Im very electrically challenged,so will probably stick with fusable links..My 1009 is still dual alt.24/12 volt.Im going to run 12v right to gp solenoid to eliminate 24v/12v resistor and cascade failure of glowplugs.

 

[tim292stro]

I think AC Delco has/had a 13G glow plug that takes 24V, no idea on the quality though. I had a 7.4L V8 in the fake-CUCV truck I'm building, and it's getting a Cummins 6BT - so grid heater instead of glow plugs. Someone else should be able to chime in f they have used them before.

The starter, and glow plugs are going to be your highest draw components during a cold start, so keeping them 24Volt would be to your benefit. It also makes the slave plug retain its effectiveness.

 

[tim292stro]

So just doing a quick Google search shows threads where the 24V 13G glow plugs will swell before failing, making them a pain to remove. All recommendations seem to point towards AC-Delco 60G glow plugs since they self regulate, but these are 12 volt only. This means you need the ballast resistor still or another method to get to 12-14V regulated voltage. The ballast resistor does the voltage reduction work with the CUCV glow plug circuit, but only dose it correctly if all 8 plugs are working. Aso these are civilian plugs, and have a wider spade lug, so you'll need to change the glow-plug wire connector if it's not already done.

 

[rsh4364]

Thanks Tim,I run 60gs now.Will be pulling 12v. from neg.on rear batt.Does anyone know where I can buy 8ga.fusible link wire in short lengths?

 

[tim292stro]

Summit should have them, Jegs, pretty much any parts store - this is a service type item.

 

[corelokt]

I ran my glow plugs off one battery and never had an issue starting. I see 40 below at times, or worse. Sure, I plugged it in for those temps, but it started as well as it ever did.

 

[corelokt]

OH, check e bbaayy for military or jeep battery clamps. Have a bolt to attach the cable to the clamp. hany for disconnecting when working on the truck, and very heavy duty.

 

[rsh4364]

Thanks,Im using Knukonceptz terminals #KBT-30n and KBT-30p.

 

[tim292stro]

Just a note from my experience: Those screw to compress type battery cable clamps aren't great. Though it's not as pretty, you'd be better off with a crimp+solder lug. I've had those screw-to clamp type battery cable ends melt the wire insulation due to the bad contact at the terminal.

Crimp type lugs may seem like bad contacts, but the crimp action on the wire creates a metallurgical bond between the wire and lug, adding a little solder afterwards (not so much that it wicks into the jacketed cable) ensures that there is no non-contact area inside the lug.

They are cheaper too

 

[rsh4364]

Thanks Tim,my terminals are brass not lead and are 360 degree compression fittings,a bit pricey but Im tired of hard starts in -0 conditions. They have 3 inputs outputs at 1/0 power cable.