New guy...should I buy a m1009/8?

[Wally3430]

Hey guys..new here and love the site! Looking into purchasing a m1008/1009 as a third vehicle. I apologize for the following questions, but I have a crud internet connection and I've already spent about 12 hours looking for answers.

1. Should I be concerned with 24V system instead of 12V? What are the downfalls?

2. Can A/C be added simply?

3. How hard is starting in winter?

4. Are parts readily available or do you have to do serious digging?

5. Can these vehicles do 80mph? Is it even advised to run that speed, say for long highway trips? What modifications would be needed to increase mph?

6. Will the Banks turbo kit bolt up directly or are there modifications that need to be made? Is it even worth it to put a turbo on?

7. Will the 6.2L readily accept biodiesel? Any needed modifications for this?

8. There are numerous vehicles for sale on ebay and autotrader..most are exactly the same. What would be a fair price range to pay?

Again, I apologize for all the questions. Answers to these will make or break my decision to make a purchase. Just looking for a rugged hunting/survival vehicle. Thanks for this website! I will continue to search all the posts to gather more info!

 

[doghead]

You will most likely need our help with one, since you didn't know the answers to your questions.
If your Internet connection, is a problem, then do not consider the cucv. You will be on this site all the time, if you buy one.
All those questions can be answered by reading the cucv forum(front to back or visa versa)

Is the Mt state speed limit really 80mph?

Welcome to the site

 

[AJMBLAZER]

1. Only the ignition system is 24v or affected by it. Everything else is standard 1984 era GM 12v. However the starter, alts, and associated parts are NOT commonly stocked NAPA, AutoZone, AdvancedAuto, etc parts.

2. No.

3. Assuming good condition glow plugs, gp relay, starter, and batteries of the proper spec and condition then it won't be any harder starting than any other diesel. Might want to add a block heater if you find one that doesn't come with it. Mine starts up fine in cold weather but doesn't like it. Run the heater for half an hour beforehand and it starts up fine and idles happily.

4. The milspec parts are available from milsurp dealers and some are available from other more common sources but you have to find the part numbers for them to find the parts. The other 90% of the vehicle is standard 1984 GM fullsize truck stuff. Lego's of the fullsize truck world.

5. The pickups - no way. Mine has 38" tires to counteract the gearing and I bet it could go 80 but I have no desire to find out. Rattle, rumble, vibrate, shake, etc. Happiest below 60.
The M1009 Blazers...eh, sorta but again, you're talking about a non-aerodynamic box on wheels here. Keep it 70 or under and it'd be happiest. I've got a civy '89 K5 Blazer with the 6.2L as my DD and I don't like to go 80 with it even with the OD transmission.

6. Yes but you have to get the RIGHT kit. Yes it is worth it if you want the extra power. I don't expect mine to drive like a turbo diesel so I'm perfectly happy with the performance of both of my NA 6.2L diesel trucks. I don't feel the need for the turbo as I don't need the power and don't want the extra clutter in my engine bays.

7. Yes...and no. The military trucks are SUPPOSED to have hardened fuel lines, IP's and such to handle Jet fuel instead of diesel but it wasn't exactly done across the fleet in the 90's. Some got it, some didn't. I've run a little in Big Ugly and it was okay but I wouldn't just dump it in and go. Vehicles need to be set up for running 100% bio diesel, not just dump a tank full in and go.

8. Opinions vary. I paid too much for my pickup and got a screaming deal on my civy K5 but I had to go to Seattle to get it. There's a lot of deals to be had. Don't discount a civilian truck either. I considered M1009's before I got my Blazer but couldn't find a good condition enough M1009. With my K5 it was a matter of getting it, cleaning it out, setting it up how I wanted it, and repairing some stuff. The M1009's I kept finding were all pretty ragged. Your mileage may vary though.

Good luck. These are great trucks but they aren't perfect and they aren't modern vehicles either. They're also 22 years old at the newest (CUCV's) and 18 years old at the newest (civy K5's, Suburbans, and crew cab pickups). However they're great starting points for what you want...you'll just have to supply the time, effort, elbow grease, and $$$ to set them up how you want them.

 

[Recovry4x4]

If you need to do 80, buy a car. The M1009 would be the closest to get you to 80 but I sure as heck wouldn't do it. 24V is more of an asset than a liability. A/C can be added but not simply.

 

[l1a1man]

I bought a M1009 a month ago. Drove a couple, some would shake after 60 the one I got is smooth as glass going 75-80. mine starts good accept I need a new alternator which I am working on. Two new batteries and a new fuel filter. It is a great runner. Am looking into a sweet M1008 now. I have the bug.

 

[Blood_of_Tyrants]

Hey guys..new here and love the site! Looking into purchasing a m1008/1009 as a third vehicle. I apologize for the following questions, but I have a crud internet connection and I've already spent about 12 hours looking for answers.

1. Should I be concerned with 24V system instead of 12V? What are the downfalls?

2. Can A/C be added simply?

3. How hard is starting in winter?

4. Are parts readily available or do you have to do serious digging?

5. Can these vehicles do 80mph? Is it even advised to run that speed, say for long highway trips? What modifications would be needed to increase mph?

6. Will the Banks turbo kit bolt up directly or are there modifications that need to be made? Is it even worth it to put a turbo on?

7. Will the 6.2L readily accept biodiesel? Any needed modifications for this?

8. There are numerous vehicles for sale on ebay and autotrader..most are exactly the same. What would be a fair price range to pay?

Again, I apologize for all the questions. Answers to these will make or break my decision to make a purchase. Just looking for a rugged hunting/survival vehicle. Thanks for this website! I will continue to search all the posts to gather more info!

1. Not really. The only thing that is 24v is the starter.

2. Depends on how handy you are with mechanics. You will have to either relocate the rear battery or convert to a 12 vdc starter with a single battery. The mechanical parts are a direct bolt in. The electrical parts will be up to ou to figure out.

3. Since your winter is in Montana, get a circulation block heater and starting won't be so bad.

4. Any parts store will have parts except for a 24 vdc starter.

5. The M1008, no way. The gearing is too low with 4.56:1 ring and pinion. The M1009 will go 70 or so.

6. Ask others.

7. Any diesel engine will burn biodiesel.

8. Depends on condition. Less than $1000 for a beater with rust and needing repairs, $3000 or more for A1 condition.

 

[Wally3430]

Thanks for the assistance guys. I bought a '05 Jeep Lib CRD a couple years ago and made biodiesel for it. I ended up hating the Jeep, BUT it got me more interested in diesels (which I don't have much experience with). I'm decent with mechanics (former A-10 maintainer), so I just need to get up to speed with diesels--not a problem. I do remember driving a m1008 early in my military career--it ran excellent. I mentioned 80mph as sort of a cushion. I don't want to be riding down the highway at redline trying to keep up with traffic--65 should be more than fine for me. Yep, biodiesel can be run in any diesel engine---the only thing that I know of that would potentially be a problem is the fuel lines. Anywayz, thanks for the help--I'll probably be buying a 1009 in the next few months. My internet crap connection is only crap for the next 3 months while i'm in school, so I'll be able to catch up on this forum after that.

 

[bigtruck]

AJMBLAZER,

What kind of mpgs are you experiencing with your blazer...? I know that 6.2 is certainly not the most powerful diesel around,, but i've heard it puts up some pretty respectable mpgs.... If a guy wasn't goin to pull with it,, and just needed a tuff no-frills 4wd daily driver,,, it may be a good fit... I would ordinarily prefer a 350 small block gasser,,, but if the fuel economy was considerably better with the 6.2 (enough to offset the typically higher diesel prices in midwest), it may change my mind... Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[kassim503]

My 1009 smooths out at about 75, 80+ its smooth as glass But it does take nerves of steel to go in the range past the speedo markings...

Just as AJMBLAZER said, this is a unaerodynamic box thats about 2 feet long, so itll get a little squrrily at higher speed.

I get 18-20 mpg in town, and about 15 on the highway, I usually beat the snot out of mine when its driving, and with those MPG's its a bit cheaper than buying gasoline with a lower mpg gasser truck.

The 6.2 is slow, but from my point of view its reliable as all ****, mated with a T400, its not breaking anytime soon. But people do have mixed views of the 6.2.

If you wish to daily driver it, which I did do for a few months, prepare to install at least a radio (no boom box in the backseat please), stick some cupholders on the front radio bracket, and consider sticking a civvy center console in for a armrest.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

AJMBLAZER,

What kind of mpgs are you experiencing with your blazer...? I know that 6.2 is certainly not the most powerful diesel around,, but i've heard it puts up some pretty respectable mpgs.... If a guy wasn't goin to pull with it,, and just needed a tuff no-frills 4wd daily driver,,, it may be a good fit... I would ordinarily prefer a 350 small block gasser,,, but if the fuel economy was considerably better with the 6.2 (enough to offset the typically higher diesel prices in midwest), it may change my mind... Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks

Well, I ended up with the polar opposite of what I was really looking for when I bought mine. I was expecting 29's and 3.08 gears for mileage and got 3.73 gears and the towing package. My Blazer was setup as a tug boat. Factory hitch, big rear brakes, 3.73 gears, 29" tires (thing must have been SLOOOOOOW from the factory but could lug 5-6000lbs around all day long), factory 7 pin and 4 pin trailer hookups and factory wired for a brake controller. I know going across from Seattle to Michigan I averaged 15mpg at least and the thing needed some work and I wasn't going slow. I'm doing a bit more than that now but not much, even with bigger tires to counter act the gearing. Still, every Blazer I've ever owned with a 350 was lucky to see 13mpg around town. This gets 15mpg without me even trying to drive nice.