New guy in Ohio that needs help with transport!

Mullaney

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Yep. Not much to that brake system, just a lot of big pieces parts to deal with.
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Yes sir. Big and heavy too.

About a 4ft tire iron will make life easier when you remove and install the tires. The drums & spyder are just plain heavy and it is really easy to scuff up a wheel seal when you put them back on. Not a problem so long as you know it matters... There was a member here that made an attachment for a floor jack attachment to lift the drums. (Picture Below)

1634078240047.png

It has been about 18 months since anything was posted to it, but here is a thread about the "HubHelper".

 

DaneGer21

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Creston, Ohio
When I hopped into the bed this evening to start cleaning I found what seems to be a whole shed of lumber lol So far two buckets loads and I’m half way. Unfortunately about 2/3 of it is rotten. I found a random tail light, a few Chevy truck center caps, an old school A/C compressor, an inter tube, and a couple beers cans. Inside the cab wasn’t to bad. I found about a dozen bags of balancing beads, a few water bottles, some different side mirrors, and four fairly large brake calipers. I messaged the original owner and he said they came off an F450/550(I can’t remember now) and he wanted to do a disc brake conversion.
 

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Mullaney

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
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Charlotte NC
When I hopped into the bed this evening to start cleaning I found what seems to be a whole shed of lumber lol So far two buckets loads and I’m half way. Unfortunately about 2/3 of it is rotten. I found a random tail light, a few Chevy truck center caps, an old school A/C compressor, an inter tube, and a couple beers cans. Inside the cab wasn’t to bad. I found about a dozen bags of balancing beads, a few water bottles, some different side mirrors, and four fairly large brake calipers. I messaged the original owner and he said they came off an F450/550(I can’t remember now) and he wanted to do a disc brake conversion.
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Think about the upgrade to disc brakes long and hard before you make that leap. The way it is now, your truck was engineered by a big company and the military - building all the parts as a group - into a finished truck. The further away from that you get, the more lawyers will want to "pile on" if something ever goes wrong. Most of the components that you can buy off the shelf (web) clearly state OFF-ROAD USE ONLY on them.

More expensive, but the better way to go would be to go shopping at the big MV Auctions and buy three new Rockwell axles. Ready to bolt in place of the axles you already have.

Another idea is to talk to some of the guys who have done some mods to their vehicles. Hank's Deuce is worthy of a Web search or a Steel Soldiers search. Hank'd bobbed Deuce has a Black Rock Fab brake conversion (Disc Brakes). Maybe he can talk to the street-ability of those parts. It may be that hey have a kit that would make a Deuce better than the factory - with support from the manufacturer... Wildwood also has a Disc Brake kit for the Deuce.

Best part about all of this MV world is that you can get what you have operational - and then as the need (desire?) comes along you can upgrade any and everything on your truck.
 

DaneGer21

Member
23
25
13
Location
Creston, Ohio
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Think about the upgrade to disc brakes long and hard before you make that leap. The way it is now, your truck was engineered by a big company and the military - building all the parts as a group - into a finished truck. The further away from that you get, the more lawyers will want to "pile on" if something ever goes wrong. Most of the components that you can buy off the shelf (web) clearly state OFF-ROAD USE ONLY on them.

More expensive, but the better way to go would be to go shopping at the big MV Auctions and buy three new Rockwell axles. Ready to bolt in place of the axles you already have.

Another idea is to talk to some of the guys who have done some mods to their vehicles. Hank's Deuce is worthy of a Web search or a Steel Soldiers search. Hank'd bobbed Deuce has a Black Rock Fab brake conversion (Disc Brakes). Maybe he can talk to the street-ability of those parts. It may be that hey have a kit that would make a Deuce better than the factory - with support from the manufacturer... Wildwood also has a Disc Brake kit for the Deuce.

Best part about all of this MV world is that you can get what you have operational - and then as the need (desire?) comes along you can upgrade any and everything on your truck.
I more than likely would never do the conversion, they were just included and that was his, original owners, plan.

I am a long way from upgrades, let alone running! HAHA
 
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Mullaney

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I more than likely would never do the conversion, they were just included and that was his, original owners, plan.

I am a long way from upgrades, let alone running! HAHA
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I found another thread that just started. This guy mentioned Disc Brakes, so I grabbed a link to point you to it. Still questionable so far as DOT is concerned but definitely worth learning about.


You will get her going... Just don't get too excited trying to get it cranked and end up clogging your injectors and/or pump. The cleanup will be worth the time you spend to avoid trouble.
 

DaneGer21

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Creston, Ohio
After soaking the fuel line fittings for an hour or so I was able to pull the fuel tank out and open it up. First, I was surprised to pull out a Parker fuel pump. Hope it still works. Next was the smell, nasty old fuel, smelled like acetone or a paint thinner. I popped the drain plug out and nothing emptied lol, there was a sticky crust maybe 3/8” to 1/2” thick on the bottom and it was plugging the hole, yikes! I poked it, and then what did come out was almost yellowish. There was maybe only 2-3gallons. Could have been a mixture of water, who knows, but I think I got a head buzz lol.

The prefilter screen in the filler neck is also all crudy and crusty. And the actual pump mounting is pretty crusty.

I flushed it the best I can but how the heck do I clean past the baffles? I’d hate to fill it with and waste a ton of gasoline to clean it. Or what’s the best way to break up that sticky crust?

There is some surface rust inside but not horrible. Nothing seems to actually be flaking off, so to me it is still structurally sound.
 

Mullaney

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After soaking the fuel line fittings for an hour or so I was able to pull the fuel tank out and open it up. First, I was surprised to pull out a Parker fuel pump. Hope it still works. Next was the smell, nasty old fuel, smelled like acetone or a paint thinner. I popped the drain plug out and nothing emptied lol, there was a sticky crust maybe 3/8” to 1/2” thick on the bottom and it was plugging the hole, yikes! I poked it, and then what did come out was almost yellowish. There was maybe only 2-3gallons. Could have been a mixture of water, who knows, but I think I got a head buzz lol.

The prefilter screen in the filler neck is also all crudy and crusty. And the actual pump mounting is pretty crusty.

I flushed it the best I can but how the heck do I clean past the baffles? I’d hate to fill it with and waste a ton of gasoline to clean it. Or what’s the best way to break up that sticky crust?

There is some surface rust inside but not horrible. Nothing seems to actually be flaking off, so to me it is still structurally sound.
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Well that is as good as you can ask for... At least there isn't any rust and that is a big plus. There are chemicals to help decompose the crud. I remember doing a lot of reading about it. Hopefully I can find a thread or some notes. Pressure washer will help knock some of it loose too. Some of it will look like tar too. Gas doesn't seem to cut this stuff...

Maybe the Parker pump (that is the real Deuce factory pump!) is gummed up with the same crud and hopefully you can disassemble it and bring it back to life too.
 

DaneGer21

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Location
Creston, Ohio
Well it seems the fuel pump is junk, unless there are parts somewhere. I disassembled the motor and one of the magnets came out in about four pieces.

If no parts, or can’t be fixed, what’s the next CHEAPEST route? A 24v inline pump?
 

Mullaney

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Well it seems the fuel pump is junk, unless there are parts somewhere. I disassembled the motor and one of the magnets came out in about four pieces.

If no parts, or can’t be fixed, what’s the next CHEAPEST route? A 24v inline pump?
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Well that isn't good (obviously). Carter makes an inline that creates enough pressure. frank8003 is a good source for parts information and at one point in time developed a fuel polishing application for the Deuce. I feel pretty sure he can give you the proper pressure measurements. He may even have an idea where you might find Parker pump parts.

Otherwise, let me dig around and help you get the pressure info out of the TM so you know where that knowledge lives.
 

DaneGer21

Member
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25
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Location
Creston, Ohio
.
Well that isn't good (obviously). Carter makes an inline that creates enough pressure. frank8003 is a good source for parts information and at one point in time developed a fuel polishing application for the Deuce. I feel pretty sure he can give you the proper pressure measurements. He may even have an idea where you might find Parker pump parts.

Otherwise, let me dig around and help you get the pressure info out of the TM so you know where that knowledge lives.
I think I’ve read it somewhere, but don’t quote me, something between 4-7psi. Maybe I’m wrong.
 

Mullaney

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I think I’ve read it somewhere, but don’t quote me, something between 4-7psi. Maybe I’m wrong.
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I am still trying to find the words written in black and white. I don't dig in that book very often. I thought the pump pressure was 25psi but I may be wrong. I was able to find notes talking about rail pressure though... The red arrow is a point after the Booster Pump.

Multi-Fuel, Fuel Pressure Gauge Point AFTER Booster Pump 30-40 Idle, 80psi High Throttle.jpg

Fuel Pressure Gauge Point AFTER Booster Pump 30-40 Idle, 80psi High Throttle

(Still digging for the in-tank fuel pressure number)
 

Mullaney

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I did find a thread that mentions 7 to 10psi from the tank pump.

 

DaneGer21

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Creston, Ohio
I have dug around, multiple phone calls and I finally was able to leave a message for a guy who deals with the Military spec side of things at Parker.

Hopefully I get a call back!
 

Monkeyboyarmy

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Nice buy! I don't know how that one slipped past me but good job. I have some of those parker pumps and I'm probably only an hr away from you. PM me if you want my number.
 

frank8003

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Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
When I hopped into the bed this evening to start cleaning I found what seems to be a whole shed of lumber lol So far two buckets loads and I’m half way. Unfortunately about 2/3 of it is rotten. I found a random tail light, a few Chevy truck center caps, an old school A/C compressor, an inter tube, and a couple beers cans. Inside the cab wasn’t to bad. I found about a dozen bags of balancing beads, a few water bottles, some different side mirrors, and four fairly large brake calipers. I messaged the original owner and he said they came off an F450/550(I can’t remember now) and he wanted to do a disc brake conversion.
the big steel wheel makes a dandy fire pit thingie
 

frank8003

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A parker pump will put out 10PSI to the Primary fuel filter thru to the booster pump suction.
Those Parker pumps I had from eBay came from Bradley fighting vehicles. I should have bought them all.
Since the booster pump suction wants to have 4 to 7psig I just took excess flow and pressure and routed it back into fuel tank thru the arctic heater return boss atop the tank. Works fine even with 90% new motor oil in tank. Recirculate the entire tank in 100 minutes thru a 3 micron filter, engine on or off.
 
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